Hey guys I am having a HUGE problem with my 2000 f150 4.2l V6


This is the story " and forgive me because it IS a long one so PLEASE bear with me"

This is my "show" truck and has lods of body and suspension mods done but ZERO engine work done to it

The truck sat for roughly 5 years without being drive but WAS started from time to time and was always idleing/running fine, Then one day I could not get the truck to stay running, It would crank and kick over but then idle HORRIBLY and then just die out on me

I have an external fuel cell in the truck with an edelbrock external fuel pump and a edelbrock external fuel filter, So far this is what I have replaced...
1) fuel pressure regulator "this was JUST changed today"
2) Idle air control valve
3) new spark plugs
4) spark plug wires
5) new ignition coil
6) I am not exactly sure what this piece is called since it has been AGES since I changed it but it is mounted right next to the brake booster"if looking at the brake booster from the front bumper it is on the left side "it has a vacuum line dunning in to it, as well as what looks like 2 fuel lines, it is all plastic and the top of it spins but does not come off it also has a molex plug that connects to it as well "If I can find a picture or take on of it I will make sure to post it to help with ID
7) Ran ALL new fuel lines up to where they connect to the fuel rail.
8) Also replaced EVERY vacuum line thinking possibly a vac line go a small hole in it
Ok so let me now go into depth about the situation as best as I can...
The truck WILL crank and will "SOMEWHAT" start/idle HOWEVER thats is it, It idles VERY rough, to the point that the ENTIRE truck shakes violently, If I try to give it ANY type of throttle the truck will idle very badly and then just DIE out on me

Also if this helps I checked for codes and I get NOTHING other than the fuel level sender since I am not using one due to the custom 30 gallon fuel cell

If you guys need ANY more info I will try and give you AS MUCH info as I possibly can, I am very mechanically inclined as I have been working on cars for the last 13 years but I gotta tell you this one has me stumped, Luckily my dad has a 99 f150 with the same 4.2l motor so I have also been trying different parts from his truck that runs perfectly fine and NOTHING seems to help

I always put premium in the truck "mainly because that is waht my other car takes and its just force of habit

I am in DIRE need of help/suggestions to get this damned thing up and running so I can use it as my daily driver once again as I absolutely LOVE this truck and have NEVER had a single problem...that is until this started

I am literally BEGIN you guys for your help as I am sure that THIS forum just like so many others is FULL of awesome information

Please post in this thread,PM me OR Email me at my personal email at tinctorus@aol.com

Also I live in sought florida and do car audio installations for a living for the last 12 years so anyone that is local and can come help me out I will do my best work to you truck to get your f150 JAMMIN and sounded UBER clean and clear

Again guys I really am at wits and and DEESPERATLY need help and am will to help out whomever solves the problem to the best of my ability

Thanks in advance
Mike G

 

First thing I am wondering about is your after market fuel system.
What pressure does your fuel system put to the fuel regulator?
Is it a feed/return 2 pipe high pressure system as the stock system was.
Also what monitors are not reset in the PCM program.
With the fuel system you have, your EVAP monitor will never reset but that won't cause your issue.
By not finding the original problem and just shotgunnning replacement parts, you may have introduced two or more additional problems causing you confusion.
Also look at the EGR hose routing. If you made a mistake and now the EGR is held open full time; that's a BIG no/no for starting idle and running.
Best I can do for you until you get a lead on it.

 

well take a look at the othere truck look at all the vac line one could have broken also check the pcv hose and the freash air hose going to the intake sounds like a good vac leak also make sure none of the sensors wire have been eaten by criters the love hose and rubber stuff ill try and see if i can give u more help also check the evap canster under the truck bed could have good crack in sucken air but you would have a code for that

 

If this truck sat for 5 years and still has 5 year old gasoline in it, then that is your problem.
The "shelf life" of typical gasoline is only a few months before it starts to gum up your fuel system.
Also, running Premium fuel is a waste of money and does NOTHING for your truck/engine.
If you are going to have this truck without running it enough to keep fresh fuel in it, then use Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer, but use the Marine formula/grade Sta-Bil only, NOT the normal 'red' Sta-Bil.

