Hi guys...

this might shuda gone to the big block forum but you guys are smarter..l.

read an article on Royal Purple HPS oil the other day and wondering if it's a good product ??

Got a mildly built 460 ... mild cam, roller rockers, flat top pistons, massaged ports, edlebrock intake with 750 Quick fuel dp carb... Performance Igniton HEI 9.2:1 cr...blah...blah...blah

Broke it in on Castrol GTX 10w30 and after initial run in it just sits... need to drain break in oil and filter and refill...

wondering how the royal purp synthetic will work in a new non warranty engine. Their website is all wonderful... looking for real life experience..

thanks
John

 

I'm a pretty big fan of synthetics,and most all of them seem to be real good oil. Safest thing would probably be to put a few miles on it first, to make sure the rings are seated. Most modern moly rings break in very quickly though. I would consult my builder. And make sure you are leak free before you switch, unless you have won the powerball since we last talked.

 

I agree with fenders on waiting till everything is sealed up before going with a syn oil.
My personal choice in high performance is Red Line Oil because the stuff coats the metal like snot. I sold my Corvette so I don't have anything that I punish to that degree anymore but while other vettes of the 80s and 90s ran at 217 degrees this ran around 185* while being punished.

 

Mine too Carolina, but I wasn't gonna go there. Everybody has their favorite brand of oil. Just make sure you are running something with zinc in it for that flat tappet cam John. I use a Redline additive when I'm not running Redline Oil. Royal Purple is fine, and it might be the prettiest oil you can buy.

'fenders, too cool for Purple Oil.

 

I've been using Royal Purple oil in most of our cars. Keep in mind that if you're buying it to get the extra zinc dithiophosphate, you'll have to buy the racing grade. You said you have HPS, so that is the right stuff for a flat tappet engine.

The Royal Purple website says not to use their synthetic until you have over 2000 miles on the engine.

Dan

 

I did a search on the "OIL" forum and they flogged the crap out of it and syn vers pet and screamed UOA UOA over and over... boy some people are as paranoid about their oils as they are about their football teams (15, yall 15)

I gotta say here... this forum is the nicest place to be...folks are just friendly and helpful and polite.... good place to hang out... we need a porch and some rockin chairs !

guess I'll wait till I actually get a truck on the road and change over on the first oil change...

it ain't FT De-wayne... it's hyd/roller rocker... AND the purple goes away when you use it...

later
j

 

Good to hear you are running a rollercam. It makes your choice of oil much less important.

I have been to the oil forum you speak of. I will just say I am glad the great passion in my life is not motor oil lol.

And yes this forum is like no other I have ever been a part of. I really miss the old gang, but it seems they have been replaced by a new group of good folks.

 

my lack of punctuation got me ... not roller cam

rv grind hydraulic.... regular lifters.... roller rockers... but that b*tch is strong... even the guy that built it was noticibly impressed... good quick throttle response...

hope once I get the dang thing drivable to chain it down over a dyno and see what the rear wheels see... but first... I've got to be able to raise my left arm up... it just ain't cool if you can't hang your arm out the window !

yea, I miss a lot of the old guys... Kai and Kevin and Darkman (charles) and a bunch more... but this bunch is pretty cool too... guess for you it's kinda like going back to your highschool for a visit after you graduated... it just ain't the same and a lot smalller

later
j

 

OK, well we're back to run good oil then. My reference to a flat tappet cam is not a terrible thing, just the fact that you are running old school type cam. They make a ton more friction than a roller. An oil with ZDDP or an additive is cheap insurance. Among them is Redline. A bottle is about 12 bucks, and will last for numerous oil changes. At your annual mileage rate since I've known you, one bottle should be good till you are age 90 give or take.

I won't relaunch the "how to get adequate cam protection" debate in any depth here. You know where to find that. My way aint the only way. Race oil, additive, other options, it's nothing to get your undies in a bunch over. If your cam survived break-in, the battle is half won already.

 

D,

I had initially considered a roller cam setup but in the 460s there is a problem with geometry of the pushrods ... binding at high rpm and such, and some other issues and the primo builders tend to shy away from rollers (unless you want to spend an extreme amount of $$$ for stud girdles and crap) It gets expensive in the high hp stratosphere. And it isn't really a necessary investment in a 'street' engine.

j

 

Roller cams are usually an expensive addition in most non-rollerblocks. You need to get that on a dyno and post it up. I feel sorry for ya if it doesn't make considerably more power than my stroked 302 block does.

 

yea, it would have added about a grand to the build in parts and machine work... not in the budget...

I'll only be sad if the HP per $ ratio is higher than yours I'm sure you have considerable more invested her hp...

I told Jerry (builder) I only needed three things 1. Indy car throttle response (close) 2. Torque enough that it will dent the back cab wall with my head (and then some I think.) 3. 22mpg (well, two out of three ain't bad).

Now I need to find a pretty March serpentine system for a BB ford for less than my house costs. 22 mpg might be easier to come by

j

 

I don't know many details of your 460 build, but they make ridiculous torque with very few mods. You can install just about any gears you please and it will still be fun to drive. You might get 22 mpg if you idle down a mountain pass, but you knew that was the downside goin' in.