Thanks Neal for doing the calculation because as my Momma always said I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I am really not smart enough to figure that out. Thanks Brother

And yes I did use the pulley off the original 7.3 alternator. I can get the measurement of the new 6.0 pulley tomorrow and post up.

"n1 (engine rpm) = 4,714 rpm! " We know that will never happen so I'll never see 12,000 alt rpm.

So are you saying that this 6.0 alternator with a stock 7.3 pulley is 6,000 alternator pulley rpm it equals 2,357 engine rpm?

 

I finally got around to installing the Alt, not the 215 Ambulance package one though, I learned the hard way that there is a difference in the plugs on the alternators.
The grey one is the old style that was on the Ambulance alt. The black one is the one on my Excursion and F450.

While searching for a pigtail to adapt from the new to old style, ( i needed the one that mounts in the alternator) I could not find it, and was not sure that it would have fit as the Ambulance one was HUGE and was about 50 pounds, I would have had to get longer bolts , and I am pretty sure it would have hit the charge pipe on the back of it.
I ended up at Napa and picked up a 200 amp alt for a 2008 6.4.

Sorry about the pictures, I had taken more but they did not turn out, and I was in a hurry to leave for work.
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It mounted right up, the only modification needed is to drill out the factory charge wire end for the larger alt stud. I also added a ground wire from the alt to the battery. I believe all the wires are either 2 or 4 gauge.
I had the amp fuse block, and a 200 amp fuse, yes, it is over kill but on the 215 amp alt, I looked at the paperwork and it said it needs a 175 amp fuse, I figure if crap goes bad enough to need to blow a 175 amp fuse a 200 amp fuse is not going to make much difference. The charge wire I added needed to have the end clipped and clearanced for the connector shroud, I also had to flatten it a bit for both wires to fit on the stud. The connector shroud will come off if you don't like the wires the way it was.
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Before it was started, key off.
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It did not charge at first start. Glow plugs still on.<table id="ncode_imageresizer_warning_6" class="ncode_imageresizer_warning" width="400"><tbody><tr><td class="td1" width="20">
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I had tried to swap the pulleys from the old to new as the old one is about 1/2 inch smaller, but the shaft on the new one was smaller then the old one, it even had a different size nut on it, I am not sure if the pulley on the 6.4 alt is pressed or threads on either as there is a hex portion on the end of the shaft, and I could not get it to come off.

I think I need to find a smaller pulley, as when my wife revved it just
above idle it activated the alt and charged, and stayed charging after it was returned to idle.
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The batteries were at 75% so i left the charger on it over night.
193 bucks, 200 amp alt. ( I had all the other materials all ready, the one time it was nice to have all the stuff, that your wife has been after you to throw away, and it was used on her vehicle.)

She drove it today and it runs and drives just fine, no battery light or twitchy throttle.

 

I bought a Bosch 140 amp 6.0 alt from a supplier at work for $111. The 7.3 pulley rubbed the case, so I'm running the original 6.0 pulley on it still. It puts out 85 amps at idle and the full 140 at about 1600 rpm.

 

Just a side note, if you are able to always keep your pulley. The remans ( all most all of them) comes with a different sized pulley.This one being larger, will under drive the alt, you might end up with a few extra ponies due to the underdrive. nothing noticeable.. Not a power mod.. lol

I work and repair the Ford Taurus SHO (all makes and models) and the gold pullys are smaller and will overdrive the the alt and cause the light to some on. The SHO engines will turn 7k all day long and my race engine has hit 10k.

All the remans stink, but thats because most of us will find the cheapest one out there.. Swap your pulley!!! also the kids that work at these stores never look in the box so return anything and keep your old one and fine a local rebuilder.. cheaper in the future. I tested this by placeing a brick in the box once.. lol

This 08-10 200 alt is interesting, as I tow and use a cable from my Batts to power the winch. I dont care about adding a second charging wire or any of that it this point, Do I need to? do I need to change a fuse? or is it a simple grind and rotate to install? is there an exact part number for this alt?

 

ps.. thanks this is a great read.

 

That is my guess...This would raise the rpm of the alternator (and the output of the alternator at any given engine rpm). I'm saying that at 2400 rpm (engine rpm) you would have full rated alternator output. Of course this is all "seat of the pants" calc's based on assumed pulley diameters. If we had the exact diameters (come on you guys with micrometers) I could nail this down exactly. The key in that data slip provided by the manufacturer is the pulley ratio (ratio of the crank pulley to the alternator pulley). They used a 1.84 ratio for the test. We would also need the crank pulley diameter of the 6.0 engine too.

 

Great thread!! When the battery light came on yesterday, and my 6th piece-of-crap cheap Chinese junk O'Reilly alternator tested bad, I swapped it for a brand spanking new piece-of-crap cheap Chinese junk 6.0 alternator, part number 392570. I have no faith that this one will last any longer than the last six, but it'll put out a few more amps 'till it dies.

I opted not to clock mine, as I prefer the wires coming out the side, rather than the top. Now they are out of the way of the hood insulation.

It's a shame there aren't any better options than this junk. The recent stories on local rebuilders in this thread aren't encouraging, and it's no wonder shy: All the components come from China no matter who rebuilds it. Oh, well, at least alternators are easy to change.

Mark

 

Pushing 2 years on my 6.0 alternator. I can't remember the last time I had one last this long.

Still performing well for me.

 

I ended up returning the 6.4 alt, it was not charging like it should, when I looked into it more, the computer controls the alternator on the 6.4 and newer trucks, on the 7.3 and 6.0 trucks they just use a charge wire to activate the alt. The charge that I was seeing was a failsafe, " limp home" charge rate, I swapped it for a 6.0 210 amp single alt. version, it bolted right in and is still working to this day.

Here is the link to the write up I did on my install, the second time...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13076204

 

Cool. It was your experience that gave me confidence to do this. I've averaged about 2 years and 10-12K out of each of mine.

I did end up making money on the deal, which was odd. I asked the counter what my options were when the latest one tested bad, and he said he'd replace it, or give me my money back. I opted for the money, and got $214.49 back, then bought the new 6.0 on for $193.74, out the door.

Mark

 

Isn't the charge wire suppose to be installed on the passenger side? Also the cable size should be 1/0 and you should included battery to battery, upgrade ground and battery to fuse box....

 

Are those the charging numbers you are seeing with or without acc on......
I have a 110 amp and I'm seeing 13.90-1405 charging rate with and without A/C and stereo w/amp and lights on.....

 

I do that kind of mileage in about 3 months. The "lifetime" alternators seemed to last about 40k for me.

 

Can someone provide the torque specs for the 3 bolts that secure the alternator to the alternator bracket?

 

I just tightened mine down till it stopped then pushed a little more and heard a squeak. My bolts were really tight I thought I was going to break my 3/8" rachet trying to get them loose! Just replaced my alt. last night, took about 20 minutes