Hey all, this my first post here since I just bought my first Ford idi! I've owned a couple 24v Dodge's, but never really worked on diesel's. My truck is a reg cab 91 f250 4x4 e4od auto. Body is OK, normal rust over the rear wheels, and a little on the front fenders behind the wheels. Mileage is un known. I gave $1500 for it. I guess it was a fair price. It had new rear wheel cylinder on it when I bought it, but I changed the master cylinder, front calipers, all three flex lines, drivers side e brake cable, and pads and shoes. The glow plugs were only staying on for about 2 seconds, so I changed them out. Someone had used autolite ones, and I couldn't get the one out of cyl #7. After reading on here, I decided to screw it back in and leave it. The system stays on now for about 8 sec. I went back the bereu plugs. The truck has an ATS Turbo on it, but I don't hear any whine. Is that normal for an idi with a Turbo? I had to use a piece of heater hose with an elbow molded into it to re connect the cdr. Now, when I take the top of the air box off and take the filter out, there is some oil in the bottom of the air box. I took the cdr off of the air box and cleaned it out. I assume its the original one since it has grey paint on it. I also assume that the injectors and ip are original since they are also grey. What is the normal life span of the ip and injectors? After really connecting the cdr, I noticed oil vapor coming from around the dipstick. Is this normal? Or does it mean that the crank case isn't venting properly? Maybe it did it before, I'm not sure. I also think I now hear lifter noise. I was worried that I might have a rod knock after changing out the glow plugs. The plug that was in Cylinder #6 had about 1/8" of the tip missing. I don't think I broke it off though, since I had no resistance in screwing it and it just lifted out. Maybe I'm just getting used to how the engine sounds. It makes so much noise, I don't know if I would be able to identify a rod knock. Is it REAL obvious when you have a rod knock in these engines? I didn't know anything about checking the sca levels in the coolant, but after finding out I checked, and they are high. Guess that's better than none or low, but I guess a flush and fill is in order. Are high levels indicative of any other problems? Any other things to do, or watch out for with this truck? The tranney shudders when shifting into 3rd, but real firm, almost hard in the other gears. You guys think I got an OK deal on this truck? Is it worth spending any more money on, or should I quit while I'm ahead? Seems like a fairly solid truck, but I dono anything about these idi's.

 

welcome to FTE.
that one old burned out glow plug may give you some problems down the road, depending on the outside temperature.
injectors and injector pump life is between 100,000 and 150,000 miles.

how did you clean the CDR? if the diaphragm is bad the engine wll suck oil, making you burn oil

 

I just rinsed it in a can of gas and let it air dry. How would I know if it were bad? As far as injectors go, do you need different ones with a Turbo? I'm not sure what's in it, but they are the factory grey? Is a three inch exhaust enough with a Turbo on these trucks? The ATS system that's on the truck has it three inch from the Turbo on back, and its not a "squished" down pipe. Any advice on how to get that one glow plug out other than pull the head? It unscrews all the way and will wiggle up and down about 1/8". I got the piston to tdc, and tried prying it out while I had my air ratchet on it, covered it with a blanket and cranked it, and then eventually started it and ran it and it still wouldn't come out!

 

the 3 inch exhaust will be fine.
with the turbo on there,, that glow plug is a bear to remove even if it is not swollen tip.
if the truck starts ok for you, i would not worry about it for now.
the turbo injectors are the BB code i believe, but the stock injectors will work fine also.
as far as the CDR goes, someone will be along shortly that can answer that one.
i just replace them when it is time. i usually put a new one in every 150,000 to 200,000 miles
my 88 is on it's third CDR.

 

If nobody else chimes in I would search on Google or this forum. I've never changed mine yet but I've done some research. There's some articles on other forums. They say to spray with penetrating oil and let sit then twist and pull with pliers, repeat as necessary. There's a tool that uses a split nut that you put on the threads and turn it down against the head to force it out. Also there was a article where someone made there own by cutting a nut in half. Here's a link for the tool. OTC Diesel Glow Plug Removal Tool Set at Arizona Tools And here's a link to avoid pulling the head if the tip breaks off. "Glow plug removal article"

 

Ive heard on the swollen tips that you want to try and thread the tip out, pull up on it, and see if it will bite the threads and just thread out, but if it dont or it breaks off, youre pulling the head. So your choice on whether you want to mess with it or not. It could lower the life span of the other plugs and cause harder starts.

As far as injectors, any code would work, but make sure you get a quality matched set, like these --> Injectors they also have pumps for the performance minded.

The CDR can be checked with a vaccuum, stick the vaccuum hose on the intake side and your hand lightly on the other, if it sucks closed your gtg.

Which turbo do you have exactly? ATS offered 3 different models, most common being the 093 which is wastegated, the older 088 and 085 are non gated. Pull the air filter lid and check for shaft play. Our 088 screamed after it was rebuilt, but now about 150k later you cant really tell its there.

 

Well, I think I'm gonna just leave the stuck plug there for now. I might end up pulling the heads some time this summer and freshen things up and do a stud kit since I have the Turbo. And get the stuck plug out then. I'll check the cdr with my shop vac later on this week. How do I find info on what Turbo I have? Is it stamped on it, or is there a tag or something on it? Thanks for the help guys!

 

OK, the #'s on my Turbo are H730441, and after doing a little digging found out that it's a 088 non waste gated turbo. The shaft on the intake side has a small amount of side play, but I don't think that its enough to allow the blades to contact the housing. Does this mean that it's worn out and needs to be rebuilt? If it does, would it be better to upgrade to a different turbo? I'm used to hearing the turbo whistle in other trucks, but I don't hear it in this truck. Is this normal with this turbo, or does it mean that it isn't working?