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Overdrive off or on?

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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #16  
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hairyboxnoogle
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IP= injector pump. Sucking air = air getting into the fuel pre- injector pump. zero idea how fast km are. Can you go 120km? iirc thats about 70
 
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 01:11 PM
  #17  
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From: Atlantic Canada
100km= 60miles

On the highway I do about 55 miles (90km).
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #18  
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UPDATE

So, I thought I would give an update on my 1994 7.3 Bus. Upon repeated advice I have indeed stopped taking the vehicle out of overdrive.

However, in the meantime things have gone from bad to worse for my bus. I was getting by with resetting the computer each time the O/D light started flashing and wiling to continue that process until I could get better insight. But, half way through my recent trip (I tour as a musician full time) the bus started a whole new thing it has never done before which one mechanic called "cycling". Basically what happens is while driving on the highway or in the city, for no apparent reason, the engine starts revving and it sounds like the transmission is searching for a different gear. It slams, bangs, revs and fights to move anywhere. Worse, is that in city driving the bus pretty much has a complete meltdown between 1-3 gear, searching, slipping and acting like the transmission is going explode right out from under me. It's not only terrifying but also leaving a thousand cars honking at me as I struggle to make it from one gear to the next.

I've seen 5 transmission shops as well as assorted mechanics in the past three days and being that I'm never in one town long enough to get anything constructive done it looks like the bus will be making it's final voyage this weekend. Some of the tranny experts tell me it sounds electrical, others say I need a new tranny, but most of them just tell me to get rid of the vehicle and save myself the grief. 1994s were apparently famous for electric and transmission (at least in Canada) and i've heard enough horror stories of guys spending thousands and thousands of dollars trying to find the problem.

WORSE, is that my computer has stopped communicating. So the 5 scanners (yes FORDF250HDXLT they are comparable to OBD1 scanners) that have scanned my vechile this week have not been even been able to get a code. Meanwhile my O/D light is flashing and the whole truck is acting like it wants to commit suicide.

So with NO CODES, and no other options I am prepared to possibly breakdown on the 1500km trip I have ahead of me this week because I have to get home somehow. Even if I make it home this will be the end of my life with any vehicle older than 2004. I had a Windstar prior to this and didn't spend more than $1500 in 4 years on it (which I understand isn't comparable to a 7.3). So far I've spent well over $5000 in less than 8 months on this hunk of junk and have had nothing but problems.

If I do make it back home I will part out this bus and recoup whatever I can before purchasing a more reliable modern Ford van, and converting into a camper style rig for travelling.

Thank you to everyone for your help, you have been great!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #19  
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Hey, just an update. I did purchase this Equis 3145 Ford Digital Reader as you recommended. I opened it today and first thing I noticed in the compatibility section is that it is NOT compatible with 7.3L Diesels from 1994. So this reader is actually not capable of working with my vehicle.
So... if anyone want to buy an Equis Ford Reader for half price, I've got one sitting here with your name on it

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
clemensfield i recall you asking before.as before im going to recommend the same thing;
forget about paying others to trace it out.it's time (well past actually) to get your hands dirty.
however.since that didn't work.forget that too.let's just do it together via baby steps.

1.buy this:
Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader : Amazon.com : Automotive

report back once step 1 is completed.
fear not.i assure you,this wont hurt at all.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 07:01 PM
  #20  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
this is true.it's not compatable with a diesel engine in 1994.
in '94 there were 3 diesel options.
1.n/a idi which has no computer so therefore no codes to be scanned.
2.turbo idi which also has no computer so therfore no codes either.
3.the di 7.3l diesel (mostly known as the power stroke) which is computer controlled,however those are odb2.

your e40d's ecm is completely independent from the engine,and it does take a obd1 code scanner.
you can find the port where it plugs in under your hood.look up by the drivers side hood hinge and you'll see the wire clips.pull down and out from the plastic clip and that code scanner will plug right in.follow the instructions provided with the booklet and post up your codes.
(i am assuming it's in the same location as the trucks though,and you know what you get when you do this lol so you may need to look around or google the info if you don't see the plug right up there.)
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #21  
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Man that sucks, i missed your update on the 5th. Sounds like you need a big glass of ZF-5 swap... Im with you man i hate electrical stuff, and ill be honest to me it sounds electrical. Best of luck
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #22  
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From: Atlantic Canada
Very interesteting this is. Because I was under the impression that I have a 1994 7.3 IDI International engine. But you are saying that this engine has no computer? Well, mine does have a computer from what I understand so this is confusing.

But that aside, you are saying the equis reader I bought is still of some use to me? I do have a place to plug in the scanner where you described. Is this the e40d ECM? I thought the solenoid pack was the computer for the transmission, wow I don't know jack ****.

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
this is true.it's not compatable with a diesel engine in 1994.
in '94 there were 3 diesel options.
1.n/a idi which has no computer so therefore no codes to be scanned.
2.turbo idi which also has no computer so therfore no codes either.
3.the di 7.3l diesel (mostly known as the power stroke) which is computer controlled,however those are odb2.

your e40d's ecm is completely independent from the engine,and it does take a obd1 code scanner.
you can find the port where it plugs in under your hood.look up by the drivers side hood hinge and you'll see the wire clips.pull down and out from the plastic clip and that code scanner will plug right in.follow the instructions provided with the booklet and post up your codes.
(i am assuming it's in the same location as the trucks though,and you know what you get when you do this lol so you may need to look around or google the info if you don't see the plug right up there.)
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 07:47 PM
  #23  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
it's not really as bad as it seems (really it isn't! there is only so much electrical to these trans and it is pretty basic setup) you just need a little scanner and some patience.

