Surface rust inside panels
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Winder GA
Surface rust inside panels
How should I clean and treat the surface corrosion inside door panels / fenders / areas etc where i cannot get to the surface directly please?
I am always grateful for all the great help I get here!
mark
I am always grateful for all the great help I get here!
mark
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,616
From: Seattle
If you do not plan to pull it apart and blast it, but just want to try to neutralize the surface rust as best as possible some people like to use a product called POR-15 or something like it. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. I'm not sure what you meant by not getting to the surface directly. Door inner panels can be gotten to through the door access hole on the lower inside. Fenders are mostly exposed on the back side, etc.
I've also used Rust-Mort and while it does neutralize the rust you'd still have to coat it with something to keep the rust from coming back.
If I haven't understood the question fully feel free to correct my assumptions.
Chad
I've also used Rust-Mort and while it does neutralize the rust you'd still have to coat it with something to keep the rust from coming back.
If I haven't understood the question fully feel free to correct my assumptions.
Chad
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 529
Likes: 14
I use either rust converter or rust neutralizer depending on which one enables me to get at the area best (around here neutrlizer comes in a spray can & converter is brush on). After it dries the required time top coat with Rustoleum primer then Rustoleum enamal before the primer is completely dry that way you don't have to sand it (usually you can't get to it to sand it anyway). Has worked well for me as long as the rust isn't thick scale then your kinda wasting your time with this method.
I've never used POR-15 but have read it's rather difficult to work with and while it forms a tough topcoat some people have found rust still growing underneath but like I say I have no experience with it.
I've never used POR-15 but have read it's rather difficult to work with and while it forms a tough topcoat some people have found rust still growing underneath but like I say I have no experience with it.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Winder GA
If you do not plan to pull it apart and blast it, but just want to try to neutralize the surface rust as best as possible some people like to use a product called POR-15 or something like it. POR stands for Paint Over Rust. I'm not sure what you meant by not getting to the surface directly. Door inner panels can be gotten to through the door access hole on the lower inside. Fenders are mostly exposed on the back side, etc.
I've also used Rust-Mort and while it does neutralize the rust you'd still have to coat it with something to keep the rust from coming back.
If I haven't understood the question fully feel free to correct my assumptions.
Chad
I've also used Rust-Mort and while it does neutralize the rust you'd still have to coat it with something to keep the rust from coming back.
If I haven't understood the question fully feel free to correct my assumptions.
Chad
thanks again
mark
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 873
Likes: 37
From: Ohio
Chad, thanks very much for the reply. What i mean by can't get to it is the areas at the cab corners, between bed walls, front cowlings, back sides of door surfaces etc. I will likely use a liquid type of rust inhibitor, and then maybe spray cans of epoxy primer. A prime example is the area below the wipers / air intake grilles, the dash is welded in, no access without cutting steel.
thanks again
mark
thanks again
mark
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,616
From: Seattle
The cowl is surely a difficult area. I had a ‘65 that started to leak through the cowl area because of rust, failed seam sealer or something. At that point the fix is not easy. Eastwood sells a product (heavy-duty anti-rust treatment) for use inside panels. It is a waxy/oily substance, good for stopping additional rust. Problem with using it there is it probably keeps leave and such from getting washed out. Fluidfilm could also be beneficial, but it’s not a one and done application.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-summer.html
Chad
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 873
Likes: 37
From: Ohio
Just follow this example. Easy way to get rid of all of the rust. Well, easy might not be the right term for it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-summer.html
Chad
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-summer.html
Chad
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,852
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From: Lehigh Valley, Penna.
Just follow this example. Easy way to get rid of all of the rust. Well, easy might not be the right term for it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-summer.html
Chad
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ne-summer.html
Chad
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Fallout Shelter
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Winder GA
I use a product called OSPHO for this type project. Buy it in gallon jugs for about $25 at the hardware store. Put in a spray bottle to apply it and scrub it in with a scuff pad (If you can). Works excellent at removing rust and what residual rust is left behind is converted to a blackish primer. Been doing this for years even on frames after wire wheeling them. Rust has never returned although I always try to coat with epoxy primer.
mark
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
I use a product called OSPHO for this type project. Buy it in gallon jugs for about $25 at the hardware store. Put in a spray bottle to apply it and scrub it in with a scuff pad (If you can). Works excellent at removing rust and what residual rust is left behind is converted to a blackish primer. Been doing this for years even on frames after wire wheeling them. Rust has never returned although I always try to coat with epoxy primer.
For areas you cant get to like the cowl or between roof panels, my 81 has a 2 layer metal roof, you can use Eastwood internal frame coating. It is a spray can with a long plastic hose that has an end the sprays 360* to coat everything. I have used this on a 1 year only hood between skin & frame on a buddies car.
