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Re-Thinking EGR Delete

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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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Re-Thinking EGR Delete

So I was doing some mild upgrades/maint on the ex today and after doing much reading, decided to pull the IAT2 sensor and MAP sensor/hose and clean them since I have a recurring P0401 code.

the IAT2 sensor was completely blocked off with black goo. I had to take a small pick to it/brake clean/wipe/repeat to get it clean.

The Map sensor tube wasn't really blocked persay but the orifice where it goes into the intake manifold was blocked, not completely but maybe 1/4 of hole was left looking thru it. I took a light and looked at the hole in the intake and it was almost completely blocked. Some q-tips soaked in carb cleaner cleaned it right up.

So my question...If I replace my oem egr cooler with a BPD egr cooler, can the egr system be shut off with a tuner or do i actually have to do the egr delete and still turn off the cel with a tuner? It seems like all that crap that i could see probably has many friends lurking inside my intake. I know there are different types of egr deletes and want opinions on what keeps the ooey gooey black yucky stuff outa my engine. I live in AZ so they do a visual inspection when its time to renew tags and such, but do those guys really have a clue anyways?

Im also doing a ccv reroute, and new riff raff boots with metal driver side tube. Ex is an 05 MY, but a late 04 engine
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Strealth delete for the visual inspection and an SCT to turn the CEL off (if it even comes on for you)

This way the EGR valve remains clean and intact and all sensors will be happy.

I wouldn't be surprised though if the IAT2 and MAP could also be clogged from the CCV oil going thru the system.

I still vote Stealth though, the system is completely blocked off and you have the cooler still installed for inspection. I would even run it without a tuner to see if the CEL even triggers.

When I did my delete I was already running a tune, but alter went back to stock strategy and the light never came on after almost 2 weeks of driving.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 11:49 PM
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Well the whole point of me doing a ccv reroute was to keep the riff raff boots looking and working top notch. I wasn't sure if the cel would even come on or not with a delete. I am trying to keep it from coming on again by doing some simple maint. After that if it does not come on, i plan on unplugging the egr valve to see if it triggers it again. I know that would hinder fan operation, but this time of year its not that critical for cooling. Would it be safe to say if the cel does not come on if I unplug the egr valve that it would not trigger it if i do a delete?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:34 AM
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I wouldn't know about actually disconnecting the EGR versus a delete.

Using DashBoss while having the stealth delete and stock tune I could see the EGR was commanded to open up to 29%, but I never noticed more than that. And the CEL never came on.

I would assume (maybe wrong) but with the EGR disconnected and the command is sent and not "seen" you'll get a CEL.

What strategy are you running? Probably guaranteed to have a CEl with VXCF7 or VXCF9.

But, like you mentioned you can unplug it and see what happens before doing any work or loading any tunes.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:36 AM
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no idea on stradegy..is that accessible thru AE? never looked. but it does the buzz at koeo
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by daddykitty
no idea on stradegy..is that accessible thru AE? never looked. but it does the buzz at koeo
I believe AE can read strategies.

The only one that you can really tell what you have is the "Buzz" Post-Cycle flash that buzzes the injectors up to 30 seconds after engine shut-down.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:48 AM
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i do not have that one. So I see by you replying that you basically have no life either? Meaning that its sat nite
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by daddykitty
i do not have that one. So I see by you replying that you basically have no life either? Meaning that its sat nite
Sort of, I'm buzzed and can't sleep.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 12:59 AM
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ok so here's another question then. I want to replace/redo my positive cable from the starter to the pass side battery. the battery terminal has a cable going both ways, 1 to driver bat, 1 to starter and one to alt. it looks like the connection at the terminal that bolts on got heated and burned the heat shrink. i can also see a little bit of corrosion at the terminal going to the driver bat. Is it better to cut back and crimp/heat shrink in or just replace entirely. vatozone doesn't even have the funky terminal on the pass side, plus i have a new dc alt i want to get in soon with new cables from them.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 01:05 AM
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I would make my own using crimp lugs.



Josh
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 01:08 AM
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yeah good idea. i am having an alarm put on next week so i'll ask my friend that does them if he can rig me up something. he has all that stuff already. thanks for the info.
 
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