Hi all new here.
Just reading some threads on how to center steering wheel on 1994 Ford F-150.
To begin with I just got this truck from an original owner(a personal friend) . He looked after it facetiously until the steering box developed a leak and he parked it. It set for nearly 5 years in his driveway, however he had obtained a used steering box to install but never did.
I got it and with that used box I installed it for it running and safetied it n all.
I installed the box (which came with the pitman arm already on it so that made my job much easier. I left the front wheels straight as I could and removed old one and reinstalled new one aligning pitman arm with existing drag link where it was. That was all fine and good, I had also installed new ball joints ( marking the upper bushing/eccentrics) before removing so I could reinstall in the same position). I eventually found that the right from wheel was out of alignment by almost 11/2" toe in. I adjusted it as close to near centre as possible using the string method as shown in a fab forum video and all was good as far as pulling tire wear etc. Now my steering wheel is somewhere between 8 o'clock and 2 o'clock.
My question now is hiwxisbtge steering wheel centred easily advice looked and there doesn't seem to be any adjustable collars on drag link between pitman arm and tie rid ends.
Suggestions other than removing pitman arm or steering wheel are appreciated.
Ron.

 

Second vote to just pull the steering wheel, center it, done.

 

Not as easy as it sounds with a drivers steering wheel airbag. Wouldn't it be easier to re position the pitman arm on the steering box shaft providing it comes off easy?
Or is it easy to remove steering wheel to align?

 

Unless I am badly mistaken, the pitman arm can not be re indexed, it only goes in one position. It almost seems like the steering wheel can't be repositioned either, but I'm not sure.

You can adjust the adjusting sleeves though as mentioned. I actually did it with my 94 F-150 after reading about it on this site. The only thing you have to make sure you have enough threads left holding on the side that you have to lengthen, so you don't have an unsafe condition.

 

Talk about a half a$$Ed way to go about doing something.

Get an alignment for $60-75 and be done with it

 

I had my steering wheel off a few months ago. Memory says the wheel can be turned whichever way when it's put back on. But, looking for evidence, I found this page which shows a flat spot on the column (How to Replace the Clock Spring in a 1987 1996 F150 Truck). So, now I'm not 100% sure about my previous answer, though I still think I turned my wheel a bit before reinstalling it to correct an off-center issue.

 

Best advice yet. The wheel/column and box/pitman attachments are both key-splined. Both for good reason, as the left-right limits are built into the box, and you should have the toe set when the steering wheel is centered. This assures not only correct steering wheel position, but correct range of motion left and right of center. Fudging it with either the steering wheel or the pitman arm (even if you could) would not put the box at the center of its range when the truck is going straight ahead.

Even a "toe-and-go" alignment would be better than this guesswork, and def. better than hacking it.

 

The box has a tight spot as you go over center as well. You want that tight spot to be at centered steering, when the wheel is straight. Adjust the adjusting sleeves for alignments, both for toe and for steering wheel orientation. Pulling the steering wheel isn't easier, and neither is pulling the pitman arm. Proper adjustment doesn't take me but an hour with a tape measure, including driving to test it.

 

madpogue makes the best point yet. I hereby rescind my suggestion to just adjust the wheel. You really do want both sides adjusted properly otherwise it will affect cornering response. Take Old Faithful to a better alignment shop and get them to handle it properly.

 

I realized the actual "how" wasn't addressed. If you have toe set correctly, but need to center the wheel, you turn both the tie rod end adjusting sleeves the same amount, one in and one out, by a small amount. If you turn them the same amount the toe won't change, just the steering wheel position. Small turns go a long ways. 1/4 to 1/3 turn is all I'd do at a time.

 

Personally, I'd take it back to alignment shop... someone just didn't check the steering wheel when he finished. The steering wheel should have been straight when they gave you the truck back.

 

X2^^^^ Afterall you did pay for an alignment, why do their job for them!!!

 

Some people here are replying with don't touch the outer tie rid ends. I haven't only to adjustvtgd toe in in right from wheel. The other suggestion is to adjust the "upper" tie rid the one on the drag link, I don't have any other sleeves to adjust. The front end is basically all original from new. So no other place to adjustateering wheel. I replaced the steering box as it was shot pitman shaft seal blown out with a used one which came with the pitman arm attached. I made sure the wheels were as straight as possible then removed the bad steering box disconnecting the drag link from the pitman arm, and then, after installing the used box adjusted the pitman arm to the drag link. The steering wheel was slightly of centre then but when I adjusted the right front wheel with the only sleeve that was there, the wheel was further of centre. Something like 7 o'clock and 1oclock. It's annoying as the signal cancel tog is right at that spot and makes signalling difficult.

 

Some people here are replying with don't touch the outer tie rid ends. I haven't only to adjustvtgd toe in in right from wheel. The other suggestion is to adjust the "upper" tie rid the one on the drag link, I don't have any other sleeves to adjust. The front end is basically all original from new. So no other place to adjustateering wheel. I replaced the steering box as it was shot pitman shaft seal blown out with a used one which came with the pitman arm attached. I made sure the wheels were as straight as possible then removed the bad steering box disconnecting the drag link from the pitman arm, and then, after installing the used box adjusted the pitman arm to the drag link. The steering wheel was slightly of centre then but when I adjusted the right front wheel with the only sleeve that was there, the wheel was further of centre. Something like 7 o'clock and 1oclock. It's annoying as the signal cancel tog is right at that spot and makes signalling difficult.

 

Welcome to the forums Oldie63. Lots of good help here. Probably would be better to start a new thread with your question, as opposed to asking in a thread that's 3 years old. I almost gave up on page 1.

Okay so the two collars at the tie rod ends ARE the adjusting means. There is no other way to properly do it. That's the only adjustments. Nuff said.

1-1/2" is a lot. I mean a whole lot. Changing ball joints won't do that. Make sure the steering wheel is centered and remeasure. Sounds like you changed toe for the wrong side if the steering wheel is off even more than it was.

First suggestion is to let an alignment shop get in spec for you. Tires are expensive and burn off with improper toe. Since an alignment is half the cost of one of my tires it's a no-brainer for me.

Second redo the string thing paying attention to details. If you didn't spin the adjustment collars when you changed the ball joints and gearbox, it should've been where it was before you did anything. Other than moving the steering wheel to get the joint back into the pitman arm there was nothing to do.