Now if you can get to the area with brush or spray gun this Eastwood product works well. My 1 year only hood I pulled the frame from skin and used a brush to coat. Also did the under side of fenders the same way.
To seal the cowl area where seam sealer may have cracked or fallen out some have used that stuff you see on TV you spray to seal leaks. They used it on the bottom of a boat they cut open and used a screen door in its place. I forget the name but you can add a carb cleaner straw and point it to where it needs to be. You can get it in clear or think black or white. I used the clear on the roof of my house and worked great and have heard of others using it on the cowl and it worked also.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Winder GA
I used the same acid in a spray bottle. I used it on the frame & body panels and then top coat with what ever you want. Frame was with TSC black paint and the body after body work primer & auto grade paint.
For areas you cant get to like the cowl or between roof panels, my 81 has a 2 layer metal roof, you can use Eastwood internal frame coating. It is a spray can with a long plastic hose that has an end the sprays 360* to coat everything. I have used this on a 1 year only hood between skin & frame on a buddies car.
Now if you can get to the area with brush or spray gun this Eastwood product works well. My 1 year only hood I pulled the frame from skin and used a brush to coat. Also did the under side of fenders the same way.
To seal the cowl area where seam sealer may have cracked or fallen out some have used that stuff you see on TV you spray to seal leaks. They used it on the bottom of a boat they cut open and used a screen door in its place. I forget the name but you can add a carb cleaner straw and point it to where it needs to be. You can get it in clear or think black or white. I used the clear on the roof of my house and worked great and have heard of others using it on the cowl and it worked also.
Dave ----
For areas you cant get to like the cowl or between roof panels, my 81 has a 2 layer metal roof, you can use Eastwood internal frame coating. It is a spray can with a long plastic hose that has an end the sprays 360* to coat everything. I have used this on a 1 year only hood between skin & frame on a buddies car.
Now if you can get to the area with brush or spray gun this Eastwood product works well. My 1 year only hood I pulled the frame from skin and used a brush to coat. Also did the under side of fenders the same way.
To seal the cowl area where seam sealer may have cracked or fallen out some have used that stuff you see on TV you spray to seal leaks. They used it on the bottom of a boat they cut open and used a screen door in its place. I forget the name but you can add a carb cleaner straw and point it to where it needs to be. You can get it in clear or think black or white. I used the clear on the roof of my house and worked great and have heard of others using it on the cowl and it worked also.
Dave ----
Dave, thanks very much. I really appreciate the help.
mark
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
You are describing the toughest of places to get to in order to solve the toughest problems in old truck ownership, so via con dios my friend.
I have only had lasting luck with a full sand, solvent wipe, acid etch primer, final top coat (paint, bedliner, other coat). The cab corners on mine needed full replacement so I was able to remove all the rust internally at that area as they were cut open and welded.
Use POR-15 sparingly. I've had mixed results. If things aren't clean of oils, loose rust, and dirt it is not going to stick at all or penetrate the rust. Any oil or silicone on it and the material will film up and flake off later.
I've had very good luck with an over-the-counter bed liner if that interests you.
I have only had lasting luck with a full sand, solvent wipe, acid etch primer, final top coat (paint, bedliner, other coat). The cab corners on mine needed full replacement so I was able to remove all the rust internally at that area as they were cut open and welded.
Use POR-15 sparingly. I've had mixed results. If things aren't clean of oils, loose rust, and dirt it is not going to stick at all or penetrate the rust. Any oil or silicone on it and the material will film up and flake off later.
I've had very good luck with an over-the-counter bed liner if that interests you.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 1
From: Winder GA
You are describing the toughest of places to get to in order to solve the toughest problems in old truck ownership, so via con dios my friend.
I have only had lasting luck with a full sand, solvent wipe, acid etch primer, final top coat (paint, bedliner, other coat). The cab corners on mine needed full replacement so I was able to remove all the rust internally at that area as they were cut open and welded.
Use POR-15 sparingly. I've had mixed results. If things aren't clean of oils, loose rust, and dirt it is not going to stick at all or penetrate the rust. Any oil or silicone on it and the material will film up and flake off later.
I've had very good luck with an over-the-counter bed liner if that interests you.
I have only had lasting luck with a full sand, solvent wipe, acid etch primer, final top coat (paint, bedliner, other coat). The cab corners on mine needed full replacement so I was able to remove all the rust internally at that area as they were cut open and welded.
Use POR-15 sparingly. I've had mixed results. If things aren't clean of oils, loose rust, and dirt it is not going to stick at all or penetrate the rust. Any oil or silicone on it and the material will film up and flake off later.
I've had very good luck with an over-the-counter bed liner if that interests you.
Good stuff,
thanks again
mark
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
Dave ----