2006 6.0 started ran about 10 sec. quit,low oil pressure shown on dash won't start back.

 

Start by checking to see if you have oil being pumped up to the oil filter housing. Pull the filter out and close off the drain back valve with a long screw driver. Its the black button valve at about the 1:00/2:00 position.

Have someone crank the engine and see if the housing fills up with oil. If not then you narrowed it down to a LPOP issue. Take out the LPOP regulator but be careful. There's a spring in there.

If the regulator spindle is stuck, there could be alot of tension on the spring. The cap/plug could come flying off the housing.

These regulators do stick in the open position causing the oil pressure to dump back into the oil pan.

I had one do this exact same thing including the low oil pressure on the cluster panel. Regulator was stuck.

Let us know what you find....

 

tried cranking with filter out and back flow button held down ,no oil to be seen. where is LPOP regulator located.

 

Get yourself a 12mm hex key (allen wrench).

Right behind the harmonic damper you'll see the regulator plug pointing down toward the passenger side. Granted it may be a little tight to get to but there she is.

The photo shows the cover which is located directly behind the damper. Look closely toward the 7:00 position. You can see the shiney plug.

Carefully remove the plug. Again BE CAREFUL. If the plug fights you all the way out the regulator is stuck compressing the spring.

Once the plug is out, remove the spring, if it hasn't removed itself.

The regulator is in the housing. I took a piece of music wire, which is a stiff piece of 20 gauge wire and bent a 90 degree bend at both ends. One as a grip to pull with and the other end to carefully reach in and get one of the holes in the side wall.

Then pull the regulator out. Sometimes you can stick your finger in and grab it and twist it out. Depends how tight it is bound up.

I'll grab a picture for you of the assembly to show you what it looks like.

Once out take a look and feel of the regulator and the sleeve in the housing where it rides in and see if there is some debris causing the bind.

I'll have more shortly..

 

Here's what the regulator assembly looks like.

Notice the holes on the side of the regiulator.

I have replaced this on my truck last summer when mine went down with the same symptoms like yours.

What is the maintanance history of your truck? Oil intervals, what type of oil used etc... what the truck is used for?

These engines like clean oil and fuel at all times. So Oil, oil filter and fuel filter changes are critical and stay away from after market crap for these engines.

I always use OEM filters and parts to be on the safe side.


Let us know what you find with the regulator.

Just so you know. When you put the regulator back in, push it all the way back and when you screw the plug back in you should be able to start it by hand.
So if you find it hard coming out to the end, it's not working smoothly.

 

King air , would this be a product of too heavy weight of oil and not changeing time frame, the small holes in the plunger + spring Issuie looks like could be a problem .Thanks for your Input and pics

 

I removed plug ,spring and sleave, cleaned everything ,put everything back together still no oil.suspect oil pup.

 

well thats No Good

We all fear this type of breakdown its usually not cheap or simple

 

Did you do anything to the engine just prior to the no start such as change the oil and or filter?

There are a couple of things of issue here:

1. Make sure you have oil registering on the dip stick.
2. Interval of oil change. How often and what oil/filter did you use?
3. How many miles on the truck?
4. There could be an obstruction in the pickup.
5. Pick up o ring may have gone bad causing sucking of air.
6. Oil pump got damaged or is worn from high mileage or maintenance issues or particles in the system.
7. Also when you put the regulator back in could you start it by hand or did you have to force it in with much effort to catch some threads?

This is important as there could be a burr or a small obstruction you may have missed that is holding the regulator from going in all the way like it should at rest.

Either way, oil pump is probably easiest to inspect than pulling the pan down while still in the truck.

 

Also big HPOP leaks can cause a no start with no pressure showing on the dash too...

 

The op reported that he has no oil being pumped up to the filter housing while cranking with the drain back valve closed.

If the LPOP system was working it would fill the housing in only a few seconds.

If the oil pressure was good at the first stage then yes we would move on to the next area such as the HPOP, IPR, ICP, screen in the valley under the oil cooler, etc.......

 

Right, and I have had hpop leaks do just that.

 

Here is one case of this to Support what Dave is saying here


HPO BB 03-04 BLOWN OUT WITH NO BASE LPO READING
No Base oil Pressure - Page 4 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Never mind .




.

 

Guys I think we are saying the same thing.

No base pressure no HP.

The link stated that they had no base/LPOP pressure. It was determined that the LPOP was bad and it was replaced along with a new pump and front cover.

That restored the base pressure but no HP. And then it goes on from there.

We don't know if there is a HP problem until the low pressure is restored.

The LPOP is self reliant. Meaning it operates on its own.

The only other obstruction from the LPOP and the filter housing is the oil cooler. Oil needs to make it through the oil cooler first before it enters the filter.

Barring a major catastrophe, the oil cooler may collect some debris but not neccessarily obstruct totally.

So I maintain that you could remove the HPOP, the stc, feed tube, oil rails, injectors, rocker arms, pushrods, and set them along the side of the truck, and if the LPOP system is working properly, it will pump oil to the oil filter housing.

So what can we do to get the base pressure working again for this guy.

That's what I'm trying to do.