Water pump woes.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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Guys i need assistance. So next go round i'll be using blue loctite instead of red on the fan, gotta go borrow the torch to get it off tomorrow, i pulled the threads in a hole on the bottom of the water pump, and unfortunately i'm pretty sure it's one that goes into the engine, i.e oil.
I need advice on fixing it, guy at work said to drill it, which would put shavings all in the engine, and then dip the tap in grease, run it in a little, pull it out, wipe it off, re dip it and so forth. any advice? mayeb ill get lucky and it wont be an oil hole.
But i'm pulling my timing cover and all tomorrow and hopefully gonna get it right this time, really pissing me off. can't figure this out.
have to get on here about that thermostat problem too
I need advice on fixing it, guy at work said to drill it, which would put shavings all in the engine, and then dip the tap in grease, run it in a little, pull it out, wipe it off, re dip it and so forth. any advice? mayeb ill get lucky and it wont be an oil hole.
But i'm pulling my timing cover and all tomorrow and hopefully gonna get it right this time, really pissing me off. can't figure this out.
have to get on here about that thermostat problem too
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
Putting grease on the drill bit will also help collect the shavings as you drill (at least in theory).
I might be completely wrong about this, but I'll guess anyways. The oil holes go through the front cover, as in the threads are in the front cover itself, and not the engine block. Thats why those ones need thread sealant, as oil draining down the front of the engine will get on the bolts and leak through the threads.
So if I'm right, you'll be able to fix the problem on a work bench, not on the motor, and don't worry about it. But I could be wrong as I've never opened up the front of these engines.
I might be completely wrong about this, but I'll guess anyways. The oil holes go through the front cover, as in the threads are in the front cover itself, and not the engine block. Thats why those ones need thread sealant, as oil draining down the front of the engine will get on the bolts and leak through the threads.
So if I'm right, you'll be able to fix the problem on a work bench, not on the motor, and don't worry about it. But I could be wrong as I've never opened up the front of these engines.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: western Oregon
There are four nuts welded to the gear cover. hopefully you can grind off the stripped nut and weld another on the plate. If its one in the block they all are dead end holes. just clean and use a bottom tap and make sure your bolts are the right size for each location. If its really bad use a thread coil to repair it. good luck.
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From: Western Mass
Water Pump Bolt Problem - stripped-how to fix? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Someone had the same problem, there are a couple pictures that are linked there that might help as well.
Someone had the same problem, there are a couple pictures that are linked there that might help as well.
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Elder User
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well thats great news everyone! i got me some WATER PUMP gasket sealer this time, maybe that will work. gonna get this crap off. got the torch, gonna heat this clutch nut up and get that off. then hit everything else with the electric impact.
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um. okay guys, so i got the torch and heated it up and that nut wont even budge now. at all. does anyone know if they make the ford fan clutch tool for our year trucks in an air hammer application? i know for the trucks at work the guys have them but idk if they would for ours because their so old?
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electric impact just to zip the bolts out quicker on the alternator power steering , pulleys etc. torch because the fan clutch wont budge. thats why.
gonna have to borrow an air hammer with the apprpriate fan clutch tool if they make one for our trucks on an air hammer
gonna have to borrow an air hammer with the apprpriate fan clutch tool if they make one for our trucks on an air hammer
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Logistics Pro
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From: Western Mass
I use red loc-tite on my fan clutch and had no problem removing it a few years later when the pump died again. By no problem, I mean it was as hard to get off as it was the first time. Just had to put a little muscle into it. Are you using the proper fan clutch wrench? Use a cheater pipe on the breaker bar. I think someone posted a way to jam one of the wrenches up so you just have to worry about holding the big one in place.
If you're just going to reuse the same water pump, just leave the clutch on it. You can pull the fan off to get some more room up there if you need to.
If you're just going to reuse the same water pump, just leave the clutch on it. You can pull the fan off to get some more room up there if you need to.
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i respect everyones opinion, and i don't have any impact tools at my house, their all at the shop, but if you go to work in a shop and say you don't believe in impact tools, well i guarantee they wont hire you, it will take you 3 times as long to dissassemble an engine than it would if you had one of these nifty snapon electric impacts. i've seen these guys do them insanely fast with nothing but that little gun.
but i respect everyones opinion!
i got the clutch off guys, a little bit of torching and a WHOLE lot of muscle,
had to ask the big man for help on that one.
Bought me some actual "water pump/thermostat housing sealer" this time, see if it makes any diference.
but i respect everyones opinion!
i got the clutch off guys, a little bit of torching and a WHOLE lot of muscle,
had to ask the big man for help on that one.
Bought me some actual "water pump/thermostat housing sealer" this time, see if it makes any diference.
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Well, I didn't say I don't believe in impact tools, they do have their place, just not on an engine.
Impact tools beat the threads, hence the name 'impact'.
Also you can feel a lot with hand tools, improper resistance, cross-threading, bolt about to break, bolt bottoming out prematurely, and weak threads. Impact wrenches will tell you none of these until it is too late.
And you him upon something important there, shops care nothing about your vehicle. They have no reason too, it's just another car/truck and they have a job to do. So they will sacrifice quality workmanship for speed. The more crap they move out the door, the more money they make.
I only take my vehicles in for repairs that I cannot do, which is few. IE, exhaust systems, windshields, and alignments. Everything else I do myself and it may take me a lot longer then a shop, but my repair is done right and with the care that only a owner can give it.
Back to your water pump, do you have any pictures? Maybe someone else's eye here can spot why there's do much difficulty in sealing it. Pictures of the back side of the pump and the mating surface on the engine.
Good question on the T-Stat, I can't remember if the rubber is a snug fit into the block or not.
Impact tools beat the threads, hence the name 'impact'.
Also you can feel a lot with hand tools, improper resistance, cross-threading, bolt about to break, bolt bottoming out prematurely, and weak threads. Impact wrenches will tell you none of these until it is too late.
And you him upon something important there, shops care nothing about your vehicle. They have no reason too, it's just another car/truck and they have a job to do. So they will sacrifice quality workmanship for speed. The more crap they move out the door, the more money they make.
I only take my vehicles in for repairs that I cannot do, which is few. IE, exhaust systems, windshields, and alignments. Everything else I do myself and it may take me a lot longer then a shop, but my repair is done right and with the care that only a owner can give it.
Back to your water pump, do you have any pictures? Maybe someone else's eye here can spot why there's do much difficulty in sealing it. Pictures of the back side of the pump and the mating surface on the engine.
Good question on the T-Stat, I can't remember if the rubber is a snug fit into the block or not.
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Yeah iwish someone had the answer to that good question haha. the pump is now off, i'll get pics later,
The timing cover gasket IS leaking, and i believe that's whats pushing oil through the pump seal. because it's definitely oil, so the timing gasket is shot.
To me it really doesn't look like you have to pull the harmonic balancer to pull that off considering it goes OVER it and doesn't wrap around it?
anyone have info on removing it or a write up? i think i need to remove my oil filler tube, will that mess anything up with timing or anything? i have heard that is dangerous too..
Need info kinda quick here /:
The timing cover gasket IS leaking, and i believe that's whats pushing oil through the pump seal. because it's definitely oil, so the timing gasket is shot.
To me it really doesn't look like you have to pull the harmonic balancer to pull that off considering it goes OVER it and doesn't wrap around it?
anyone have info on removing it or a write up? i think i need to remove my oil filler tube, will that mess anything up with timing or anything? i have heard that is dangerous too..
Need info kinda quick here /: