Gears Grind in Reverse
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Gears Grind in Reverse
I have a 1990 f250. Clutch and slave cylinder were replaced less than 10,000 miles ago. when i am stopped with the engine running and try and put it in reverse it just grinds and wont go in. Works fine in reverse when its off and i start it in reverse. Not sure if its the clutch or what. Any Ideas?
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 440
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I'm not a very knowledgeable person on manuals, so I probably won't be of any good help, but at least I'll try lol.
Does it do it ONLY when trying to engage reverse?
I would say if it's ONLY in reverse it may be a bent shift fork. Or a worn syncronizer, unless of course those transmissions don't have a reverse syncro to start with. Try putting it in like 4th and then shift into reverse and see if that helps.
Does it do it ONLY when trying to engage reverse?
I would say if it's ONLY in reverse it may be a bent shift fork. Or a worn syncronizer, unless of course those transmissions don't have a reverse syncro to start with. Try putting it in like 4th and then shift into reverse and see if that helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
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From: Western Central NV
I assume you have checked the master cylinder fluid level? Did you change the master cylinder when you changed the slave & clutch?
My 5 speed sometimes is hard to into reverse & first. But I clear the shifter by finding a gear it will go into & then try again. But if your grinding going into second you have an issue. You may have air in your line. Or a bad master cylinder. I read somewhere when changing the clutch it is a good idea to replace the master/slave & hoses. Because these clutches are great when they work but can be a big PITA.
Craig
My 5 speed sometimes is hard to into reverse & first. But I clear the shifter by finding a gear it will go into & then try again. But if your grinding going into second you have an issue. You may have air in your line. Or a bad master cylinder. I read somewhere when changing the clutch it is a good idea to replace the master/slave & hoses. Because these clutches are great when they work but can be a big PITA.
Craig
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
Try bleeding the hydraulic clutch system first since it is relatively easy to do. Then take a look at the firewall where the master cylinder mounts as you have someone else push the clutch checking for deflection of the firewall. I wouldn't suspect the hydraulic line or the master cylinder just yet.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
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From: Western Central NV
Try bleeding the hydraulic clutch system first since it is relatively easy to do. Then take a look at the firewall where the master cylinder mounts as you have someone else push the clutch checking for deflection of the firewall. I wouldn't suspect the hydraulic line or the master cylinder just yet.
Craig
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
I know the original post didn't say whether it was an internal or external slave, but the internal slaves don't come pre-bled but are not all that hard to bleed. Open bleeder, move pedal to floor, close bleeder, repeat several times to get most of the air out. Then pump the pedal a few times, hold it on the floor, open and close the bleeder, pull the pedal back up and repeat a few more times and it should be good to go.
The external slave is a little trickier, but I've read that since it doesn't have a bleeder, basically you unbolt the slave from the mounting bracket, turn it so the end where the line attaches is the highest point and move the pushrod in and out a few times to push the air up to the master cylinder. I've read that external slaves can be had in a pre-bled system, but I've never looked for one.
The external slave is a little trickier, but I've read that since it doesn't have a bleeder, basically you unbolt the slave from the mounting bracket, turn it so the end where the line attaches is the highest point and move the pushrod in and out a few times to push the air up to the master cylinder. I've read that external slaves can be had in a pre-bled system, but I've never looked for one.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
I know the original post didn't say whether it was an internal or external slave, but the internal slaves don't come pre-bled but are not all that hard to bleed. Open bleeder, move pedal to floor, close bleeder, repeat several times to get most of the air out. Then pump the pedal a few times, hold it on the floor, open and close the bleeder, pull the pedal back up and repeat a few more times and it should be good to go.
The external slave is a little trickier, but I've read that since it doesn't have a bleeder, basically you unbolt the slave from the mounting bracket, turn it so the end where the line attaches is the highest point and move the pushrod in and out a few times to push the air up to the master cylinder. I've read that external slaves can be had in a pre-bled system, but I've never looked for one.
The external slave is a little trickier, but I've read that since it doesn't have a bleeder, basically you unbolt the slave from the mounting bracket, turn it so the end where the line attaches is the highest point and move the pushrod in and out a few times to push the air up to the master cylinder. I've read that external slaves can be had in a pre-bled system, but I've never looked for one.
Craig
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2012
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countryshiz, mine does that too. Does double clutching work for you? That's how I've been getting by. I believe it to be a syncro. I vaguely remember reading that the ZF5 (I assume that is what you have) has reverse problems as it wears out. There's lots of info about it on this site.
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