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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Cleaning Inside doors

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Old May 20, 2013 | 09:51 PM
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Cleaning Inside doors

Ok truck gurus
how to clean and preserve
the inside of the doors scraped the outer shell
how about inner
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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tip49
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Dippin'

Best would be to have em dipped, to remove rust.

Could go with wire wheel on drill, but the air might be blue by the time you finish.

I had my doors dipped,in non-acidic solution then I poured rust converter and "swirled" around. Painted using extension tip for inside panel application.

Tom
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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Rust converter works by chemical reaction with rust, it is not a coating, useless on sandblasted or acid dipped metal.
I would use a hand wire brush to remove loose rust and/or dirt, awl or ice pick to scrape folds and seams, vacuum thoroughly. Spray with light even coat of rust converter in rattle can (Rustoleum brand available at Home Depot or Lowes, online from Eastwood. ~ 18.00 a can but goes a long ways if used right.) to just wet surface. Let react/dry 24 hrs, spray with high quality primer, paint or epoxy primer. (Remember regular 1 part primer is porous and must be overcoated with paint. Be sure weep holes in door bottoms are clear.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 09:38 PM
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Too often, people get way too worked up about covering and coating every square millimeter of metal on old vehicles. You can actually do more harm than good trying to make things "better." Take a good look at your truck and realize where the trouble spots are, and why they are troublesome. Typical rust out areas are lower cab corners and low, horizontal areas. Places where dirt and moisture can combine and oxidize metals. When was the last time you saw the inside skin of a door shell rotted away to nature? It just doesn't happen unless it was left laying in the bottom of a lake. It's not a normal for water and dirt to collect and combine to do damage.

My advice would be to concentrate on the places that can be a problem, keep your drains clean and your interiors dry. Leave the hidden places that aren't problem areas alone. Leave the light, dusty surface rust alone and leave it to protect the metal the way mother nature intended. It hasn't been a problem for over 60 years, and won't be in our lifetime.
 
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Old May 21, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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Thanx fellas, after many ups and downs I finally got the final from the county on my
shop, because i wanted a bathroom in it I had to go thru the same permit process as if I was building a house..Not wanting to rant, they refused another extension.
But good news I can concentrate on my hotrod
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 12:51 AM
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That's why I didn't put a bathroom in mine. Could have put in a "floor drain" and left it covered then later after you got the occupancy cert. do what you wanted around it. I ran 3 3" underground conduits from the house to the garage up thru the floor in the corner and capped them for water, internet other cables etc. I had french dran line put in all around the outside perimeter run to the city storm drain. brought up cleanout/downspout risers at each corner. Would be very easy to connect an inside drain into it for a sink or ???
 
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Old May 22, 2013 | 06:09 AM
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My buddy has a funnel screwed to a walll and a hose. Grass grows really well where the hose comes out the side of the shop. He didn't even need to put a hole in the siding. There was a hole left over from a "minor" pistol-cleaning incident. At least he was pointing it down and away. Sheesh!
Now, that's the good life!
 
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