Water pump woes.
So i'm reading you do have to pull the harmonic balancer, or dampener, or whatever you please.
Even though i can't see why? Okay.
So to pull it, i have read i need a puller, others say a 15/16ths socket. Mine DOES leak like a siv around there, where it meets the engine, i'm guessing theres supposed to be a seal there, who knows guys, we might have my engine leak free after all after its said and done (;
So do i need a puller? or a socket? i can probably borrow anything from work.
Also, my oil filler tube is the style where the neck bolts to the gear cover, the gear cover has a lip that goes over the timing cover plate. if i take the dampener off i imagine i can pull out on the bottom of the timing cover plate to get it off the dowel pins, then down out from under the lip of the IP timing gear cover so that i don't have to pull that and mess up any IP timing? Does this sound like a good plan to anyone?
Info is greatly appreciated!
The front crank seal is on the cover and will need to be replaced allong with the gasket for the cover.
This is what im working with

Theres the thermostat right after i took the housing off

theres the inside of the housing, i guess thats the ball someone was takling about?

Heres the mating surface of the timing cover.scraped a little of the gasket off, havent really started cleaning it since i have to remove it anyways. i'll just get it good and clean when i have it off.

Right in there is where it really leaks the worst, at the top.

Picture of old water pump(front) and new water pump (rear)
Only difference is the new one has that little indention for some reason right below where the heater hose goes on. Not sure if that could have an effect or not? all the bolt holes match but i mean it is slightly different?

Old thermostat left, new right, soooo, the copper plunger on these are supposed to compress a spring and let coolant pass through right? so does that mean the one on the left, the old one, was stuck open? i cannot compress the new one with my fingers.

Picture of the new tstat with the rubber seal, to show just how far off from the sides it sits. doesn't make any sense to me at all.
I haven't torn into the front of an IDI yet, but I'm pretty sure the dampener will have to come off. Just look at the new gasket and that'll tell you the area it has to cover.
There's some amount of pitting in your timing cover, green arrows, but I've seen worse seal up with a new gasket and sealant.
There's a chunk of something, red circle, that seems to match up with another chunk of something on the new WP and seems to match up with a clean spot on the old WP.
That check ball is correct.
I'll go look at the T-stat in the '86 in a couple of minutes and see how it fits.

i'm just not sure why that top radiator hose had SO much pressure on it, figured the tstat should have been opening? i don't get it.
Also i'm wondering what rockauto or someone would list a harmonic balancer seal as. would it be timing cover seal? they list a timing cover repair sleeve also, and both are circular of course, the timing cover plate is obviously a plate, can't help but think they're referring to the dampener seal?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
ACTUALLY. i have one already, they sent me the wrong thing when i tried to order my rear main! awesome
i'll borrow a puller from work.
so front crank seal, that will solve another leak, timing seal, theres another leak.
Anyone know about my suggestion of getting the timing cover off without pulling the top IP gear cover???
So we're good there, just cannot figure out why i had so much pressure on that upper radiator hose after that drive?...accordign to the guage it was at operating temp, but the upper rad hose was hard as a rock






