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I did a BPD external oil cooler earlier this year and having that filter moved to an easy to access position got me to thinking. Has anybody come up with a way to move the under the truck fuel filter to a better location and, hopefully, a better method such that there's no loss of fuel? I'm about to start changing my own oil now that I can do it at home without fear of the wrath of wife. I'd like to change out the fuel filters at the same time and not cause an oil slick with that either.
132 views and no clues...so, lets revise this...is it possible to even do this? Ever heard of anybody doing anything like this? You'd think somebody would have come up with a way to move that filter if it was easy.
This was brought up once not too long ago and the idea didn't get any traction. While I am sure it is possible I doubt it would be worth the effort as you would have to relocate the entire HFCM and all associated lines and wiring harness. I just use a 5 gallon bucket and a bunch of rags to clean up the frame rail and such.
Has anybody come up with a way to move the under the truck fuel filter to a better location and, hopefully, a better method such that there's no loss of fuel? I'd like to change out the fuel filters at the same time and not cause an oil slick with that either.
It would be a major undertaking to relocate the HFCM!
But if you do it right, you can change your filter with very little fuel mess.
Wait until your fuel level is below half tank, and park your truck facing slightly downhill. This will help let all the fuel drain out of the filter housing when you remove the water separator drain screw.
When you remove the drain screw, have a small plastic container under it. I use a small tub like a sour cream container which can be squeezed in between the framerail and the driveshaft to catch all the fuel draining out.
Then when you remove the filter cover, just have a couple rags tucked in under it to catch the small amount of fuel that will still drip out, and change your filter.
This is the way I do it and usually I don't have any fuel ending up on the ground!!!
It would be a major undertaking to relocate the HFCM!
But if you do it right, you can change your filter with very little fuel mess.
Before you do your filter change, get the upgraded drain plug which will make it easier to remove and eliminate the chance of stripping the plug!
Here it is: Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module Drain Plug
Wait until your fuel level is below half tank, and park your truck facing slightly downhill. This will help let all the fuel drain out of the filter housing when you remove the water separator drain screw.
When you remove the drain screw, have a small plastic container under it. I use a small tub like a sour cream container which can be squeezed in between the framerail and the driveshaft to catch all the fuel draining out.
Then when you remove the filter cover, just have a couple rags tucked in under it to catch the small amount of fuel that will still drip out, and change your filter.
This is the way I do it and usually I don't have any fuel ending up on the ground!!!
Well I had to figure that as much as that filter change gets discussed, if there was a way to move it, it would be the most common mod done. I thought that there might be a way to use one of the pre-pump systems commonly used when people go to bigger injectors, as the only pump for the stock set up. Apparently that's either too expensive, not necessary to most people, or just not possible.
This was brought up once not too long ago and the idea didn't get any traction. While I am sure it is possible I doubt it would be worth the effort as you would have to relocate the entire HFCM and all associated lines and wiring harness. I just use a 5 gallon bucket and a bunch of rags to clean up the frame rail and such.
I never considered moving HFCM. Iwas thinking more like a bypass type filter, where a tube was used to connect where the inflow fitting of the filter to the outflow fitting for same. Then place a filter somewhere else (more accessible, and hopefully with shut offs before and after the filter, so as to make filter change a standup, dry job. My idea may be ridiculous, and I suspect I'm about to find out why....ready, aim...
You want the truck facing or pointing uphill and not downhill when changing the filter.
Josh
I always have it facing downhill so that when I drain the water separator, all the fuel drains out of the filter cap since the drain screw is forward of the filter.
If you have it facing uphill, you will still have some fuel puddled up in the filter cap when you remove it, which makes more of a mess.
I was thinking the same about making an adapter for the assembly and put a Racor marine fuel water seperator that way you can see contamination in the fuel to boot.
I have a set of HD 12k lb "suv ramps".
I am also 2wd, so I don't have much in the way of my HFCM....
I had frequent WIF light activations during the prior 6-8 months.
I would routinely drain the HFCM and get very little sediment out.
I did the last fuel filter change without making much mess by putting 1 ramp in front of EACH driver side tire and then pulling the Ex up. This lifts the entire driver side up AND tilts the Ex such that when removing the upgraded HFCM drain plug I can use a clear peanut butter jar to catch and inspect the fluid.
Just we careful getting out since you are higher than you think!
While the Ex was up in the air, I also used carb cleaner (some say use brake cleaner instead) to really clean out the brown gooo from inside the drain plug area and WIF sensor. Used about 30% of the can to really get it clean inside. Did have a small pile of goo on the driveway to clean up though.
Then I pulled the filter out and only a few drops of fuel came out.
8 months later and still no WIF light and I am very happy now.