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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #1  
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From: Small acerage in Nebraska
Bad Idle problem

Here goes. I was idleing through an alley tonight and stalled, Nothing new in a manual trans vehichal, It started back up but would'nt rev, bogged and was barely running. I shut it down could smell raw/rich exhaust (windows were down) tried to restart and it did the same thing again. Put the skinny pedal to the floor and cranked it again, it sputtered a little and then fired and ran fine. Engine was fully warmed up and the check engine light never came on. Had some troubles when idleing last week while airing up some tires, had the kid jump in and hold the rpms at 2k, and it would just sputter and die. I will try to get the codes after work tommorow, I've been meaning to reset now that the VSS function is working again.
Any ideas? Not the fuel pump cause of the "flooded" smell, maybe the TFI module? Should be an error code for that.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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The fuel odor may indicate a failed or failing FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) If you remove the vacuum line to it and the barb is wet with fuel, its time to replace it.

There are other possible culprits but the raw fuel odor along with the idle/stall issues make me lean towards checking the FPR first.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 12:16 AM
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Almost didn't make it home tonight, bronc just wouldn't stay running at stoplights. I did eventually make it home under it's own power. Let it sit awhile and it would fire right up! Checked the regulator, it's functioning fine. 70+ psi and steady when running.
Checked the error codes, nothing in the first set and one for EGR low voltage. (continuous)
Went ahead and put a different TFI module on the dizzy. So far it's working fine now! Idled fine for at least 1/2 hour, not even a sputter. Will be driving it to work tommorow. We'll see if that was the prob for sure.
So far it's good.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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FYI, 70+ seems a little high. See the chart at the bottom of this page.
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 05:50 PM
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Don't run out and buy a new TFI module yet! It's back to doing it again!
Run the codes again and only one was 87. Will have to chect wiring and relay, fuel pump is not that old. It usually fires back up after waiting 10 minuets or so.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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70 PSI is off the chart for fuel pressure! 35-45 PSI is where it should be.

Code 87 is best troubleshot by checking the resistance of the wire that runs between the fuel pump relay and pin 22 of the ECM. It HAS to be less than 5 ohms. The wire cannot be shorted to positive or negative (ground) voltage.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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From: Small acerage in Nebraska
Of course now that I'm carrying around test equipment, it won't act up:S
I will check the resistance on that wire soon, am also carrying a test light, fuel pressure gauge, DVM,and code reader. Now if acts up again I can do some measurements and maybe figure out exactly what is going on.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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Still carrying the test equipment and still have not had another problem! I've run from 3/4 tank to almost empty several times now. As long as it gets me the 25 miles to work and then home! Hope to have some time and $$ to work on it this weekend.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 01:20 AM
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You scared it into behaving itself with the test gear in the cabin with you. Try pretending to put all the test stuff back in the garage, then sneak it all back into the truck on an unmarked bag. You might just fool it into screwing up again!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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ECT or maybe MAP sensor come to mind.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:51 PM
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Replacing components without pulling Codes though is a waste of time and money.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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It acted up again the other day and I was able to run some checks. Fuel pressure holds steady at 65psi, then will drop to about 5psi, RPMs start to fall soon after. Checked the voltages at the relay, they hold steady at all 4 connections so the relay isn't opening to shut the pump off. Haven't gone under to check at the pump yet. It died several times for me and fired right back up each time. It seems to do it only when fully warmed up and with a small load on the engine (was running the onboard air compressor) and after it goes to the low idle.
It still runs down the highway and MM roads, rarely misses a beat, it just hates to sit still I guess.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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From: Small acerage in Nebraska
I though I'd update everyone about this issue.
Was running low on petro on way home today so stopped at the nearest staion and put about 10 gal in the tank, usual 89 10% ethanol blend because it's less expensive, then proceeded to run some errands around town. Including a stop at Ford dealership to ask some Q's.
Picked up a buddy from his work (deisel mech) then run around town some more. Bronco was running really bad, could'nt even take foot off the skinny pedal and it would die and was harder then usual to start.
Stopped at auto parts store and swapped the fuel relay, still doing it, give that back and changed the filter, still there. (it needed that anyhow)
Drove it home, let it cool off fro 30 mins or so then headed to one of my regular gas stations, put $40 in the tank and it has run just fine from that point till now, not even a stumble or a sputter!
Guessing I need to be more picky about where I purchase my fuel from now on!
With the 100* heat we had today I was getting a vapor lock situation! Need to research how to insulate the fuel lines near the engine to adress this problem.
we'll have to see if this cures most of the problems.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 05:07 AM
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One station in town sell gas with no ethanol. The price is about 10% more but so is the mpg. Anything runs much better on it especially if it is not run often.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 07:12 AM
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I agree. Conoco stations sell non watered down gas here. Better mileage and power is the payoff.
I can really tell the difference in the Harley.
 
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