I am putting together a spare parts kit for travel in Baja.
I will have spare alternator (the OEM that I replaced with a 190 Dc Power),starter, belt, hoses, coolant,oil, fuel filters, coolant filter, etc.

A Ford diesel tech said that it may be good to have a spare cam sensor (and one other -can't remember what he said), because they do go out.

Is the cam sensor hard to replace?

Any other things I need to consider?

Yes, we will be traveling with 2 or 3 vehicles

Thanks
Alan from San Diego

 

The cam sensor (CMP) is not too bad to replace. It is on the drivers side of the block directly behind where the lower radiator hose goes from the bottom of the radiator into the front cover. 8mm 6 pt bolt. Torque is 10 ft lbs. It is appx 6" long.

To replace you can either pull the air filter and try to get to it from the top side, but it is easier to get to from the bottom. You'll need a 16" extension and a wobble socket would work best.

The other one is the crank sensor (CKP)on the passenger side of the block. It lies buried between the ac compressor and the block. If that one goes. you had better hope you packed a lunch, cause its a bear to get out.

It is also a good idea to disconnect the negative battery ground and starter cable bracket from the block and move those aside. That is a 15mm and you'll need either a deep socket or a box end wrench. Not sure of the torque for those, I used the goodntight method.

The smart way is to pull the inner fender cover IF you pull the compressor but I got mine out going from underneath. A set of ratcheting box wrenches 10 mm and 13 mm are key. The back bolt is 13 mm and the front 2 are 10mm. When you get that out the crank sensor is also an 8mm 6 pt bolt torque is also 10 ft lbs. to reinstall the ac compressor you MUST put the back 13mm and front top 10mm bolt on the holes of the compressor and slide it into place. The crossmember will keep the 13mm from falling out when you slide it into position. Torque is 18 ft lbs for the ac compressor bolts.

I don't recall what i paid for each sensor, but i think they are 40 bucks or less for each. Good idea to keep a spare cause if they go, you ain't going nowhere.

I would go thru the top of the engine and check that all your sensors are tight b4 you go. And since you will be in the middle of basically nowhere, bring alot of tools.

 

Another good tool is a set or long angle needle nose pliers so you can grab the body and pull it out cause they are sealed with an o-ring which can make for a hard release especially at the awkward position your hand has to be in. But I did both the cam and crank sensors with out any other hardware removal in about an hour... be patient you don't wanna break it off in the block. Looking back the only thing I'd take off to make it easier would be the steering stabilizer and drag link.

 

Very good!
If one of them failed would my Scan Gauge give me a code for either one ?
I just ordered one
BTW when I get my Scan Gauge and it gives me a code how do I know what code is what? Or does it say what it is on The gauge or do I have to go to a source to interpret the code?

 

The scangauge is not very good at reading specific codes.

You would most likely need to have codes read at an autoparts store (or borrow their reader) or at the dealership.

 

Mine failed on a cold day in northern mn, a local mechanic suggested a hair dryer to heat this sensor up. It worked, let her run all the way home into the garage and replaced it the next day! With help i was under the truck and my helper with long arms was able to pull the senor out from above. It was easier to remove/install the bolt from below. Have good led flashlights, in case it happens when dark...