6.0 no start
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Guys I think we are saying the same thing.
No base pressure no HP.
The link stated that they had no base/LPOP pressure. It was determined that the LPOP was bad and it was replaced along with a new pump and front cover.
That restored the base pressure but no HP. And then it goes on from there.
We don't know if there is a HP problem until the low pressure is restored.
The LPOP is self reliant. Meaning it operates on its own.
The only other obstruction from the LPOP and the filter housing is the oil cooler. Oil needs to make it through the oil cooler first before it enters the filter.
Barring a major catastrophe, the oil cooler may collect some debris but not neccessarily obstruct totally.
So I maintain that you could remove the HPOP, the stc, feed tube, oil rails, injectors, rocker arms, pushrods, and set them along the side of the truck, and if the LPOP system is working properly, it will pump oil to the oil filter housing.
So what can we do to get the base pressure working again for this guy.
That's what I'm trying to do.
No base pressure no HP.
The link stated that they had no base/LPOP pressure. It was determined that the LPOP was bad and it was replaced along with a new pump and front cover.
That restored the base pressure but no HP. And then it goes on from there.
We don't know if there is a HP problem until the low pressure is restored.
The LPOP is self reliant. Meaning it operates on its own.
The only other obstruction from the LPOP and the filter housing is the oil cooler. Oil needs to make it through the oil cooler first before it enters the filter.
Barring a major catastrophe, the oil cooler may collect some debris but not neccessarily obstruct totally.
So I maintain that you could remove the HPOP, the stc, feed tube, oil rails, injectors, rocker arms, pushrods, and set them along the side of the truck, and if the LPOP system is working properly, it will pump oil to the oil filter housing.
So what can we do to get the base pressure working again for this guy.
That's what I'm trying to do.
Yes Sir I AGREE with you
got to have LPO to make HPO
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
Did you do anything to the engine just prior to the no start such as change the oil and or filter?
There are a couple of things of issue here:
1. Make sure you have oil registering on the dip stick.
2. Interval of oil change. How often and what oil/filter did you use?
3. How many miles on the truck?
4. There could be an obstruction in the pickup.
5. Pick up o ring may have gone bad causing sucking of air.
6. Oil pump got damaged or is worn from high mileage or maintenance issues or particles in the system.
7. Also when you put the regulator back in could you start it by hand or did you have to force it in with much effort to catch some threads?
This is important as there could be a burr or a small obstruction you may have missed that is holding the regulator from going in all the way like it should at rest.
Either way, oil pump is probably easiest to inspect than pulling the pan down while still in the truck.
There are a couple of things of issue here:
1. Make sure you have oil registering on the dip stick.
2. Interval of oil change. How often and what oil/filter did you use?
3. How many miles on the truck?
4. There could be an obstruction in the pickup.
5. Pick up o ring may have gone bad causing sucking of air.
6. Oil pump got damaged or is worn from high mileage or maintenance issues or particles in the system.
7. Also when you put the regulator back in could you start it by hand or did you have to force it in with much effort to catch some threads?
This is important as there could be a burr or a small obstruction you may have missed that is holding the regulator from going in all the way like it should at rest.
Either way, oil pump is probably easiest to inspect than pulling the pan down while still in the truck.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I thought my link was something diffrent
I swear I had one that a HPO problem let the Oil just run threw the system so fast that there wasnt enough LPO to get a Reading (In this case they had Oil at the FILTER though)
Regaurdless there MUST be Oil Flowing to the Filter
Since the Poster Did NOT have any sign of oil at the filter the LPO System NEEDS to be ADDRESSED FIRST
I swear I had one that a HPO problem let the Oil just run threw the system so fast that there wasnt enough LPO to get a Reading (In this case they had Oil at the FILTER though)
Regaurdless there MUST be Oil Flowing to the Filter
Since the Poster Did NOT have any sign of oil at the filter the LPO System NEEDS to be ADDRESSED FIRST
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Sums it RIGHT UP^^^^Dont get any better than that
Any progress on the LPOP geting pulled for a Look???
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 21
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
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Senior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 145
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Are you in a position and have the mechanical ability and resources to pull the engine and do a rebuild yourself?
To say that the engine needs to be replaced may be premature.
$5,600.0 for a short block or $10,000.00- $11,000.00 for a long block kind a makes one take a second look at whether one can do the work themselves.
I just went through this recently and my thread is here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...noise-now.html
Run6.0run did one also but my thread was alot shorter.
Both have great info on total rebuilds.
If the lifter went, which sounds like it, the cam will need to come out which means the engine also will need to come out. So either way the engine is coming out.
So why not rebuild the one you have while it's sitting there for a big savings? That is if the block is not damaged or the pistons and cylinders are ok.
But still a look see at what you have once it's out is worth a look before deciding a new engine is in order.
This way you can also do the upgrades needed to make this engine is more dependable and reliable.
My total cost was around $2,700.00 for the parts and service done on the heads and cam. Big difference if you can do the work yourself.
It's not that difficult.
What state do you live in?
To say that the engine needs to be replaced may be premature.
$5,600.0 for a short block or $10,000.00- $11,000.00 for a long block kind a makes one take a second look at whether one can do the work themselves.
I just went through this recently and my thread is here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...noise-now.html
Run6.0run did one also but my thread was alot shorter.
Both have great info on total rebuilds.
If the lifter went, which sounds like it, the cam will need to come out which means the engine also will need to come out. So either way the engine is coming out.
So why not rebuild the one you have while it's sitting there for a big savings? That is if the block is not damaged or the pistons and cylinders are ok.
But still a look see at what you have once it's out is worth a look before deciding a new engine is in order.
This way you can also do the upgrades needed to make this engine is more dependable and reliable.
My total cost was around $2,700.00 for the parts and service done on the heads and cam. Big difference if you can do the work yourself.
It's not that difficult.
What state do you live in?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
Not to Hijack the thread, but with quite a few of these threads popping up about lifter failure, what is the cause of this? Is there anything that can be done to prevent this or is it just dumb luck? Or perhaps your engine was manufactured on a Wednesday and the guy torqueing the rocker arms was dreaming about the weekend and didn't do a good job?
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