I recently purchased a TS chip for my Late 99 F-350. I have some average performance things done to my truck but once I installed the chip it began throwing overboost codes when I would get into the throttle a bit, which means means less fuel = lack of power . SO, I began looking into boost foolers and decided put put a little twist on it.

So here we go:

Little preview of engine Comp Done!



Tools you need:


Hand tools:

1/4 rachet
-11MM socket
-small extension
-T20 Torx
pliers
center punch
hammer
file
marker
tin snips

Drill
-1/4 bit
-1/2 bit
(I used step drill)


Materials Needed:

Metal
-7in x 6in [Steel(.030-.060) or Aluminum(.045-.080)] $8-$15
2 hose clamps (For hose, 3/8 id I believe) $1-$2
Air pressure regulator(Harbor Freight) $5-$6
2 male 1/4 barbs(buy at Harbor Freight) $3
3 or 4 washers for a 1/2in bolt(.100 ish thick, standard stuff NOT thin ones though) $1-$2
Teflon tape $3

ALL and ALL around $21-$31! which is less than HALF PRICE of a boost fooler and you get to have some fun/pride in your work!

On a side note, if you want to perform this and DO NOT have an air compressor to pre-adjust your regulator, thats ok! I purchased and tested 3 of the same style regulators and 1.5 turns LOOSER than full tight will bring you roughly to 18-23psi . Then if you so choose keep loosening until SES light shows during heavy acceleration, then tighten it back up a hair

Bracket:

Start with a blank piece of paper and trace your old MAP sensor bracket. Then follow with the pics I provided to draw the rest of it up.



I cheated and used a bench grinder and air tools because I am lucky enough to have them at my disposal. I also sand blasted my bracket because I REALLY dig when something looks as if it could come stock that way.

There she is!




HAVE FUN GUYS!

 

Interesting, does it work? I would think that regulator wouldn't respond quickly enough to pressure changes. Also, it probably won't like the engine heat and vibration, but time will tell.

 

It actually works awesome, boost was at 27psi and no SES light, the regulator does it's job. The only future problem I forsee is from excessive vibration. But, if it's assembled and tightened properly, there should be no issue. Its just like hoping the tiny plastic lines for boost that attach from the wastegate to the sensor don't vibrate or get blown off under pressure or your non-clip together wire connectors don't vibrate apart.

Regardless, IF the regulator fails, the odds of it failing in the closed position are wickedly slim to none; air will be able to pass by it would just go unregulated. Then your back to acting as if there is no regulation at all.

I know the gauge is useless except for initial setup, but it came with it so I left it.

 

i did one for $6
$4 for a cheeepo regulator and $2 for fittings. the regulator is only around the size of the barb fittings. set it sor 21 lbs and taped the valve so it would not move, and put it in the line. hte guy who owns the truck has been driving it like that for 6 years now.

 

Well i actually had everything except the reg and the barbs so same, it only cost me $6 or $7 but realistically for someone who has absolutely NOTHING laying around it will come out to around $25. The "Big Dollar" item in this is the metal if you want to make a nice mount and I did aim quite high on the prices but w/e, the whole point was it wont cost anymore than $30 to make a nice functional boost fooler.

 

Same here... 4$ harbor freight regulator and i actually already had some quick connects laying around. Hit the lock rings on 2 male fittings and just slipped them in the map line. Took a little heat to get it to stretch but works great... no more ses when pedal meets metal.

 

Interesting getup will this work for the 6.0l? the map nipple to Intake clogs up does this hose bypass that ?

 

No...
This is a 7.3 thing.
If you want your map nipple to quit clogging up on your 6.0...
Do the egr delete.

 

I didnt see any pics provided. Is there a write up in the sticky's somewhere?