like the title states.. a few days ago I had a sputter, cloud of white smoke and the truck stalled on the way to work. Started up shortly after, limped it back home. Used an infrared thermometer to measure the temp of the exhaust ports to see which cylinder wasn't igniting the fuel properly. Cylinder #2 was the culprit. Pulled the valve cover to check oil flow out of the spouts. All injectors had oil flow, cylinder #2 had about half as much oil coming out compared to the other injectors. Upon further inspection it looks like the previous owner had already replaced the gasket along with the wiring harness for the injectors and glow plugs. It also looked like he had replaced all the other injectors on the drivers side bank except for cylinder #2. I say this because the other injectors were stamped with the injector code starting with "AD" which after reading further into it is a compatible swap with the "AB" injectors the truck came with from the factory.

after all of that was said and done. I went to go get a replacement injector, fuel filter, oil and filter. Before I left I had decided to pull the fuel filter cap off to get it ready for the filter and drain the reservoir. Turns it it was mixed with a bunch of dirty oil. So at this point I decided to pull the injector to inspect the lower o-rings and found that the oring had corroded over time and failed causing the oil to mix wth the fuel. So I decided to pick up some injector orings at the same time just to have them on hand if replacing the injector didn't fix the oil and fuel mixing issue.

got everything back together, pulled the glow plug to drain the oil and fuel out of the cylinder. Turn the motor over by hand a few times. Put the glow plug back in. Left the valve cover off just to inspect oil flow while running. Filled the HPOP reservoir. Go to start it, it fires up and runs for about 15 seconds and then dies.

Figured I would have to continue to prime the HPOP system. Put the valve cover back on.

After over 20 attempts and charging the batteries numerous times. Still no start.

No smoke while turning over. Disabled the glow plugs and sprayed some ether in there, stumbled and started for a few seconds. So I'm assuming that means the injectors aren't firing.

Verified that the fuel pump is running and the reservoir is priming. Pulled the icp sensor plug so it could default and attempt to start it, no change. RPM gauge is responsive while cranking, goes to about 100rpms or so. So that means the CPS is working.

So I think that means I'm down to the IPR and IDM.

How would I go about diagnosing those two items?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

And yes, I checked all the fuses.

 

Is it actually only turning over 100 rpm's? I don't believe the ECM will try to fire the injectors until it sees 400rpm. Might want to check for corrosion on the harness, bad connections between battery and starter. It's a simple place to start.

If it's not that simple, somebody with better experience will be along soon enough.

 

It honestly sounds like it's cranking faster than it did before it quit running. I could be wrong. Either way, it's still a good idea to check all the connections to make sure I'm getting the most out of the system that I can.

 

Update:

Bought one of those wifi obd2 scan tool things.

Codes that I'm getting:

P0113
P0470

I don't think either of those could be related to the no start condition. But then I noticed there was oil and diesel dripping out from the bottom.

Turns out there's diesel in the fresh oil, And oil in the fuel reservoir.

I'm not sure how diesel gets into the oil pan. But the oil getting into the fuel reservoir tells me there was more than one injector with a failed lower o-ring.

Also, I replaced both batteries with some from the dealer. The ones I had were old and after the constant draining and recharging. They decided to crap and bed and refuse to hold a charge.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been seriously contemplating towing this thing to the nearest shop that specializes in diesels. But I'd like to save the money and fix myself if possible.

 

Have you been turning the key on to test the fuel pump at all? I am just wondering if the same bad o-rings could let the pressurized fuel go the other way (fuel into the oil)if there is no oil pressure to oppose it?

I don't know this for sure at all, but just something I thought of? I am sure someone here will have the answer to this one here soon.....

 

I don't see any reason that fuel couldn't move the other direction when the truck isn't making any oil pressure. And that's the only way I could think of that you'd get fuel and oil mixing.

I think you should probably start with reringing all 8 injectors, might as well check armature clearance while your at it. Double check to make sure the uvch is in good and has no burnt out melted pins. And 50 cent mod it white your there.

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Honestly I was thinking the same thing about the fuel pressure going back into the oil system since the o rings are bad.

The previous owner already replaced the VC gasket along with the harness on the drivers side. I'll have to check and see if he did the same for the passenger side.

I'm still really stuck on the no start condition. I'm thinking about just buying an IDM and swapping out real fast to see if it solves it or not... same thing goes for the IPR valve.

 

Also now that you have the wifi obdii thing. You should be able to watch live data while trying to start it.

As I remember this is what the truck needs to start:

10.5 volts while cranking
ICP needs to be a minimum of 500psi
150 rpms (I was off​ on this earlier)
fipw should be between 1&6ms if the other conditions are met.

you can check the starting conditions before you tear into it again. They should help guide you to the problem.

 

When I get back to it tomorrow I'll see if I can find the PIDs for those parameters in the forscan app. I already had the ICP pressure and IPR percentage inputs on there.

I'm still learning how to use the app, but with the key in the on position the IPR was sitting at 14.8% while turning the key it would spike to 64.8%.

I had a reading from the ICP but I forgot to save that log. I'll have to get that tomorrow.

My rpm gauge did respond while cranking, I'm not sure the exact rpm it was reading at. If it responds at all that means the CPS is working correctly, correct? Or is it possible for it to have an error and not read high enough but still respond?

 

When I get a chance this morning I'll verify the IPR behavior. And try to post a log of it.

 

IDM pull ur inner fender out on drivers side find the box in the upper fender and un do the plug to the IDM on the plug find PIN 23 and 24 (the feed wires) and pins 6 7 8 9 and pins 19 20 21 22 (switched ground)ohm out those wires i got a steady 3.5 ohm at all injectors what was telling me the IDM wasn't firing and the wires from /idm and back where good

my truck was doing the same thing and i went threw the process of buying all the parts and sensors and everything else....

when i could have just replaced my IDM and it would have fixed my problem 250$ at a local auto part shop and she fire up in one second

 

THANK YOU! Once I ohm out the wires I'll post with my findings. It will probably be tomorrow night. I'll be in charleston at the beach all day.

 

This is not electrical. The IPR of 64% says you are not building ICP. Either the IPR is malfunctioning or there is a big leak in your ICP system. Given fuel and oil mixing, I'll go with big bad O-ring leak on one or more injectors. The truck was running before the injector work, so the latest injector work is the tall guy with the sneer and bad teeth in the suspect lineup.

 

So after checking with the forscan app, I have 0psi ICP pressure while cranking, unhooked sensor. I got a reading.. but it still didn't fire up. Could the leak be so bad that there isn't enough pressure to fire the injectors with the ICP unplugged?

 

with the ICP unplugged the computer infers what pressure should be given other parameters. And tries to run based on that. Given that it reads 0psi connected and won't start unplugged I think it's safe to assume, that as tugly mentioned you have a big bad high pressure oil leak. Given that you haven't mentioned anything about your truck hemorrhaging oil like a gun shot wound, you're left with internal oil leaks.

So we're down to injectors and hpop. Since hpops rarely if ever die spectacular instant deaths, I would start with Tuglys comment above.