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Yah as long as it fixes everything I don't mind paying lol. He said the passenger side was 4.9 hours. Earlier he told me that both sides were about 9 hours. Said he's going to start on it Monday morning and hopefully ill have it back that evening and ill give you a update berry. Thanks again for all your help.
dont waste your money or time on anything else except this!! I had the same problem in my 2006 Expedition. Be prepared to spend 500-600 bucks. call around on which ford dealer has the removal spark plug kit from ford. YOU NEED NEW SPARK PLUGS. A common problem with ford engines. The ceramic part of plugs break off, so the spark is is interemittiant. I had new plugs installed, the truck ran like it was new...was amazing how much power, and no hesitation,no jerking...motor ran like new again, I was amazed that this was spark plugs that caused this problem. any mis fires codes...this is your problem. I has multiple codes in the cylinders back and forth and would go away, then check engine light would come on and then go away, anytime you accelerate this would activate the issues. change your plugs!! Not your self...need a special tool, because the plugs break off..thanks, good luck!
Originally Posted by jamull2852
My wife has a 2007 Expedition Limited with 126k miles on it. It started to shake around 40mph a few months ago and only seemed like it would happen when trying to go up a bridge or pass a car. I thought it might be the Coil over packs and took it to a mechanic and he tested it and it showed nothing. He changed the fuel filter and put a cleaner in the gas tank and it did feel better for a few weeks until the shaking started to come back. Well the check engine light came on and I tested it at autozone and it said Misfire cylinder #4. THen the light cleared. So now I dont know if its the sparkplug or the coil over pack. She just called me while Im at work and said as she was backing into the drive way it started to shake really bad and make a loud spudder noise but she said it was hard to explain the sound. I never felt or heard this while going to slow into a drive way. What could it be? its driving me crazy at work not knowing if the motor is shot or not.
Cliffs
-2007 expedition
-126k miles
-Shakes and spudders at 40mph when passing/going up hill
-engine light showing misfire on cylinder #4
- tonight it started to shake really bad and make a loud noise just backing into the drive way.
Yes thanks man but I just changed all 8 plugs and COP's. had a new ticking problem after that. Read entire post for more details. My mechanic only charged me around $250 to
Change the plugs and COP, not including parts
I just did mine today. Had same hesitation problem as you. I used the Motorcraft plugs SP515 I believe. They are now welded where the ones prior to 11/2007 were just crimped. Mine was built 2/2007 so of course 2 of them broke. I made sure the local Carquest had the tool prior to starting this project. It is the Lisle 65600. Cost there was $110 vs $92 at Advance auto who did not have it on the shelf. While removing the broken plugs I discovered that it is possible to push the ceramic portion in too far and cause the tab at the end of the plug to break off as well as push the ceramic portion into the motor. I was lucky enough that I only cracked one tab and nothing got into the motor. I say this because I have read on other forums for other cars that tabs have broken off and caused damage to the cylinder and created noises in the motor. Is it possible this happened to you and took a week for the damage to get bad enough for the noise to show up? I will post some info in case anyone searches for this problem in the future. The factory manual says not to change the plugs on a hot or warm engine and that it should be at room temperature. Crack the plug loose approx 1/8th of a turn and then fill the plug hole with carb cleaner up to the top of the plug nut (approx 3/16"). Then wait at least 15 minutes for the cleaner to work its way down into the hole and loosen the carbon that has probably frozen the bottom of the plug into the head. I found it best if I then re-tightened the plug and loosened it 1/8th turn again to ensure it was free enough to allow the cleaner to penetrate. If I could do it again I would let the cleaner sit in the motor overnight. The manual says not to use more than 33 ft lbs when removing the plugs. It says to loosen a little and then tighten a little through out the removal process to prevent damage to the threads. Some came right out and others were in tight enough that I was concerned that the threads might get damaged. The new plugs say to install to 23-27 ft lbs. There is no more hesitation off the line but I feel an occasional slight vibration at low rpm on the highway so I re installed the old Motorcraft #4 coil that I replaced just a week prior to the plug swap and it got worse so I put the new one back in and will now replace the remaining 7 coils. I originally took it to the dealer and they wanted $450 to do only 2 cops and 2 plugs plus the $112 diagnostic fee. That would be $1800 for all 8. So I paid the $112 and opted to do it myself. Glad I did as all 8 plugs were shot. You got a great price at $250 for labor assuming his labor didn't result in additional damage to your motor. Good luck with the repair, hope it works out for you.
Wow cooln thanks for all the info but as far as I know he didnt break any plugs bc he showed and asked me if I wanted the old parts meaning the 8 plugs and COP and their were right in front of me all together plus he chargers I think $100 if one breaks. But he did have me drop it off the night before to put a cleaner in the plugs like you mentioned. He said he lets it sit over night then apply a dome cleaner in the morning then right before lunch tackles the job. He seems to be a real nice and honest guy running his own shop and the three people who recommended a mechanic to me recommended him. I'm wondering if when he changed my oil if by him using a different oil filter or different brand oil didnt have anything to do with it? Thanks again for all the info.
Mechanic just called and said he torn the passenger side down and their was no oil in the passenger side of the motor. He's now trouble shooting to see why it's not getting flow to it.
Ok I just got off the phone with him and he said we getting oil to the driver side and not to the passenger side. He said the oils transfer from the driver to passenger side (well that's what it's suppose to do.) He said their is an orifice between the driver side to the passenger side and thinks its plugged but he can't find it. He's called a few shops that work on motors and no one knows where it's at. So he said he's not giving up yet and is going to keep digging into it.