Runs like it should.

Turn the Key ON, the pump primes for 2-4 seconds, stops, a "CLICK" from the relay, and that's it; Unless you actually start the truck.

 

*UPDATE*

I took my dad out to the truck (Very good mechanic with carbs, etc) and let him listen, smell, etc..

He put his hand over the exhaust tip (Didn't seal it off) and he pulled his hand back BLACK...Looked like a diesel's soot all over it.

That was after I had a problem starting it (Almost sounded like a fuel issue, either too Rich or Lean). Finally started on the 4th time cranking it over, it stuttered about 30 seconds and then the smoking stopped.

4-5 minutes later, only issue is a slightly high Idle (Before my tach quit a while back, was 900-1,000 rpm). So that's good. Pretty much back on baseline.

Took it for a short drive (About 1 mile round trip) and it ran GREAT.

First 300' was sorta rough, almost like it was flooding, I mashed the fuel pedal, the stutter went away and the "Power" of the I6 kicked in.

The more I drove it on the trip, the better it ran.


One thing I DID notice, was it only slightly raises the RPM when I unhook the FPR. No smoking, etc...Just a Vacuum leak (The line to the Intake has GOOD suction) and no push or suction on the FPR though..

So could this FPR be getting tempermental? If it's the OEM one, it's 207,500 miles old.

I'm literally stumped. Only thing that isn't "Right" is the no code retrieval issue.

 

Here's some pics of things, on the day the Intake came off.











Yep...I think it had an issue.


Annnnd the slight exhaust leak (Would also account for the increased Idle. Since it's introducing fresh air upstream of the O2 Sensor.

 

I'm not sure what circuit it protects, etc...

But fuse "B" (20amp) was blown on my truck.


It is now replaced.

And the relay labeled "PCM Power Relay" was slightly warm in my truck after it was started, etc... Could this be the relay wearing out?

 

Did you ever pull your ECM out of the truck yet? The issues you're having and the no code retrieval is telltale of the capacitor leakage problem.

 

No, it's pouring the rain here...As it has pretty much every day for the past week.

 

So here's an update of sorts.

Since the posting of this thread, the truck has taken a complete 180* turn.

Previously it was literally spewing the unburnt fuel straightout the tailpipe (In the video).. 2 trips to town (11 miles one way) was almost 1/4 tank of fuel.

Now, it's running a lot better with an albeit slightly high Idle. (I have 2 known vacuum leaks, so it's understood). A trip from town to the house here (About 14 miles) and the gas hand has barely moved (I know it isn't a truly accurate way to count things, but compared to 3 days ago, a BIG difference).

Haven't tried pulling codes, so no idea there.

 

I would definitely pull your computer and check it, something that goes from horrible to fine at the blink of an eye is usually an electrical control problem.

 

Yep a bad leaking capacitor will be intermittant and drive you nuts trying to figure the problem out till it hard faults.

I have a 93 Explorer that ran rich, though the MAF was the cause(disconnected it and ran better), found out after swapping with a friend it wasn't the MAF. It was the ECU with bad capacitors causing the problem. Simple fix for me to repair the ECU, but if you have another ECU, try it in place of the orginal.

 

Can I simply buy replacement capacitors at my local radioshack (Meeting the OEM version specs) and just solder them in?

I honestly don't have $50+ to go toss on a JY computer and have the possibility of it doing the same thing 50 miles down the road.

 

Yes, you can get the capacitors from radio shack(if they still have them at the stores). You can get the 25V or 50V ratings as the voltages will be under 16V. But the Uf ratings need to be the same. I got my caps from a battery backup that had a bad battery in it. Car radios are also another source(as long as they are not leaking) of capacitors.

Most likely the acid that leaked out of them has dammaged the PCboard which will make it harder to repair. If your lucky and just clean off the gunk and resolder them back in. I use starting fluid or carb cleaner to wash off the acid and make sure to use rosin core solder and some proper solder flux (no acid types at all!).
To repair the munged up board traces, use some fine wire and trace out the bad traces and solder to a good point and then for the other side.

As a 20+ year electronics tech, it takes me less than 10 min to replace the 3 usual bad caps I find in these ECU's and fix bad traces. Just take your time doing it is the best way.

 

Here's the Radio Shack repair.
IIRC it was about $ 4.00 in parts and a little time.

Click here :A9x ECM's (and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age

Good luck,

Bob

 

Thanks for the help guys! The info is MUCH appreciated.

If I pull the ECM and I have failing capacitors, etc, I'll post pics, and stuff here as a short "How to".