i dont know if anybody else has tried this, but my local diesel mechanic MALONE DIESEL told me that if you put a daisy BB at the end of the spring in the fuel pressure regulator that a lot of the turbo lag will dissapear in the lower RPM's.

me and my buddy tried it on his truck and noticed somewhat of a difference.

from what we can tell it was worth the pocket change and 10 minutes of time it took to do it.

i would suggest it to others.

 

From Steve Baz site:

3/16 BB in the regulator (low fuel pressure) Should be 60lbs to 85lbs
Regulator is the 19 mm brass bolt, on the right side of your fuel filter housing. Unscrew the bolt, pull out the spring, pull out the housing with a magnet, put the bb inside the housing were the spring goes, put the housing back, put the spring back in and put the bolt back in, just make sure the little nipple on the bolt goes in the center of the spring and tighten it up.



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Explaination of how to put the BB in the fuel regulator little better and clean the regulater screen
Get a regular BB, wait till your engine cools some and take the black cover off the top of your motor. This requires a 1/2 in deep socket and ratchet. There are 3 nuts on the cover. Next look at your fuel filter bowl and just to the right at the front will be a brass 19 mm plug on the fuel regulator. You will want to place a rag below this plug in case you drop anything. Next, remove the plug and place it on the top of your fuel filter housing using a 19 mm socket or wrench. You will now see a little spring that is exposed. Take a pair of small needle nose pliers and grasp the spring and pull it out of the regulator. Place it by your plug noting the way it came out. You will want to go back in with the same end that came out of the regulator side. Next, take a pencil tip magnet and be sure everything is clean on the magnet (we don't want metal shavings in there)....place the tip of the magnet in the hole and it will pull out the little tri-angular plunger that regulates the fuel pressure. Take the plunger off your magnet and look at the end of it. The end that has the hole is where you want to place the ball bearing. Take your ball bearing and drop it in the hole. When I did it the ball just fell in the hole. Take a little punch and make sure that it seats in the counter bore of the plunger. Not with a hammer, just pushing on it by hand will suffice. Next, make sure everything is clean and place the spring back in the plunger the way it came out. Place the plunger back into the regulator. The tri-angular shape will "FIT" into it's respected groove. DO NOT FORCE IT. Turn the plunger until it slides right in. Next, take the 19 mm plug and coat the o-ring with some oil or light grease so you will not damage the o-ring. Next, note the nipple on the end of the plug where the spring is centered. Be sure to get that nipple into the hole on the end of the spring or you will bend the spring and you have trouble. Push the plug toward the threads in the housing as it will be harder to push now, and screw your plug back into the regulator. DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE PLUG. Next tighten the plug back down snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Now its time to do the;


Fuel Regulator Screen Cleaning

The fix is simple. Take off the cover over the fuel filter, 1/2 socket does the job. Place a towel or shop rag under the fuel regulator!!!! There are two 10 mm bolts just to the right of the fuel filter, take both out making sure you put them back the way they came out. Gently pry the fuel regulator away from the fuel filter housing, making sure you don't drop the o-ring. You will see a small screen about 1/4 inch. Using a small screwdriver or q-tip w.out the cotton ball on the end, wipe the screen and then put everything back together. The material you get off the screen I have been told is from o-rings. The fix will only take 15 to 20 minutes. If you find the regulator is blocked, clean it, install new fuel filter, and it shouldn't need to be done again for 12 months.


Replace your black cover and you are ready for a test drive to see if you made any difference. You should definitely feel a difference in throttle response. You will actually have more boost pressure.

 

a lot of us are running this mod...

before you ever do it you want to clean the fpr screen and then take a reading on the schraeder valve. ideally you want your pressure around 75psi... before i shimmed mine it was 48 and after shim it was 69.

 

will a regular fuel pressure gauge fit the valve or is it different then gas?

 

i used an old tire pressure gauge... a plumbed fuel pressure gauge would be fine probably good to get a 0-100 psi.
you have to take out the schraeder valve(valve stem thingy) to plumb it... many have done it.

 

Why is it ideal to have around 75lbs vs the stock setting? Once the mod is done what happens? Is this what is called shiming the fpr?

 

The idea behind a little bit higher fuel pressure is that when the injector fires with the higher fuel pressure, you'll get a little bit more fuel into the cylinder. More fuel = more power & more boost. As the last line of my Steve Baz site quote stated: "You should definitely feel a difference in throttle response. You will actually have more boost pressure."

Yes this is the same thing as "shimming" the fpr. Shimming uses a 3/16 washer, the BB method uses a 3/16 BB. This is also from Steve Baz site on shimming the fpr:

Shim the fuel regulator

Shimming the fitting with a 3/16 spacer behind the spring in the fuel regulator. This is located on the right hand side of the fuel filter. You will see a 3/4 brass nut there. The spring is inside there. Shimming will raise the fuel pressure and often give you a worthwhile increase in power and no one that I can recall has reported higher fuel consumption.

 

Another idea from Steve Baz site:

Permanent Fuel Pressure Gauge

Something else to do is to buy a fuel pressure gauge out of JEG's and just have it permanently attached all the time. You can unscrew the schrader valve and just screw in a fuel pressure gauge. You can buy them for up to 100-160 psi.

 

if you dont want to shim it using a cap screw and nut... i would use a bb... works well...


if you dont want to do either of those.. for the 97 CALIFORNIA trucks they made some parts for the fpr that will have you running at the perfect pressure... i believe its around 25 bucks or so... if need be i can get you the part #

 

hey guys is shimming the fpr the same as doing the BB thing? Just wondering...

 

Yes, shimming uses a 3/16" shim, the BB method uses a 3/16" BB.

 

will this mod work on a 99 p/s???

 

there is a fpr shim mod for the 99-03 trucks but i think it is a little different..make a new thread upstairs and ask..good folks up there.

 

thanks... 1997F-350

 

my79f, I never looked at your gallery, but that's a good lookin truck. Only other one I know of that clean is Mr. Puryear's red and white one. Have you seen it? It's clean. Yes, the fpr shim is a good thing. Did yall ever do anything with your intakes after I saw yall the other night? Just curios. See ya at Jaks.

RubberDuck