Water pump woes.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
If you have the top cover off, you don't really have to worry about messing up the timing. If you're worried, clean the gears up, then mark them as they sit.
Leave the IP attached the the gear cover, remove the injection lines, and lift the cover with the IP and gear all off as one piece. Then you can clean up the area around the cover and reseal it.
I'm not super clear how the timing cover fits up at the top, but even if it has to slip under the gear cover, put the gear cover/IP back on and get the gears lined up as you had marked them. Then tilt or lift the gear cover a little to get the timing cover in place. The gears should stay meshed together that way, or wouldn't be able to move far enough to skip a tooth. By not removing the IP from the gear cover, you won't chance the timing any as long as you get the gears lined up again (and its easy to line the gears up of the cover is off, or mark as you please before removal).
Leave the IP attached the the gear cover, remove the injection lines, and lift the cover with the IP and gear all off as one piece. Then you can clean up the area around the cover and reseal it.
I'm not super clear how the timing cover fits up at the top, but even if it has to slip under the gear cover, put the gear cover/IP back on and get the gears lined up as you had marked them. Then tilt or lift the gear cover a little to get the timing cover in place. The gears should stay meshed together that way, or wouldn't be able to move far enough to skip a tooth. By not removing the IP from the gear cover, you won't chance the timing any as long as you get the gears lined up again (and its easy to line the gears up of the cover is off, or mark as you please before removal).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Oh, about the top hose being hard as a rock, was it hot too?
The system is supposed to be pressurized while up to temp, so I would think thats normal. What is the condition of the radiator? if its clogged, that could also lead to pressure in the top hose.
Actually, the thermostat HAS to be open before water even passes through the top hose. So don't worry about your thermostat, especially since you tested it outside the truck.
I'm trying to remember about the rubber on the outside of it. I replaced mine when I did the second water pump, just because I figured it would be a good idea. I think the rubber was loose like you're showing, but I can't remember for certain. I probably have the old one in the garage, not that I can remember where though....
The system is supposed to be pressurized while up to temp, so I would think thats normal. What is the condition of the radiator? if its clogged, that could also lead to pressure in the top hose.
Actually, the thermostat HAS to be open before water even passes through the top hose. So don't worry about your thermostat, especially since you tested it outside the truck.
I'm trying to remember about the rubber on the outside of it. I replaced mine when I did the second water pump, just because I figured it would be a good idea. I think the rubber was loose like you're showing, but I can't remember for certain. I probably have the old one in the garage, not that I can remember where though....
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Elder User
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Yeah the truck was up to opperating temp, it just seemed way too hard to me, idk. but i got new rad hoses. so what your saying is, to unbolt the lines at the back of the pump, unbolt the ip gear cover, or the oil fill tube whichever you want to call it, and pull it up and off, and then where would i make my marks???? just confused cause i have never been into all the gears or an IP so its new territory for me, i assume theres the ip gear up top, that resides in the ip gear cover, correct? and your telling me to take like a sharpy or something and mark it in relation to the gear thats under it, which would be covered by the timing cover plate i would assume? that being said i would have to have the ip gear cover off to see the gear below it to mark the relation of the gears, but i can't get the timing cover off first to mark the gears before i un mate the two gear teeth because i have to take the ip gear cover OFF, therefore unmating the gears, just to see the gear below it, correct?
CONFUSION!
CONFUSION!
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I saw on youtube a guy mark is IP gear by removing the front plate on the oil fill tube, cleaning off the front of the gear i guess, and marking with a red sharpie on the gear and then on the ip gear cover housiing. couldn't i just do it this way? The IP gear is the only thing that would really have the chance of spinning right? the rest of the gears turn with the crank and that won't be turning at all, so if i mark the gear in relation to the housing, take it off, and put my timing cover back on, slip my ip gear cover back over the lip the correct way, and then set it down meshing the gears together and just check my mark in relation to the gear and housing, it should match up and that would mean everything is as it was. right? anyone understand that?
Also anyone know exactly what type puller is suggested to pull the harmonic balancer?? i have heard crows foot, jaw puller. don't wanna mess it up, looked it up on alldata at work and it just says take the nut off and pull the balancer off, like it just slides off, course these engines are 26 years old now hahah
Also anyone know exactly what type puller is suggested to pull the harmonic balancer?? i have heard crows foot, jaw puller. don't wanna mess it up, looked it up on alldata at work and it just says take the nut off and pull the balancer off, like it just slides off, course these engines are 26 years old now hahah
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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This is what I use on harmonic balancers:
46 Piece Bolt Puller Set
Haven't used it on an IDI yet, but I'd be surprised if it wasn't large enough.
46 Piece Bolt Puller Set
Haven't used it on an IDI yet, but I'd be surprised if it wasn't large enough.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
Marking the gear and the cover should work fine. Maybe make it a little easier, since the gear will be all oily. Mark the cover where the alignment pin for the IP is. Maybe scratch a small mark which will be there even if you clean all the junk off.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
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at chevy eater, so with those do you just install the puller bolts in to the pulley your trying to pull and thats how it works? like mine has 4 bolts that go into the pulley. i don't even really think i need those out to take the pulley off though
Thanks tec i'll do that, once i take the cover off i'll get a pic and see whatsup
Thanks tec i'll do that, once i take the cover off i'll get a pic and see whatsup
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
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Yes, the pulleys are just bolted on, take the bolts off the pulleys come off, then you install the puller with the pulley bolt holes then installed the center piece and when you tighten it against the crank it pushes the dampener out and off.
Take the center bolt out of the crank first of course.
Take the center bolt out of the crank first of course.
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Elder User
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Beautiful. I understand now. Now about installing a new seal and putting the dampener back on, i hear yhe engine will yurn over once you start tightening. How do you keep it from doing that? Gotta use that balancer installer tool i've seen im sure right?
