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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

replacing the Gerotor

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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #1  
devils toy's Avatar
devils toy
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Mountain Pass
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From: Las Vegas, Nv
replacing the Gerotor

I had a severe oil leak coming from behind the balancer. So I tore the front of the motor apart off and replace the timing cover cover gasket to all seals. Now when i got the new gasket set, it had the oil seal with a wear ring (i guess) with it . After doing some reading. The ring didnt come installed from factory. Every site I could find information says DO NOT separate the seal and ring. Why? It also states to use a special tool to install the ring. Now I'm old school it was gonna heat up the ring in the oven and install it. Like timing gears on my big block chevy. Anyone done this before. 177,000 miles on clock, early 04 6.0
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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CPB1
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I think this what you are talking about.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-pics-65.html
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:55 PM
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Mountain Pass
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Yup thats the tool. Can I heat up the ring and slip it on the crank snout then install the oil seal on the gerotor cover? Or is the tool determine how far the ring goes on?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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dannyboy950
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Do your self a favor buy; rent or borrow the tool. 7 out of 10 times you will fubar something trying to install without it.

The ring is thin and flimsy and useually will distort when heated.

For FYI the ring is not on a origional install because it's purpose is to create a flat true wear surface for the seal, it is to cover up any wear spots on the crank. A new crank has a true wear surface.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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devils toy
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Mountain Pass
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OK in Vegas the tool was not available for rent nor one could not be borrowed. All dealerships had same answer...Nooo. So I heated it up and got it on most of the way and then I used the balancer to push it on the rest of the way. Took my time to keep it going on even and it is on and seated. With no distortions. I think if i heated the snout a little bit with maybe a hair dryer or heat gun I may have got it on most of the way.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 07:17 PM
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CPB1
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What Run6.0Run did is loctite the ring to the crank.

So now the seal needs go on straight and you should be good.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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I put those in a oven. We hav 1 in my office. Start it with a 5 in by 5 inch 2by4. Tap it on ther as fast as u can. Finish it with a rubber mallet. The seal is made close to the back anyway. If u booger it up a bit,use a fine file to get the nicks out. I set my oven to 300°.....it has worked for me numerous times.....or just buy the tool
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by devils toy
Yup thats the tool. Can I heat up the ring and slip it on the crank snout then install the oil seal on the gerotor cover? Or is the tool determine how far the ring goes on?
No,when u bolt the lpop cover back on. If i can remember it pushes it back to were it needs to be. Everything shud be flush. Ring flush with balencer. And dont recess the seal. Make the seal flush. Let the bolts push it were it needs to be.... Its hard to explain. When u get it apart you will see what im talkin about...as well as evry one else. Like nike! Just do it!
 
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