Help in choice for rad
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
Help in choice for rad
The radiator in my '77 4x4 is from the 351M and is not holding up it's share of the cooling work. It's got a Weiand high volume water pump, Mark VIII electric fan currently but when running full throttle the temp climbs rapidly (fine when just driving regularly). Looking at JBG I saw an aluminum Flex-a-lite and the Super Cooler rad. Which rad would give the best cooling bang for the buck? Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Dublin CA
Im not familiar which would be best, but you could have a radiator recore yours with something bigger and possibly cheaper. Do you have a pump driven fan in conjunction with the electric? If not, put on a nice stainless flex fan. Youll move much more volume of air, and be sure to run a fan shroud. Check that you have the proper thermostat too.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
1973/79's with round headlamps: There are TWO different types of radiator supports.
The optional (except 1975/79's w/a 460) Super Cooling Radiator is higher than the standard/xtra cooling/A/C radiators, so...its specific radiator support has a larger opening radius.
Super Cooling fan shrouds are also specific. (1) specific to 1977/79 351M/400 / (1) specific to 1973/79 460 / (1) specific to 1973/76 360/390.
Super Cooling Radiator: 26 1/4" wide x 24 1/4" high / All others: 26 1/4" wide x 19 1/4" high.
Super Cooler not offered with 240/300 I-6's and 302.
The optional (except 1975/79's w/a 460) Super Cooling Radiator is higher than the standard/xtra cooling/A/C radiators, so...its specific radiator support has a larger opening radius.
Super Cooling fan shrouds are also specific. (1) specific to 1977/79 351M/400 / (1) specific to 1973/79 460 / (1) specific to 1973/76 360/390.
Super Cooling Radiator: 26 1/4" wide x 24 1/4" high / All others: 26 1/4" wide x 19 1/4" high.
Super Cooler not offered with 240/300 I-6's and 302.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
1973/79's with round headlamps: There are TWO different types of radiator supports.
The optional (except 1975/79's w/a 460) Super Cooling Radiator is higher than the standard/xtra cooling/A/C radiators, so...its specific radiator support has a larger opening radius.
Super Cooling fan shrouds are also specific. (1) specific to 1977/79 351M/400 / (1) specific to 1973/79 460 / (1) specific to 1973/76 360/390.
Super Cooling Radiator: 26 1/4" wide x 24 1/4" high / All others: 26 1/4" wide x 19 1/4" high.
Super Cooler not offered with 240/300 I-6's and 302.
The optional (except 1975/79's w/a 460) Super Cooling Radiator is higher than the standard/xtra cooling/A/C radiators, so...its specific radiator support has a larger opening radius.
Super Cooling fan shrouds are also specific. (1) specific to 1977/79 351M/400 / (1) specific to 1973/79 460 / (1) specific to 1973/76 360/390.
Super Cooling Radiator: 26 1/4" wide x 24 1/4" high / All others: 26 1/4" wide x 19 1/4" high.
Super Cooler not offered with 240/300 I-6's and 302.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,037
Likes: 9
From: Kasson, Minnesota
Best bang for the buck, I'd consider getting a Champion Aluminum Radiator. If you have the room, go for a 4 row one. I have 3 row and seems to cool pretty well with my 521 on the hottest of days. I run a derale dual fan setup and on the hottest days I have to run both fans, but it stays down around 200-205 with 100+ heat index. They are a cheaper radiator, but I have had no problems with mine so far. I didn't get a 4 row because of clearance issues with my particular setup.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Cape Town. South Africa.
Hi 77460ford,
The symptoms you describe might relate to the radiator pressure not holding.
At low rpm not too much pressure is built up within the radiator, but if there is a pressure leak, the 'normal' temp will rise a bit.
At higher rpm the pressure builds up more, so any pressure leak will aggravate the issue and cause the engine to run a lot hotter.
A pressure leak could be caused by a hairline crack on the radiator, or a knackered radiator cap.
Both are not that easy to spot !
As a starting point, you could take your truck to a radiator shop and ask them to do a pressure test, or buy the testers and D.I.Y.
IF the pressure leak is the issue, the repair is quite cheap.
Also, it wouldn't hurt to check if the core is partially blocked.
If it turns out that your radiator is ok, but it is a 2 core, an upgrade to a 3 core would work well as nine inch rear suggested.
If you still decide on a new radiator, there are pros and cons for both the old OE, and the newer ally radiators, you can decide which suits you best.
Hope that helps a bit.
The symptoms you describe might relate to the radiator pressure not holding.
At low rpm not too much pressure is built up within the radiator, but if there is a pressure leak, the 'normal' temp will rise a bit.
At higher rpm the pressure builds up more, so any pressure leak will aggravate the issue and cause the engine to run a lot hotter.
A pressure leak could be caused by a hairline crack on the radiator, or a knackered radiator cap.
Both are not that easy to spot !
As a starting point, you could take your truck to a radiator shop and ask them to do a pressure test, or buy the testers and D.I.Y.
IF the pressure leak is the issue, the repair is quite cheap.
Also, it wouldn't hurt to check if the core is partially blocked.
If it turns out that your radiator is ok, but it is a 2 core, an upgrade to a 3 core would work well as nine inch rear suggested.
If you still decide on a new radiator, there are pros and cons for both the old OE, and the newer ally radiators, you can decide which suits you best.
Hope that helps a bit.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
Thank-you so much for all your responses, to give some further info:
- Electric fan only, no mechanical. The Mark VIII with its integral shroud provides plenty of air. Wired with proper relays and temp switches.
- Thermostat; changed out with new
- Rad cap; changed out with new (13lb)
- Crack in rad; I see some green scale on the upper tank near the seam but with the age of the radiator it seems best to change out for new then repair.
- Core blocked; a possibility due to the age of the rad and another reason it's getting changed
- Numberdummy; you are amazing source of information. I'll probably carve out the opening required for the rad I get and fab up additional structural material to the rad support.
- Champion rad; I'll have to look if I can get them up here or what its like to ship.
- Electric fan only, no mechanical. The Mark VIII with its integral shroud provides plenty of air. Wired with proper relays and temp switches.
- Thermostat; changed out with new
- Rad cap; changed out with new (13lb)
- Crack in rad; I see some green scale on the upper tank near the seam but with the age of the radiator it seems best to change out for new then repair.
- Core blocked; a possibility due to the age of the rad and another reason it's getting changed
- Numberdummy; you are amazing source of information. I'll probably carve out the opening required for the rad I get and fab up additional structural material to the rad support.
- Champion rad; I'll have to look if I can get them up here or what its like to ship.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
If I had a big a$$ 472 on nitrous I'd find the biggist quality built aluminum radiator I could find. Big hp, big rad. Just my $.02.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
I've learned the biggest is not always best, I understand your statement but each application has its best fit. That's why I was mulling the aluminum or copper choice and what size would work best without overkill. Not slamming your statement, I've struggled with numerous parts as to how strong a part I need.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
I've learned the biggest is not always best, I understand your statement but each application has its best fit. That's why I was mulling the aluminum or copper choice and what size would work best without overkill. Not slamming your statement, I've struggled with numerous parts as to how strong a part I need.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
I tryed using the stock 351-400 rad too when I switched to a big block. Didn't work and I tryed everything then went with the 4 row super cooler, problem solved. You might want to choke the bypass hose down to 1/4" if you are really having problems
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 13
From: Kincardine, ON
Did you change rad supports or carve your old one?