HELP PLEASE
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
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HELP PLEASE
My block heater is not working. Im getting 120 volts from the extension cord im using and has had it plugged in since saturday evening and i go to start her up just now, and she wont fire cuz shes soooo cold. So im at a loss and it wont warm up enough to start her when i need to go to work. Any help PLEASE!
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Well as i am looking at it, my cord looks fine, but when i wiggle it at the connector where it meets the extension is sparking a little. So im on my way to the hardware store to get another plug to replace it with.
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Well i replaced the plug and have had her plugged in a couple of hours, but she still aint warmin up. And no breakers or GFCI has tripped. I dont know what is goin on but its pissin me off cuz now im screwed for work in the AM cuz she wont start in the cold.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,833
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
so you know the cord has power try running a drill / saw/lite to make sure, the heater warms slowly and when to temp it will hold temp be calm. have you had the heater plugged in before? check out some fuses ,not sure what number it will be or what link to the fuse, have you tryed the search bar above?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,693
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From: Francestown, NH
Confirm there is some draw from the block heater by plugging a powerstrip into the wall or an extension cord etc. Plug a light or lamp into the powerstrip and turn it on. Plug the heater cord into the same powerstrip and see if the light dims. It should. If it doesn't then .....
Confirm the heater cord is connected properly to the block. You can disconnect it by hand from lying under the truck.
Inspect the heater cord for any damage.
After that replace the cord.
If still nothing then the only thing left I believe would be the element but I havn't heard much of them being an issue.
Confirm the heater cord is connected properly to the block. You can disconnect it by hand from lying under the truck.
Inspect the heater cord for any damage.
After that replace the cord.
If still nothing then the only thing left I believe would be the element but I havn't heard much of them being an issue.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
Likes: 242
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
You have More problems then the Block Heater Cord if it wont start
Bad GPCM or Glow Plug themselves usually throw a DTC
You need to check the FICM Out
Take a DVM And Check the heating Element
Send Cheezit a PM On it I know he Has a Special Way to check them Heaters with a DVM
But it should start without the Heater if cold could be Rough But SHould STart regaurdless IMO
Bad GPCM or Glow Plug themselves usually throw a DTC
You need to check the FICM Out
Take a DVM And Check the heating Element
Send Cheezit a PM On it I know he Has a Special Way to check them Heaters with a DVM
But it should start without the Heater if cold could be Rough But SHould STart regaurdless IMO
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
When things work Right ECT should get to 60-90*f after an Hour or so of being plugged in
Mine I can Hear it start to Cook within 1 minute of being plugged in Just a very Light sounding Sizzling sound things have to be Quiet to Hear it
Check for Continuity threw the Heating element you can do this by probing at the Plug end of the truck
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So riddle me this yall, I wake up this AM and she fires right up. I had a trickle charger on the passenger battery because i was afraid that i may have killed em crankin it yesterday. So she fires like new. They weird thing is i dont think the block heater was working because my gauge in the truck usually raises a hair if the block heater was on last night. Maybe i just need a new battery. I was broke when it came time for a battery and didnt know to replace both at the same time so one battery is only a couple months old. So should i just replace the older one?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
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From: South Weber, Utah
Sounds like its time to bust out the wallet and get yourself some gauges so your not winging it. That way you can check things like FICM voltage and system voltage at just a glance. And yes its a good idea to have both batteries load tested separately ( completely disconnected from one another ) dying batteries will kill the FICM and alternator.
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Like i said before i didnt know to do it that way until after i only bought one. I dont know if i should replace the older battery alone or replace both. I really only have the cash to do one at this time, but the other battery is only a couple months old. Could it be bad that quickly?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 577
Likes: 12
From: Cumming, Iowa
Could Be, It's pretty common for a bad batt to kill a good one.
I would do as others have advised pull them both have them tested. they need to be completly charged for a accurate test, If the one you recently replaced is bad you might get lucky and it would be warranted so you could end up with two new ones.....
I would do as others have advised pull them both have them tested. they need to be completly charged for a accurate test, If the one you recently replaced is bad you might get lucky and it would be warranted so you could end up with two new ones.....
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Like i said before i didnt know to do it that way until after i only bought one. I dont know if i should replace the older battery alone or replace both. I really only have the cash to do one at this time, but the other battery is only a couple months old. Could it be bad that quickly?
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