I just have few questions that i have been trying to figure out and now i have a massive headache. What is the "10K mod" and what does it do? Also what is "shim FPR" and what does this do? How about "GPR switch"? Can i do these myself, do i buy some kind of unit, what do they do for power?

Also can anybody tell me what is involved in machining the intensifier pistons in the DIY injector stage 2 kit? How hard is it?

 

There is a ton of stuff on this site about the 10k and shimming the FPR. Just do a search and you will find what you need.

 

this is straihgt from Baz's

A 10k ohm resistor will raise the injection oil pressure approximately 200 psi. Increased injection pressure will deliver more fuel and will deliver more fuel sooner. This increase in fuel deliver and advance will yield higher combustion temperature but your exhaust gas temperature will remain almost steady. Such an efficient burn has it's down side. It will cause an idle rougher than stock. It may also cause the production of nitrous oxides. Thermal efficiency is a function of the high(absolute)temperature divided by low(absolute)temperature. In other words, the higher the peak combustion temperature in comparison to the exhaust temperature the more efficient is your engine.

Parts Needed
digital volt ohm meter
10k ohm resistor (1/2 or 1 watt)
2 fine copper wires 4" length
black tape
Procedure
1 Solder wire on resistor
2 Identify injection pressure sensor (on front of driver side cylinder head)
3 Test for voltage with key on and engine off

IPS has 3 connections:
+4.97V
+0.003V
+Output
Turn key off!
Connect resistor between output and 0.003V (do not cut any factory wires)
Slide fine wires into plug and reassemble
Cover bare wires with tape


I used a 1 watt .05 rated 10K resister. Soldered a 3" piece of wire on each side of the resister slide heat shrink over the entire part of the resister and about 1" of wire. Leave about 1" of the wire soldered on inside the heat shrink and seal each end to be sure with electrical tape. Then I stripped the wire back 1" I pulled out of the wire 5 strands and cut the rest away. Looking at the connector it looks like 2 eyes and a mouth put 1 wire in the right eye and the other in the mouth Blue/stripe and grey/stripe wire. I put the plug back into the ICP about 20 time until the check engine light did not come back on. If the check engine light comes back on you still have a open circuit. Just push it into there harder or pull it a part and put in again until no Check Engine Light comes on. It will if your work if you keep putting it in the plug and it seats.

REMOVE BEFORE DEALER SERVICE

The shimmed FPR is a mod you perform to your fuel pressure regulator which will raise injection pressures. Here's the info for it from Baz's page as well

Shimming the fitting with a 3/16 spacer behind the spring in the fuel regulator. This is located on the right hand side of the fuel filter. You will see a 3/4 brass nut there. The spring is inside there. Shimming will raise the fuel pressure and often give you a worthwhile increase in power and no one that I can recall has reported higher fuel consumption. Regulator is the 19 mm brass bolt, on the right side of your fuel filter housing. Unscrew the bolt, pull out the spring, pull out the housing with a magnet, put the bb inside the housing were the spring goes, put the housing back, put the spring back in and put the bolt back in, just make sure the little nipple on the bolt goes in the center of the spring and tighten it up.

Explaination of how to put the BB in the fuel regulator little better and clean the regulater screen
Get a regular BB, wait till your engine cools some and take the black cover off the top of your motor. This requires a 1/2 in deep socket and ratchet. There are 3 nuts on the cover. Next look at your fuel filter bowl and just to the right at the front will be a brass 19 mm plug on the fuel regulator. You will want to place a rag below this plug in case you drop anything. Next, remove the plug and place it on the top of your fuel filter housing using a 19 mm socket or wrench. You will now see a little spring that is exposed. Take a pair of small needle nose pliers and grasp the spring and pull it out of the regulator. Place it by your plug noting the way it came out. You will want to go back in with the same end that came out of the regulator side. Next, take a pencil tip magnet and be sure everything is clean on the magnet (we don't want metal shavings in there)....place the tip of the magnet in the hole and it will pull out the little tri-angular plunger that regulates the fuel pressure. Take the plunger off your magnet and look at the end of it. The end that has the hole is where you want to place the ball bearing. Take your ball bearing and drop it in the hole. When I did it the ball just fell in the hole. Take a little punch and make sure that it seats in the counter bore of the plunger. Not with a hammer, just pushing on it by hand will suffice. Next, make sure everything is clean and place the spring back in the plunger the way it came out. Place the plunger back into the regulator. The tri-angular shape will "FIT" into it's respected groove. DO NOT FORCE IT. Turn the plunger until it slides right in. Next, take the 19 mm plug and coat the o-ring with some oil or light grease so you will not damage the o-ring. Next, note the nipple on the end of the plug where the spring is centered. Be sure to get that nipple into the hole on the end of the spring or you will bend the spring and you have trouble. Push the plug toward the threads in the housing as it will be harder to push now, and screw your plug back into the regulator. DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE PLUG. Next tighten the plug back down snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Now its time to do the;

Fuel Regulator Screen Cleaning
The fix is simple. Take off the cover over the fuel filter, 1/2 socket does the job. Place a towel or shop rag under the fuel regulator!!!! There are two 10 mm bolts just to the right of the fuel filter, take both out making sure you put them back the way they came out. Gently pry the fuel regulator away from the fuel filter housing, making sure you don't drop the o-ring. You will see a small screen about 1/4 inch. Using a small screwdriver or q-tip w.out the cotton ball on the end, wipe the screen and then put everything back together. The material you get off the screen I have been told is from o-rings. The fix will only take 15 to 20 minutes. If you find the regulator is blocked, clean it, install new fuel filter, and it shouldn't need to be done again for 12 months.
Replace your black cover and you are ready for a test drive to see if you made any difference. You should definitely feel a difference in throttle response. You will actually have more boost pressure.

Hope this helps!

Cowboy Steve

 

thanks thats a great help my headache is subsiding HAHA

 

where do you get the"10k ohm resistor (1/2 or 1 watt) "??

 

Radio Shack

 

thabks guys for all of your input

 

one more question what is "SSX"?

 

I believe that is the stainless version of the HPX. Short for High Pressure Crossover. It's a line that connects both sides of the engine and ballances the oil pressure between the two for smoother and quieter operation. <a href="http://members.***.net/kcmdieselperformance/Ford%20SS%20HPX%20Crossover.htm">Click here to see the SSX.</a>

 

SSX is a Stainless Steel High Pressure Crossover.






http://members.***.net/kcmdieselperformance/Ford%20SS%20HPX%20Crossover.htm


It does the same thing as a HPX, which is made from a rubber hose with fittings on the end.

They both equalize the high pressure oil in both heads. Most people report a smoother idle and less engine noise.

 

Your to fast for me 10bands.

 

thanks you guys there is so much knowledge out there it is mind blowing!!

 

yet it is all so damn good its ridiculous!

Cowboy Steve

 

Now you're starting to catch on.