cab mounts
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Ozark Mo
cab mounts
ok so ill be replacing my front cab mounts sometime here soon on my 68. so im wondering if screwing the mounts in would hurt the strength of the mounts. i plan on doing a combination of rivits, welds and screws.
odd i know but, your thoughts?
odd i know but, your thoughts?
New User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 13
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From: Nixa, Missouri
If you are going to go that way - you might research JC Whitney - they used to have cab mount replacement boots that fit (bolted) over the existing - just an option if you are not trying to fit fit everything back factory
Not a great picture I know - but you can see what was installed on mine during the first restoration -
Not a great picture I know - but you can see what was installed on mine during the first restoration -
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
I'd hold them in with a few screws, then weld them in permanently. If you have a welder, that's a no brainer. Even if you just drill holes and spot weld them(like the factory did). Or just stitch them in around the outside.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
This is one of those areas of you get what you pay for!! Buy the better one's from Dennis Carpenter. Not the cheap $30 one like I did the first time around.
I've found the best way is to drill out all the old spot welds, I use grade-8 1/4"x3/4" bolts and fender washers on both sides. Just grind off as must of all the old slag or metal
so the new mount fits in it's place under the lip in at the fire wall area. I used a Clamp there to hole it while letting the cab down a little onto the rubber cab cushion for a good fit.
I Was sure glad, I bolted them in cause it made it easier remover the cheapo one's. The cheapo ones lasted about 3 yrs.. .my 2cent
orich
I've found the best way is to drill out all the old spot welds, I use grade-8 1/4"x3/4" bolts and fender washers on both sides. Just grind off as must of all the old slag or metal
so the new mount fits in it's place under the lip in at the fire wall area. I used a Clamp there to hole it while letting the cab down a little onto the rubber cab cushion for a good fit.
I Was sure glad, I bolted them in cause it made it easier remover the cheapo one's. The cheapo ones lasted about 3 yrs.. .my 2cent
orich
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Senior User
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From: Ozark Mo
ok cool, yes i will be using dennis carpenter cab mounts. my welder is... sub par. its a spot welder at best. not to mention my floor pans are in good shape still but once preped for welding not sure how well they will hold up.
thanks for the feed back
thanks for the feed back
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
My floor pans where rusted through in small holes here and their, I cleaned the pans good and used POR-15 with Boat cross weave fiberglass cloth, I used a 1/2 pint+ on each side.
The my floor pans are fixed for ever. Put about 1/4" built up of fiberglass on each side, put Por-15 ON the the bottom side once cleaned it good. When you don't have a welder any longer you got-a do the next best thing..Worked for me...orich
The my floor pans are fixed for ever. Put about 1/4" built up of fiberglass on each side, put Por-15 ON the the bottom side once cleaned it good. When you don't have a welder any longer you got-a do the next best thing..Worked for me...orich
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: eugene oregon
I was wondering how well the por15 works with the cloth to patch up holes caused by rust. On my 72 f250 camper special the fender where the battery sets is rusted out and I am planning to use por15. Any tips on prep and application.
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Por-15 had a little kit with a can of cleaner and all you needed. Wire brush the area good or use a de greaser then hose it off good let air dry completely or with heat gun. Put a thick base coast first then lay the F-glass cloth in place working the cloth into the por-15 in good with like a 4" bondo paddle working out all the air bubbles. For second coast let the Por-15 get some what tacky then apply more glass cloth over the same patch area over lap the base later. Add more por-15 as needed. I used the boat class cloth patch kit cross weave thick stuff.. You'll need some Lacquer thinner for clean up, This will stay on your hand for 4-5 days if you don't use a cleaner to remover it.. my 2 cents orich
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
My floor got wet for yrs and could not find the leaks other then wind wing areas. Then one summer day. I thought damn, I see if I can find any other places where it maybe leaking. I laid out news paper below the whole heater box foot areas and ran water on the out side wind shield seal area and little at a time and kept checking for wettest on the paper. None. So then put some water on the wiper arm shaft area and looked at the newspaper and bingo water was dripping in. Turns out the Wiper arm inner flange shaft gasket was split letting water into the cab floor. So you may have other leaking areas also. Good time to find them.
orich
orich
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
If you are going to go that way - you might research JC Whitney - they used to have cab mount replacement boots that fit (bolted) over the existing - just an option if you are not trying to fit fit everything back factory Not a great picture I know - but you can see what was installed on mine during the first restoration -
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