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Been a while guys. Update!
Alright so a couple of weekends ago i took my water pump back off for the 2nd time, and reinstalled it, new gasket, surface thoroughly cleaned on both sides. rtv on the water pump and block, installed water pump. tightened down. everything back on,
Also had replaced the t stat the first go around, and it hasnt leaked, had my radiator rotted out, it's good, like new.
got everything back on, fired her up. annnnnnn,d leaking. from the top of the pump around the gasket. same spots really. this time it's pushing oil though, i can't really tell if it's oil AND coolant, or just oil. but either way, it's still getting past the gasket so YET AGAIN it hasn't sealed. right?
Really frustrated with this project.
Anyhow, did all that after i installed my turbo, and i said to hell with this, im driving this down the road at the very least, theres coolant in it, so i'm driving it.
Drove it hard down the road and back, maybe 3 miles tops. got her back to the house. and yeah leaking frmo the top of the pump, but also seeping out of the upper radiator hose, i didn't replace the hoses so i'm thinking its just leaking pushing past the hose clamp. but i tried to squeeze the upper hose. and it was hard as a rock. i just put a new tstat in. ford. got the part number off of this website. i'm just confused. my heater hoses get hot. so it's circulating right? i mean i couldn't even compress it, and thats probably why it was forcing it past the hose clamp. granted their old hoses and need replacing but it needed somewhere to go. need some advice guys. got my pump from rockauto, so i probably can't return it and ask for another pump, but 2 times in a row and STILL leaking. gahlee.
Did you put sealant onto the 4 or so bolts that go through the timing cover into the timing gear place (don't really know what to call it). Those 4 holes at least go straight through and require sealant so the bolts don't leak oil.
Not sure if that is all of your problem, but something to look at.
Also, did you test the thermostat before installing it to make sure it opens?
I put sealant on the required bolts, i mean a good heavy bead in a line down the bolt, i didnt just like coat it all around the bolts but i don't think that would do anything? also wouldn't that leak through the bolt holes? my leaks are around teh perimiter of the pump.
And no sir i didn't heed the warnings and i assumed it would be working correctly.. /:
I'll be testing it when i pull it back off
Also, found where my smoke is coming frmo in the engine, when i run it hard down the road and get back and pop the hood it's pushing white smoke from my cdr valve. granted right now i have no hose clamps on my hose from the cdr to the other side of the intake tube but i don't think it should be blowing white smoke should it? and i think it's coming from like the base of it? not from the hose>?
I'm not sure what it is it could be steam,. it started pouring so i had to pull the truck in. yeah it's leaking at the top, i'm not sure about oil in the coolant i don't drive the truck enough to really get it in there. i did put rtv on the bolts.
i'm not sure how the bolt holes and the timing cover orrientation go so i'm not sure if oil would be in my coolant since i see it leaking out of the gasket or what. i'm probably just gonna pull the whole front of my truck and take my timing cover off and replace teh gaskets, maybe just fix all my leaks on the front of the engine while im there, my oil fill tube leaks as well. I was gonna do this the first time but people were arguing over wether it was a huge deal to pull the cover off and mess up your timing or something. or if it wasn't a big deal at all. so i opted not to,.
Anyone have any insight on that?
i don't see how taking the timing cover off would mess the timing off LOL...
are you sure the oil is not leaking from the IP gear housing cover and running down onto the water pump, or even out of that access cover that you take off when taking the IP off?
When you take that water pump off, look real close at the bosses for any irregularities. Then use a straight edge on the mating surfaces of the water pump. If all that checks out then use the straight edge on the timing cover where the pump mounts, check the timing cover real carefully. Something has to be out of order here.
yeah i'm thinking about just tearing the whole front clip out so i can be at everything easier. bring my impact drill home from work over the weekend and have it zapped out in no time. then be able to sit down and really see what i'm doing
Question guys. on the thermostat. i DID order the correct part numbera nd double checked it. but when i got it, there was the metal outer ring that seats in the housing, and then the rubber casing around the base of it, problem is, the rubber sleeve around the base of it, when seated in the housing, does not even touch the sides of the housing, i figured the rubber sleeve would be to kind of compress it into the housing so it doesn't move anywhere. but it doesn't even come close to touching. Does this sound right at all? confused about that but i double checked the part numbers and put it in anyways
Wow.... You make me freek out about my pump install.. I did mine on my rebuild with cleaned plate and I used a good amount of High tack gasket sealer on the gaskets and RTV in the plate bolt holes and on the bolts. I hope mine don't leak.. When I put my plate on I sealed it to the block and used short bolts in the pump mounting locations that bolt into the block to make sure the plate was sealed to the block. I put the pump on the next day so I hope I don't have the same problems you are having...Did you make sure your Check ball was loose it the T stat water housing?...
In the housing that the T stat is under has a little check ball held in place by a little cork ring. the check ball allows flow to move back into the engine when there is not any flow against it from the pump. this lets the engine release air bubbles that might be trapped in the block. The "timing cover" as you called it is the plate that covers the gears and acts as the back of the pump. It needs to be sealed to the block just as well as the pump to the plate. All I was saying if your getting oil/coolant leaks from the bolts that hold the pump on to the plate it could be from a poor seal behind the gear cover plate. If there is just a small amount of crank case pressure it could push oil out the bolt boss if not sealed or has a nick in the surface. If your pump is giving you this much trouble I am worried about mine...I will be starting it on a pallet before installing it in my Motor Home. This will give me a chance to make sure I have no leaks.