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Good info. Pennzoil used to be Honeywell (Fram), but no longer. The Champion Labs new design (AC, STP and others) is a disappointment. The expensive K&N doesnt look impressive, at least for the price. WIX seems to make the best one, other than Motorcraft.
I use Motorcraft even in the Toyota (FL910S). It does not have the funny end flutes, for which no one other than the Ford dealer has a wrench, but matches the Denso OE Toyota filter (made by Purolator) style.
I kind of like GM's approach of putting the bypass valve in the engine instead of depending on a cheap one in the filter. That way the thin shell never sees high pressure as well as the potential problem shown of picking up dirt. German car makers do the same.
I kind of like GM's approach of putting the bypass valve in the engine instead of depending on a cheap one in the filter. That way the thin shell never sees high pressure as well as the potential problem shown of picking up dirt. German car makers do the same.
+1 for GM. Also +1 for GM for real oil pressure gauges.
Ahhh the bypass valve picking up dirt that holds it open!!!! Now there is an idea I've not heard postulated before.
The dome end bypass valve design would be more susceptible to this. Especially if the filter is mounted on an angle where solids like carbon or sludge would collect in the dome corner, or one is cleaning a sludged up engine, or doing a decarbon proceedure, which would have the solids want to collect in the dome end, or be washed there off the filter media after a high rpm cold start, or when we get crazy & go WOT when we're in a hurry!!!
In the completely inverted mounted filter as Ford mounts most of its filters, with the closed/dome end down, it may not be as much of a problem, as debris would likey be more evenly spread over the bottom of the filter dome, BUT turbulence during bypass flow might stir something loose & suck it into or through the bypass valve & the engine main bearings are the next stop!!!!
I'm sure Ford had a number of very good reasons for the threaded end bypass valve in their inverted or angle mounting of full flow oil filters & this could very likely be one of them!!!!
Thanks for the info. But I do wonder how much of the "disadvantages" are truly an issue. I'm presuming I change my oil before the sludge occurs. I'd also like to see the comparison with Fram Ultra.
I'm presuming I change my oil before the sludge occurs. I'd also like to see the comparison with Fram Ultra.
I bet if you cut open a used filter you'll find at least some.
Some of my vehicles have canister type filters and when I change the oil at 3-5,000 miles I find some in the lower corner when I remove the element.
Thanks for the info. But I do wonder how much of the "disadvantages" are truly an issue. I'm presuming I change my oil before the sludge occurs. I'd also like to see the comparison with Fram Ultra.
Why don't you buy a Fram Ultra, cut it open & post the photos here for comparison???
There are other deposits besides sludge, like carbon, varnish pieces, wear metals that can be washed off the media during bypass, or collect there & be swirled up when the bypass valve opens & be pulled into the engine oiling circuit. If large enough they can cause mischief.
The open/threaded base end filter design sorta makes that less of a possibility, unless a chunk just happens by when the base end bypass opens!!!! The base end bypass is more complicated & expensive to make, so the closed end bypass valve being less complicated to produce & less expensive to make, helps the filter mfgrs bottom line & he makes more profit using the less expensive design!!!!
Only filters I use anymore are Motorcraft (FL1A and FL-820s) have not found anything better for the money. If for some reason I can't get a Motorcraft next would be the Purolator Pure One which is basically the same filter with a higher pleat count. The Pure One just runs $3 more than the MC.
There are other deposits besides sludge, like carbon, varnish pieces, wear metals that can be washed off the media during bypass, or collect there & be swirled up when the bypass valve opens & be pulled into the engine oiling circuit. If large enough they can cause mischief.
Even if you don't have sludge in the dome end, at cold startup, if the oil pressure is higher than the bypass valve setting, then oil is flowing across the dirty side of the media then back in to your engine. If the bypass valve is in the dome end.
I've been using Wix for years and for $4.50 for a 51515, I'm not looking to change. Though last year I did get a case of Baldwin B2's for $3.50 each. I haven't seen any better for even 3 times the price.
While not specificly mentioned but fairly obvious from the comparisons shown, the NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix and are identical except for the paint job on the can . Occasionally NAPA have their filters on sale for pretty good prices.
While the NAPA Gold oil filters may "look" physically like & or be manufactured by Wix, no telling by looks, to what specification its, or any other filter mfgrs filter media is made, unless they publish the specs, or say in writing that they meet or exceed our vehicle mfgr specs, so we need to be mindful of all that when we choose anyones filter!!!!!
A likely example of why Ford chose to use the base/open end oil filter by-pass valve design/location, rather than the dome/closed end design, scroll down to photo #11 & note what's floating in the oil puddled there. MC FL-820s | 10,020 Miles | 5 Months | Cut Open - Bob Is The Oil Guy
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