EGR. Check Engine Light
EGR. Check Engine Light
i just bought a 2006 f250. i get a engine light, i bring it to autozone, and they tell me its giving a egr code. i go to ford and buy a new egr sensor. Engine light still on. Please help. i also heard of egr delete will that make the light turn off?
EGR Light still on.
You can either take it to you local Mechanic and pay 40-60.00 to have him use his scanner to rest it, OR unhook the battery and let the truck memory drain off for about 30 min to an hour and it will be reset. Drive the truck after hooking it back up for a 1/2 hour to see if it comes back on. If it does you've chosen the wrong part of the EGR system. You'll have to replace the positioning sensor would be more likely than the other.
Re set EGR.
The EGR delete is more that replacing the sensor. Last time I checked the sensor was around 30-40.00. The EGR delete I heard is around 75.00. Its up to you.OK, you’ve already done the PCV bypass, now you want to delete the EGR too? As we said in the PCV bypass,
this is for off-road or non-emissions use only. While the PCV bypass is pretty simple, the EGR delete is
a little more difficult mainly because the computer must have the EGR controls and sensors turned off. If you
already have a chip, you’ll need to send it back for reprogramming. If you don’t already have a chip, you’ll
need one for this mod.
OK, first, disconnect the battery. Disconnect the two rubber lines and the electrical connectors from the
DPFE. Remove the red and green plastic vacuum lines from the DPFE, the EGR valve, and the intake manifold.
Be careful with these lines because they are brittle, you may want to reinstall this equipment later on.
Unbolt the DPFE from the upper intake manifold, its attached at 2 places, and remove it. Cap the now open
vacuum port in the upper intake manifold. Loosen the big nuts which are used to attach the EGR tube at the
header and at the EGR valve at the upper intake manifold. Remove the EGR tube with the DPFE’s rubber
hoses still intact. Unbolt the EGR valve and remove it.
Now, physically block off the EGR ports in the header and the upper intake. Clamp the EGR tube in a vise
and hack off the header side flared end about 2 inches from the end. Now slip the nut off and have the hole
welded closed. Thread it back onto the header port and tighten it. Alternatively, if you don’t have it welded
shut, leave the nut on it and you can squeeze the 2” long end shut in a vise, then fold it over in the vise to
seal it off, then thread that back on. OK, at the upper intake, fabricate a block-off plate the same size and
shape as the EGR valve flange. You can use the EGR valve gasket as a template. Bolt the template in place
with the EGR gasket. If you can’t fabricate a block-off plate, simply hack off the end of the EGR tube and do
it just like you did down at the header, then reinstal that on the EGR valve, and reinstal the EGR valve. The
valve will still be there but will otherwise be blocked off.
With that done, send the chip back for reprogramming to turn off all EGR functions, the DPFE, and the EVR.
If these functions are not turned off in the computer, you’ll immediately set several nasty MIL codes because
key emissions equipment sensors are disconnected.
this is for off-road or non-emissions use only. While the PCV bypass is pretty simple, the EGR delete is
a little more difficult mainly because the computer must have the EGR controls and sensors turned off. If you
already have a chip, you’ll need to send it back for reprogramming. If you don’t already have a chip, you’ll
need one for this mod.
OK, first, disconnect the battery. Disconnect the two rubber lines and the electrical connectors from the
DPFE. Remove the red and green plastic vacuum lines from the DPFE, the EGR valve, and the intake manifold.
Be careful with these lines because they are brittle, you may want to reinstall this equipment later on.
Unbolt the DPFE from the upper intake manifold, its attached at 2 places, and remove it. Cap the now open
vacuum port in the upper intake manifold. Loosen the big nuts which are used to attach the EGR tube at the
header and at the EGR valve at the upper intake manifold. Remove the EGR tube with the DPFE’s rubber
hoses still intact. Unbolt the EGR valve and remove it.
Now, physically block off the EGR ports in the header and the upper intake. Clamp the EGR tube in a vise
and hack off the header side flared end about 2 inches from the end. Now slip the nut off and have the hole
welded closed. Thread it back onto the header port and tighten it. Alternatively, if you don’t have it welded
shut, leave the nut on it and you can squeeze the 2” long end shut in a vise, then fold it over in the vise to
seal it off, then thread that back on. OK, at the upper intake, fabricate a block-off plate the same size and
shape as the EGR valve flange. You can use the EGR valve gasket as a template. Bolt the template in place
with the EGR gasket. If you can’t fabricate a block-off plate, simply hack off the end of the EGR tube and do
it just like you did down at the header, then reinstal that on the EGR valve, and reinstal the EGR valve. The
valve will still be there but will otherwise be blocked off.
With that done, send the chip back for reprogramming to turn off all EGR functions, the DPFE, and the EVR.
If these functions are not turned off in the computer, you’ll immediately set several nasty MIL codes because
key emissions equipment sensors are disconnected.
wow that sounds like a pretty big job. I think im just going to try to resolve the issue and keep my EGR. I paid $300.00 for the sensor and bought it from Ford. When replacing i noticed it was all black and dirty under where that sensor mounts. I got a damp rag and cleaned as best i could. Im still getting the egr code. I have ithe light turned off and in about 8 miles it comes back on. Any ideas?
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