"Basically what happens is while driving on the highway or in the city, for no apparent reason, the engine starts revving and it sounds like the transmission is searching for a different gear. It slams, bangs, revs and fights to move anywhere. Worse, is that in city driving the bus pretty much has a complete meltdown between 1-3 gear, searching, slipping and acting like the transmission is going explode right out from under me. It's not only terrifying but also leaving a thousand cars honking at me as I struggle to make it from one gear to the next. "


that there sounds as if the MLPS is failing (or the connection is dirty.)
this sensor is located on the drivers side of the trans and a very common symptom of it failing (or in need of cleaning at the connector) is just as you describe;
an engine that revs high all the sudden as the trans appears to have slipped into neutral all the sudden.the very bad part is when it tries to find the correct gear again as you found out,it's sometimes wrong and bangs violently into gear again and sounds god awful.
what you want to do ideally whenever this happens is to slide the shift lever into N asap! then coast to the side of the road to avoid trans damage then shift back to D once your stopped and take her real easy (with hand on shift lever ready to shift into N) home where you can inspect the MLPS.

in 1995 they updated this connector.ford also revised it and updated the new MLPS for the older pre '95's to accept this newer updated style plug.
it is a pita,but you need to re-pin the connector then from then on,the newer style mlps will plug right in.
if you need help you may just want to pay someone to handle it for you.no offense but you sound as if someone who lacks the patience for this.i did it without bringing the harness down around.this was major mistake and made the job way harder than it had to be though.if i had to do it again,i would have just unplugged the solenoid pack and brought the harness right down where it would be so easy to work on.i tried taking a short cut that saved 2-3 mins,all to cost me a needless hassle and 20 extra minutes haha!

i didn't get the code for the MLPS when mine failed.so you may or may not,but based on your description,that's all it sounds like it is there.it may or may not be your only issue though,hence the code scanner is always a very wise investment anyway.

your idi engine (and all of them before it from '83 to '94) are all completely mechanical without an electrical computer and sensors to feed it info.
the only electronically controlled item in your idi bus is it's auto E40D trans (but it's truly not such an evil thing.it's really not,though it can seem like it i know lol.) nothing about it's ecm reads nor sends info to alter the engines operation.
all the idi has are a few solenoids on the ip to have it do a few very basic functions.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #24  
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clemensfield
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From: Atlantic Canada
Patience isn't really the problem here (even if I do have very little, which yes you caught on to) the main problem for me is that I just have so little mechanical knowledge. I'm a musician, so the situation is stressful because:

#1 I need a vehicle that is reliable as I perform 100 shows a year in Canada, which means big country, small population= logging lots of miles (kms).

#2 I'm constantly travelling so it's hard to find a shop that isn't booked up and it means I keep going to different mechanics each time.

I do have an appointment tomorrow morning with McNichols Transmission in Yarmouth, NS. Last month they replaced my solenoid pack, gave me an oil change, transmission oil flush, and replaced the transmission filter, as well as add some pricey additives.

Im running the most expensive engine oil, trans oil, and coolant that money can buy. The bus worked amazing for the first 3 days that I had it back. Then on one 4 hour highway venture, ALL of my problems came back immediately, and all at once.

Im going to have them address the things you mentioned as you seem to know the most about these things. I'm willing to keep spending a bit more money to try and solve this riddle. The vehicle has a great body, 4 brand new tires, and 106,000 miles on the 7.3 International. These are my reasons for wanting to get this thing sorted out. I wish I could replace the transmission with a manual one but that's probably out of my price range.

If there was a way I could replace all the electrical stuff with an aftermarket kit or something I would also try that.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #25  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
some people do just that.they make a devoted trans controller complete with new wiring harness and all.it cleans up the dated system and makes it real nice.
i know the oem setup now really good so if (when i should say lol) issues come up,i can usually narrow it down and fix it within the hour.
The US Shift Transmission Control System

the problem is,the solenoid pack still gets dirty and or solenoids fail or the mlps fails,it's still going to do the same things.the ecm (oem or aftermarket) needs clean signals.
that there will clean up some things and get you a new harness which many of these trucks could probably stand lol and get you finer adjustments but when a sensor fails or a wire connector gets wet and corrodes it's going to frig up the trans operation just the same and require diagnosing the issue still.
for example should you find out the mlps is bad,that controller and new harness wouldn't work any better with the failed sensor than it does with your oem setup.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:49 PM
  #26  
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From: Atlantic Canada
Diagnosis came back today:
So far we know that the radiator is leaking considerably, and the the scanner you suggested from amazon didn't work, it just came up all zeros. They put another scanner on it and got the VSS code.

This is about the 10th time that the VSS code has showed up and the speed sensor has been replaced twice in the last 4 years. The wiring around it has all been repaired and soldered multiple times.

So... I won't be replacing it again. It's ridiculous.

Either the leaky radiator is throwing my trans out of whack (possible) or I could potentially replace the wiring harness.


Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
some people do just that.they make a devoted trans controller complete with new wiring harness and all.it cleans up the dated system and makes it real nice.
i know the oem setup now really good so if (when i should say lol) issues come up,i can usually narrow it down and fix it within the hour.
The US Shift Transmission Control System

the problem is,the solenoid pack still gets dirty and or solenoids fail or the mlps fails,it's still going to do the same things.the ecm (oem or aftermarket) needs clean signals.
that there will clean up some things and get you a new harness which many of these trucks could probably stand lol and get you finer adjustments but when a sensor fails or a wire connector gets wet and corrodes it's going to frig up the trans operation just the same and require diagnosing the issue still.
for example should you find out the mlps is bad,that controller and new harness wouldn't work any better with the failed sensor than it does with your oem setup.
 
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