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I deleted the EGR on my 2005 and it did not throw any codes, most of the 2005s won't throw a code. If it does throw a code just plug the valve back in (i leave my valve plugged in but not installed).
I was in the same position as you before and I'm very happy I deleted my EGR, it's one less thing that can break. My truck now has 154k miles on original headgaskets and bolts and I run Matt's SRL as my daily driver with no problems.
Did you do the delete yourself, if not how much did the labor alone cost you? And for the valve, if its not installed what do you have in place of the valve?
I plan on doing the PCM rollbacks and all that stuff later on down the road when I really start getting into motor upgrades, hopefully it won't throw a code and I won't have anything to worry about for a whole.
Did you do the delete yourself, if not how much did the labor alone cost you? And for the valve, if its not installed what do you have in place of the valve?
I had it installed by a Ford certified diesel tech.
He charged me 1800 for the EGR delete install, new oil cooler, Coolant filter install, coolant flush with VC-9(new coolant after), turbo cleaning, updated stc fitting, new dummy plugs, new degas bottle, new air filter, oil change, and fuel filter change. (I paid 180 for my EGR delete and 140 for the coolant filter) so $2120 for everything listed above, I may be forgetting a few small things.
I have my valve sitting on top of the valve block off plate, I'm probably going to install the valve back in and take the cover plate off
I had it installed by a Ford certified diesel tech.
He charged me 1800 for the EGR delete install, new oil cooler, Coolant filter install, coolant flush with VC-9(new coolant after), turbo cleaning, updated stc fitting, new dummy plugs, new degas bottle, new air filter, oil change, and fuel filter change. (I paid 180 for my EGR delete and 140 for the coolant filter) so $2120 for everything listed above, I may be forgetting a few small things.
I have my valve sitting on top of the valve block off plate, I'm probably going to install the valve back in and take the cover plate off
This may be what I end up doing. I'd like to try it myself so I can learn but I'm not sure if I want my truck sitting for that long.
What brand egr did you go with? And how come you're going to put the valve back in? Just curious.
Installing a delete kit really is not that hard. I went with the IPR Gen 2 delete kit and with doing the STC fitting we had it done on a Saturday afternoon.
I think the stealth delete is the way I want to go. I don't really have any concern for visual inspection, I live in Texas and no one really cares around where I'm from. I was watching the Powerstrokehelp channel on youtube, the video about the EGR cooler delete and the stealth delete is what he recommends too, just welding plugs in the cooler and putting it back. He also says that putting a plug in the up-pipe is a bad idea because of it not sealing up properly and causing exhaust leaks. Overall I thought it was a nice video, easy for someone who is a visual learner to understand because he actually shows the whole motor and egr assembly with the cab off.
skidoor, the truck is a 2005. Is there no way the dealer can just turn the CEL off? I don't really wanna get into tuning until I do studs later on down the road.
Powerstrokehelp guy is a clown.
I still wouldn't bother with a "stealth" delete when you can buy a delete kit with up-pipe for under $150.
This may be what I end up doing. I'd like to try it myself so I can learn but I'm not sure if I want my truck sitting for that long.
What brand egr did you go with? And how come you're going to put the valve back in? Just curious.
I went with a RCD EGR delete, really really awesome quality. I was very impressed with the welds on the up pipe. I bought mine off of Ebay.
Im gonna put it back in because it moves around a bit, so its leaving marks all over the block off plate, It's also rubbing on the EGR valve wiring so i dont want it to cut through.
Edit: I said i paid 180 for the delete in my previous post, I went back and looked at the receipt and I paid 190, not much of a difference.
The EBP sensor is connected to the exhaust manifold via a metal tube - on the drivers side. The sensors location varies a little depending on model year. It is depicted in the "6.0L bible" - a quick search should take you there.
I still wouldn't bother with a "stealth" delete when you can buy a delete kit with up-pipe for under $150.
Guess I need to look around more when I get off, most of the kits I've seen were like 300+ haha. Another thought I had was just buying an up-pipe, I was looking at them on elite diesel engineering and they were about 100 bucks, and just pulling the cooler and blocking it off, or is that a dumb idea?
Originally Posted by lakewood
I went with a RCD EGR delete, really really awesome quality. I was very impressed with the welds on the up pipe. I bought mine off of Ebay.
Im gonna put it back in because it moves around a bit, so its leaving marks all over the block off plate, It's also rubbing on the EGR valve wiring so i dont want it to cut through.
Edit: I said i paid 180 for the delete in my previous post, I went back and looked at the receipt and I paid 190, not much of a difference.
Okay I see. If the orginal valve is still in, will the valve get clogged up with soot and stuff like mine is now, or am I missing something? Haha.
Originally Posted by bismic
The EBP sensor is connected to the exhaust manifold via a metal tube - on the drivers side. The sensors location varies a little depending on model year. It is depicted in the "6.0L bible" - a quick search should take you there.
I must have been looking at something else, it was just a big wire connected to whatever I was looking at that ran in with a bunch of other wires haha.
Okay I see. If the orginal valve is still in, will the valve get clogged up with soot and stuff like mine is now, or am I missing something? Haha.
No It will not become clogged with soot once you delete the EGR because the recirculated exhaust gas will no longer come back into the intake through the valve. Just clean the valve up good before you install in back in.
Heres two links to the RCD kit on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-0L-6-0-Ford-Powerstroke-EGR-Valve-Delete-Package-/300550874291?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fa3a64b3&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/River-City-Diesel-EGR-Cooler-Delete-W-Up-Pipe-Ford-6-0-Powerstroke-Diesel-03-07-/120965140036?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2a158e44&vxp=mtr
No It will not become clogged with soot once you delete the EGR because the recirculated exhaust gas will no longer come back into the intake through the valve. Just clean the valve up good before you install in back in.
Heres two links to the RCD kit on ebay: 6 0L 6 0 Ford Powerstroke EGR Valve Delete Package | eBay
I think if I do an actual kit this will be the way I go, with the up-pipe.
Not trying to bash anyone's opinion, just trying to figure out what I'm getting in to, what are the advantages/disadvantages to buying a kit rather than just welding up to cooler?
Found the picture for the EBP sensor. So what is the proper way to check this thing, or replace it/clean it?
Either way, whether I do a stealth delete or buy a kit, I'll be getting a new up-pipe. How does it support the Y-pipe though?
I looked at both the RCD kit and the IPR kit, and I think if I go with a kit I'm more leaning towards the IPR kit because it doesn't have the coolant redirect tube or whatever, which I've read in some threads the silicone/clamp blue thing at the end of it can come loose and leak. Has anyone else read this?
Either way, whether I do a stealth delete or buy a kit, I'll be getting a new up-pipe. How does it support the Y-pipe though?
I looked at both the RCD kit and the IPR kit, and I think if I go with a kit I'm more leaning towards the IPR kit because it doesn't have the coolant redirect tube or whatever, which I've read in some threads the silicone/clamp blue thing at the end of it can come loose and leak. Has anyone else read this?
Passenger side up-pipe clamps to the EGR which also clamps to the y-pipe. Makes a solid connection.
With the up-pipe no longer clamped to the EGR it can move free and vibrate and could possibly put stress on the y-pipe.
Guess not. Should I go ahead and replace my oil cooler while I'm in there? As far as I know it's not clogged or anything, but at the same time I don't have EOC and EOT numbers to back that up. Is it possible to determine if a oil cooler is bad without a monitoring system?
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