Hello FTE family. I have decided to offer a small consolidation of useful info pertaining to many of our vehicles. These are important things anyone who owns or works on certain models/years needs to know, and may be difficult to find. I call them secret hand shakes. You know what they are, touch your nose while standing on one foot, press this secret combo of buttons and viola! All is well again.

First, this info helped me in diagnosing and fixing several issues on my 2000 Explorer Eddie B 4.0l Auto. I know this info crosses over to many vehicles, I just have no idea how many. So, my disclaimer is....this info worked on my specific model. No guarantees, expressed, implied or even hinted at that it will work for you.

For me this started with changing the intake seals. Upon completion I reconnected the battery and started it up. Great no problems.....except the clicking in the dash. What the heck is that? I check it out and find that it’s the Blend Door Actuator making noise. Ok, disconnected the actuator for now and restart... wait....it won’t turn over now.

Turns out it would have been helpful to know the secret hand shake involved with Fords PATS / Alarm system. If you do not follow the procedure, your vehicle (well, mine) will lock out the starter after a minute of inactivity. Not only that, but it seems to flip out the HVAC controls. So now my truck won’t turn over and my dash clicks something horrible.

So, thanks to Boat Tug here on FTE, we have the secret hand shake for reinitializing the PATS and Alarm system.

Originally posted by member Boat Tug on ford-trucks.com

“Disconnect the battery. Wait 2 minutes for the module to lose all traces of voltage. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Reconnect the battery. Shut the key OFF and press LOCK on the drivers door switch. It's called reinitializing the alarm.”

Worked like a charm. Wish I knew that a lot sooner.

Ok, back to my personal nightmare. It now runs GREAT. After reconnecting the blend door actuators connector I was pleased to find it clicked no more. Later that evening I was displeased to find I had no heat. Back online I go to find the most common issues.


I settled on the blend door its self, the actuator or an issue with the controller module (whatever and where ever that may be) because of the recent click issue. I pulled the actuator out and checked the door. It’s fine. I plugged in the actuator and fired up the AC. Switched it from full heat to Max AC and the actuator did not move. BINGO!

A quick call to Oreilly’s and I have a Dorman replacement waiting for me. I picked it up and plugged it in. No actuator movement. What in the world NOW? I look around some more online and see that MANY people claim the Dorman replacement doesn’t work. Well....great. Then I find the following GEM of a secret hand shake.....

Originally posted by member RobertA from explorerforum.com

”Listed below is the EATC Module Self Test instructions that I followed. Also, if you don't have an actuator from the dealer, I recommend to get one. The one that I got from Doorman did not work for me nor for a colleague of mine.

By the way the DTC code that I got from running this test was 025, which is Intermittent Run - time Fault for hte Blend door actuator. You might also get a DTC code of 024, which is Self-Test Fault for the blend door actuator. If there is a fault a three digit number will be displayed where the temperature is usually displayed on the ATC. Good Luck

• lThe EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.

• The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4º-32ºC (40-90ºF) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.

• The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.

• To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

• If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.

• If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.

• To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).

• To exit self-test and clear all diagnostic trouble codes, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.

• Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

• Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.”


Who knew the freaking HVAC system had a secret hand shake??? RobertA did, apparently. And it was what I needed. I can only GUESS as to what happens here. My theory is that the HVAC controller/computer (EACT?) needs to in someway learn and calibrate to the new blend door actuator. Many people have posted that OEM parts go in and work as is and should only be used, and just as many say that lower quality replacement outright don’t work. I am here before you telling you that today I put in the $21 Dorman Actuator and, after simply running through the above DTC sequence, it works flawlessly. Mine did not give me any codes, but it seems to have learned or sync’d with the new actuator by doing this.

Just a little ‘nugget’ of knowledge.


Finally, another on my ‘who knew’ list. We all know the cruise control issues on these particular models/years. There is a Ford recall/TSB 2 amp fuse inline pigtail fix, and replace the pressure switch on the master cylinder etc. But how do you know if the switch is bad? Or the Speed control servo? Well, enter the secret hand shake for the cruise control system.....

Originally posted by member zebot on expedition forums.com

“Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

— 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

— 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.

4. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.


Unfortunately for me this one did not help. My module is fried. It’s a rare thing, but sometimes the cruise module in the steering wheel will let out a little wisp of smoke. And just like that, poof....no cruise control. That’s what mine did. I think I have found one other case of that. Anyhow I have no intention of getting into the steering wheel for that, so it’s forever dead unless the next own REALLY wants in bad enough to deal with it.

I am sorry I don’t have lists of all the possible trouble codes that these different systems produce. Nor any idea what models and years this covers. But with some research I’m sure they can be found. Hope this helps someone!!

 

Thanks for taking the time to post so others may learn.

This is the reason why I hate new cars. Simple things are made complicated and this is called progress. Just because you can put more software and technology in cars doesn't mean you should. If the software folks only had to live by the same rules as mechanical guys, then new cars wouldn't be so bad. I'm keeping my old cars for as long as I can.

 

Lol. Tell me about it. This particular explorer was given to me. I'm currently selling it and will be turning that money into a smog exempt (75 or older in CA) truck with a small block. I have no need for all of its inconvenient convenience's. My idea of convenient is still having the **** on a window crank. Remember when the only way to lock a car was with a key?

I'm getting old.

EDIT: I breifly considered afixing a bell crank on the blend door and using a good old cable. Would have lasted longer than the explorer!

 

I didn't notice which side of my mouth I must hold my tongue or how long do I need to stand on my head. Just kidding, this kind of stuff drives me crazy, my psych says just let it go, so I went to the Dali Lama and he said just let it go.

 

Actually thanks for the info, I pray and hope I never need it. when I first got my '19 I was stuck on the side of the road. the rear end was so light that i couldn't get enough traction to climb the hill and get back on the road. True story, so i backed down and used the momentum to get headed down hill, funny thing is I've had the truck about 3 years and just learned the secret hand shake for sport track traction ...... I'm 73 and I wonder if I have enough time left to learn all the secret handshakes.