German specs (gudentite) are all that are really needed.

Don't muscle it like you're arm wrestling the strongest man alive and don't be a noodle-arm and you'll be fine.

Stewart

 

Funny. I saw that "gutentight" reference in an old post when I did a search.

That said, the alternator seems to be holding.

Thank you.

 

Eight months and ten days...

The last couple times I've driven the Excursion, I've noticed a faint burning smell when I got out of the truck. I shot my infrared thermometer at the wheels, unit bearings, everywhere I could think of, to no avail. Today I noticed that I could smell it from the passenger's side wheel well with the motor running, and right as I opened the hood. Figured it had to be in the engine bay somewhere...

The connector on the back of the alternator was completely melted, as was the factory insulator on the charge wire, and the PCM was only seeing 11.7 volts. Unfortunately, I assumed the charge wire was bad and cut the end of it off before looking at the alternator. The wire turned out to be fine, but the little round keyed connector on the back of the alternator was completely melted. Any idea why this might be?

O'Reilly swapped it out with a re-man'd one, but I'm convinced there's exactly zero difference between new cheap Chinese junk and remanufactured cheap Chinese junk, so that didn't bother me. At least the one I got tonight started out as a Motorcraft.

Aside from your thoughts on why this thing burned the way it did, where might I find a new charge wire connector? None of the wax and oil stores have them. The charge wire looks to be 4ga, but the hole for the charging post is much smaller than the average 4ga crimp connector.

Mark

 

I have had this happen to me twice now. Exact same melted wires, plug and insulation. First time was with the original alternator, and the second was with one from a well-known local re-builder. When I took it back to the re-builder, I asked what had gone bad with it (it was putting out wayyyyy too much voltage). He told me "everything pretty much". He couldn't believe it was only a year old with about 15k miles on it. They did pro-rate the repair at least.

I can only surmise it is the cheap parts everyone is using to build/re-build them, as you stated.

 

Sorry to hear that Mark. Mine is still going strong.

Question, did you change out the alternator pulley or leave the 6.0 one on there?

Of course I guess with the Chinese junk it's all a roll of the dice anyway, but so far I've been lucky with mine.


As for the connector, I'd get some welding cable and the welding cable connector. That should give you some replacement parts that will work.

 

Please see the attached picture. It seems like my newly installed 6.0 alternator with its oversize alternator case is just barely touching the around-the-belt upper coolant hose. I think I'm going to have a problem as the alternator heats up. Not sure that loom will solve the problem. Other than changing back to the old style hose, does anyone have a suggestion.

 

My alternator is failing....again, as well. Just got the battery light today, and it is only putting out 11.7V. Last one was putting out 15.7V when it failed.

As far as the charge wire connector, I used a normal 4 gauge crimp-on and trimmed the sides so it would fit on the connection point.

I am suspecting I have a bad ground somewhere on the alternator or in the charging system. 3 alternators in about 2 years is ridiculous. They are lasting less time each time around, also.

 

I'd put a rubber hose of some kind between them or go back to the old style hose.

 

If clearance is an issue you're worried about, trim a little off the hose where it clamps onto the neck above the thermostat. 1/4" or so should be enough to change the angle of the hose and give you a little breathing room.

 

I forget. Will I lose fluid when I remove the hose? Stated differently, do I have to drain the system ... again?

 

You'll loose some fluid, but not a lot. No need to drain the entire system. Lower hose would have been a different story, but upper hose isn't too big a deal.

 

I don't understand how these things can put out so much excess voltage that they melt their connector, but don't tear anything else up on the truck. No burnt out bulbs, no funky behavior like you get with a bad battery, no fired fusible link, nothing. I put a meter on mine and it was putting out 14.7v at idle, after it had melted the plug.

I used the pulley from my 7.3 alternator.

I've got 500 miles on the "new one", with no issues. I'm sure the clock is ticking.

Mark

 

So, it seems that the alternator of choice is going to be some sort of Chinese knockoff (orielly, Autozone, Advance, DB Electrical) for a good price or OEM style (DC Power, Motorcraft) for a crazy price?

It seems that everyone is getting the 6.0 alternator with 140 amps from the big 3 auto parts places and just running them until they die.

I am looking to replace my alternator soon, so I am researching my choices. I may just go with the DB Electrical 160 amp which takes no modification if it is no better or worse than the Chinese 6.0 alternators.

 

I'm still happy with my DC Power alternator. It was a hassle waiting 6 weeks while it was on back order, and mine was down and out, but it was worth it in the end!

 

Roughly $325 for a 185 amp DC Power or $240 for a 160 amp DB Electrical.

It may be worth the extra cash to get the DC Power. Going to do more research and make a decision after I feel I have exhausted all efforts to save pennies.