 

Yes it does have the return line just as the stock setup had, I had the exact same pump in the truck for 2 years and it always ran fine...However one day that pump died so I bought a replacement that was exactly the same as the pump that burned out, I am not using the stock fuel level sender as I switched it out when I switched to the aluminum fuel cell, But as before that was like that for 2+ years and always worked perfectly fine

When I hook up my code reader the only code I get is for an exhaust system function since I removed that black canister that is in the exhaust ssytem YEARS before I even swapped fuel cell's
As far as vacuum line routing my dad also has a 2000 wih the 4.2 and I went over every square inch of his vacuum line setup to make sure I didnt place a vac line in a wrong spot and everything is connected exactly where it should be...

Thats why I am so stumped, I have bought a few replacement parts as I noted, However I have also just tried swapping parts with my dads truck to see if one certain part could be the problem and then I could just go and buy that particular part, However NOTHING I have switched has done ANYTHING, I even tried swapping PCM's thinking maybe it wasnt sending a proper injector pulse signal but nothing changed with that either...

I am TRULY stumped here guys as for the longest time the truck ran just as good as can be and then one day BOOOM nothing... " I mean it is a ford and I am a die hard ford truck fan if for no other reason that there reliability"

 

I did check all of my vacuum lines, I pulled them ALL out one by one and even pressure tested them with a small air pump with the vac line submerged in a container of water to see if a pin hole leak was possible but ALL of them check out perfectly fine...

I am by no means a dummy or clueless when it comes to working on cars and diagnosing problems, But I gotta say THIS PROBLEM has me STUMPED

Do you think a bad PCV valve would cause this???

I mean it WILL crank and start but sputter for a few seconds and then BOOOM dead

 

Thought of that as well, I drained the ENTIRE fuel system "everything from the tank to getting ANY left over gas in the fuel rail out, I also took out all of my injectors and soaked them in a cleaner that I had

At this point the only I think I can do to the truck is soak it in gasoline and set it on fire

 

Here is some pictures of the truck just in case anyone happens to be interested...











It's for sale as well FYI

 

Anyone else with any helpful advice??

So far I have tried everything you guys have suggested as I am NOT opposed to trying ANYTHING at this point, But as usual I got nowhere and the truck is still just sitting in the drive way....I MISS DRIVING THE STUPID TRUCK!!!!

 

Since it's your baby, your the go-to guy (expert) when anything goes wrong now, just like with an engine swap.
What this means is you have to learn about how the system works, good enough to help yourself when anything goes wrong.
First, if the engine fires at all, there is ignition even if it may not be good..
It needs fuel at the same time in the correct amount.
Assume the ignition is ok and go with fuel.
Test fuel pressure at the rails so you know what you have to begin with.
It should be about 35 to 40 psi +/-.
When you turn on the ignition to RUN, it should run the fuel pump for about 1 second and stop.
As you begin to crank, the Crank Sensor provides a signal to the PCM and turns the pump back on full time.
At the same time, the cam position sensor "rotates (v6)" as a reference to the PCM for fuel injection timing, seperately from ignition.
Your job is to find the missing action based on how the system works and not guess at anything.
Hint; getting upset about it is really you getting angry at yourself for not being able to get to an easy solution.
This dosn't sound like a lot of help but it really is.
Trick is geting past yourself.
Back in the mid 90s, I converted an old 1973 302 v8 to modern fuel injection of that period, as one of the early ones to do this. The car is the little 1973 Mercury Comet GT.
This is an example of having to be your own expert because no one else can help if anything goes wrong.
Good luck and stay cool.

 

that truck is getting back at you for painting it flat black...

 

that was loads of help.....*******

 

I think you need another set of talented eyes to check everything , and start with the basics like fuel pressure psi and compression and such. There is probably something simple you are missing. I would think starting with a stock fuel system on the 4.2 would be square 1 also.

 

Considering all the stuff you've already swapped out and the amount of time the truck sits up without running I'm guessing the injectors(who knows how many) are gummed up with varnish. This happens more frequently on carb engines(lawnmowers, weedwackers, outboard motors, motorcycles). The engine sits up long enough for the fuel to evaporate and leave behind varnish which clogs up the moving parts(pintles and float valve). Lucas in the gas tank or high pressure injector cleaner at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. If you have headers and you can get the engine to run you can tell which cylinders are firing by dripping water from a rag onto each individual header pipe one at a time. The ones that sizzle are firing and the ones that don't are dead. The shadetree mechanic isn't dead yet.