adjustable lifters??
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 83
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
1970 ford f100 300 I6
Sorry couldn't put text in the same box as picture. I have a loud ticking noise. I already checked the oil pressure and was wondering if the lifters needed to be tighten. I read several threads on how to I'm just not sure which way to do it. The motor runs alright for a 6 and I plan on rebuilding engine in the near future. Just wanted to try the least expensive fix first. I know it can be other issues causing the ticking just want to check the lifters first. ANY ADVICE? Quick way to do it? I know you have to follow the firing order.
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Jim
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I check my manual hmm it says for ford I-6 the exh. & intake valve gaps .018 with a feeler gauge. Most are set as gap for Hot= warm up motor. Me, I adjust while motor is running by using a .018 feeler gauge between valve stem and the rocker only for the mechanical lifters. Once you insert the feeler ga. it will stop making noise. If you can't adjust them while motor is running remove all spark plugs put pistons at top of cylinder both valves should be closed then check valve gap & adjust as needed. Start with the front & work back till done....orich
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
thanks
Still have a question I got the TDC on the first cylinder, I check gap exhaust first then intake, I will then have to rotate crank to get the next cylinder on TDC? I went with the firing order and now the truck won't start. I seems like the valves are too tight?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
You shouldn't have a gap with hydraulic lifters. Depending on what year that engine is, it could be adjustable or the nuts just get tightened down to the stop.
Easy trick on the adjustable ones- With both valves closed, spin the pushrods. If they spin with little resistance, then it's too loose. If they are very hard to spin, it's too tight. Adjust until you feel a bit of resistance while spinning the pushrod. This gets you as much into the ballpark as a non-race engine needs to be. It'll still be a hair on the loose side, but should be quiet, and you don't want it too tight or it'll burn a valve.
Easy trick on the adjustable ones- With both valves closed, spin the pushrods. If they spin with little resistance, then it's too loose. If they are very hard to spin, it's too tight. Adjust until you feel a bit of resistance while spinning the pushrod. This gets you as much into the ballpark as a non-race engine needs to be. It'll still be a hair on the loose side, but should be quiet, and you don't want it too tight or it'll burn a valve.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
I did that way the first time. When I tried to start truck it didn't start and seems like it was hard to turn over crank. So I adjusted them with a feeler gauge and truck still wont start. I know the firing order but it appears the plug wires are not right? It even has the numbers on the dist. cap so it wouldn't seem so hard to put the wiring back correctly. The motor is a 300 out of a 1970 ford? I'm not sure if that's the right motor, the more I work on the truck the more I find different ? Still searching for the vin numbers on the frame. The door vin is not a ford vin so I'm getting a worried.
The vales appear real loose now but the truck is backfiring and not starting. Seems like the plugs wires are not on right. Is there something I'm missing here?
Thanks
Jim
The vales appear real loose now but the truck is backfiring and not starting. Seems like the plugs wires are not on right. Is there something I'm missing here?
Thanks
Jim
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Pull the number one plug, and turn the engine over until you get compression pressure at the plug hole. Turn the engine until the #1 piston is at the top, and wherever the distributor rotor is pointing is #1. From there, the firing order is clockwise 1-5-3-6-2-4.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 83
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
Thanks for the replies, still haven't got a good answer on adjusting the lifters. According to the vin, the motor is a 300 I6 and appears to be unopened since 1970. I tried to adjust with 17ft torque ,however all that did was compress my valve down towards the heads. I tried the .018 method and they appear way too loose. I guess I try the running motor and tighting until they don't make noise. All that can happen is bending a few valves. 
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Don't do it with the engine running, do it with the engine off. When both valves for that cylinder are closed, tighten the rockers until the pushrods drag when turning. Simple and effective.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Coast, Calif.
Thanks for the help Ford Six.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: In Hastings Delton area
You can adjust the valve lash on these engine with the engine running . get the engine warmed up so idle is low 600 to 650 rpm back off rocker nut till you here it rattle then turn nut down 1 to 1 and a quarter turns repeat this on all rockers . small block chevys and Fords you do the same. If you have rockers tightened down too tight they will cause engine to start hard or miss,Weather your adjusting solid or hydrulic lifters you always do your final adjustments with engine warmed up
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