Question for M_Chan
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: East Tennessee
Question for M_Chan
Blade35
Better start researching best way to get the Crank sensor unhooked and hooked back up
M-Chan would be a Great Guy to hit up on the best way to go about it He probably has a Slick trick for that
He hasn't steered me wrong yet, so figure I better ask you, if there is a good way to to it?
Thanks
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Better start researching best way to get the Crank sensor unhooked and hooked back up
M-Chan would be a Great Guy to hit up on the best way to go about it He probably has a Slick trick for that
He hasn't steered me wrong yet, so figure I better ask you, if there is a good way to to it?
Thanks
<!-- / message -->
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I will assume you are asking this question is because you intend on going ahead to replace your entire main engine wiring to correct the problem you are having as described in your other thread. That said, I'm not going to tell you any other way, other than the way I do it. And that is to remove the drive belt tensioner, disconnect the main ground on the lower right side (right meaning passenger side) of the engine. That will give you the space needed to disconnect the A/C compressor from the engine block as needed to route the CKP sensor wiring in its original routing. Ditto on the CMP sensor wiring. You may find it easier to remove the EBP sensor bracket and thermostat housing for better access.
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From: East Tennessee
Should have been clear...Yes, I am just replacing the main harness. So what I am gathereing is disassemble of the front end of the truck, by removing the fan shroud, fan, AC compressor, groundwire, belt tensioner anything I have left out? Should have did whn I had all that off the first time...Who knew..... Thanks
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From: East Tennessee
I read something way back ago about a shim on the AC compressor some guys was removing.....While i am there, just thinking.....I cant remember exactly what the issue was though......
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Katy, TX
After 80-90K miles the clutch plate has worn so much that the air gap is sometimes greater than what the clutch magnet can overcome. By removing the spacer the clutch plate is back in spec. between .016 and .030. I just removed mine this weekend.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I didnt know you did all that work when we started this troubleshoot a few days ago
That old harness must of got pinched at some point
I am in same boat sometimes doing good If I only break 1 Part along the way
so when you changed that wire the other Day that was the first start since all the Work???
So Did the oil cooler you changed out was it dumping oil into the coolant????
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From: East Tennessee
Yup, did all the work my self....No was not the first start up, it ran but developed a miss, when got to normal operating temps would shut off, then did the FICM and wouldn't start at all...That's when the wire hunting began. The oil cooler was full of water.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Well it should be Half full water/coolant and other half Oil
But Normaly it fails and pumps OIL into the Coolant Thus your Darker coolant
the oil is Higher Pressure of the 2
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Did you flush the Cooling system since the Oil Cooler Purged the two diffrent fluids togetyher
Simple Green Cleaner flush???
Thats the worst way an Oil Cooler can Fail HUGE MESS on your hands
Simple Green Cleaner flush???
Thats the worst way an Oil Cooler can Fail HUGE MESS on your hands