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This got me thinking and I haven't searched for it...but has anyone looked into the 1997-2003 E-350 single alternator with ambulance prep 7.3 alternator with ambulance prep? It is a single 215 amp unit.
Used to be a pretty popular upgrade with the OBS crowd IIRC.
You just saved my bacon with this info... After talking to Autozone and them telling me about the 215 amp for 215 bucks last week, I went to order it and pay for it.. It was Unavailable, and out of stock.
I asked him about other vehicles that use the same alt and he kind of rolled his eyes and said do you know what year and application? I said how about a 97 E350 with the 7.3 and the ambulance package, he pulled it up and about fell over....
This is what he came up with,
it is a little more then what I had planned on spending, but what the heck, it is still cheaper then other after market ones I have seen,and Napa's 200 amp alt. And not much more then the 130 amp they wanted to give me for the stock application.
They are going to call me when it is in. Good thing about it is I don't think I have to clock it or anything. Should mount right up, plug and all.
I'm no electrician, but a quick google search says 8 awg marine wire is rated for
I'm guessing that's assuming a marine application engine space, and I have no idea how that translates to what we're doing.
What I did was split the wire strands in half and wired in (2) fusible links to split the load of the wire. I don't remember what gauge wire I used, but I got it off a pair of cheap jumper cables I ran across and bought for just this kind of purpose.
I'm also running an extra mini fuse block and some grounds using pieces of this jumper cable set, all for less money than it would have cost me to buy the wire.
Thanks Chris for looking that up as far as specs. I have alot of extra wire from boats I have worked on and the largest or should I say smallest awg I have is 8awg. I guess I'll have to dig around and see if I have some bigger wire somewhere.
So you used 2 fusible links do remember if you used 2 12ga fusible links or what size?
Now as I checked into the Orielly's 140amp alt. they said it needed to be special ordered and 7 days which won't work for me. And I will only use a NEW not rebuild on my truck. I WON"T buy anything from AutoZone! So at Advanced I found a 6.0 140amp alt #92570 NEW for $174.99 and I'll have it tomorrow. The icing on the cake is I used a discount code and I am getting it for $148.00 Core $12.00.
Now that 215amp would be over kill for me and that is way more money then I can afford. Now if I needed more than 200 amps I think I would go to a dual alt set up. But that would cost even more so I guess I am lucky that I can do the 6.0 140amp "new" mod for the same price as the stock 110amp "rebuild".
While I've been very happy so far with my 185A DC Power alternator, I would have definitely gave the 215A a hard look. Its $5 more than mine, but with a $50 core as mine was core less. Can you get core $'s back for a Superduty alternator??
Guys, this is a great thread. Can you show pictures of the installs when installed. I'd like to see the wiring and fuseable links etc.. Thanks if you can. Also let us know when you get the 215amp if it is a direct replacement and all.
While I've been very happy so far with my 185A DC Power alternator, I would have definitely gave the 215A a hard look. Its $5 more than mine, but with a $50 core as mine was core less. Can you get core $'s back for a Superduty alternator??
The Motorcraft version is $1186 w/ $250 core
Wow, I was going to call Ford and check, guess I will pass on that option....
I asked the guy at Autozone, and he said as long as there is something in the box, we're good. Since I put it on my mechanics account they did not charge me for the core, and just said to bring it back.
I did look at the DC Power Alts. I just could not bring my self to part with that kind of money and not have a "lifetime" warranty.... for what ever that is worth.
I am excited to get it installed when it comes in. I checked the X tonight with my dummy battery/ alternator and it was over charging, I didn't put my Fluke meter on it since I am replacing it anyway and I know it is bad.
I will take some pics of the install, I will have to look around for my power cables for the charge wire.
Wow, I was going to call Ford and check, guess I will pass on that option....
I asked the guy at Autozone, and he said as long as there is something in the box, we're good. Since I put it on my mechanics account they did not charge me for the core, and just said to bring it back.
I did look at the DC Power Alts. I just could not bring my self to part with that kind of money and not have a "lifetime" warranty.... for what ever that is worth.
I am excited to get it installed when it comes in. I checked the X tonight with my dummy battery/ alternator and it was over charging, I didn't put my Fluke meter on it since I am replacing it anyway and I know it is bad.
I will take some pics of the install, I will have to look around for my power cables for the charge wire.
I'm looking forward to hearing how the install goes and seeing a photo or two is always a good thing !
I picked up my 140 amp alt from Advance Auto and had a few issues and words with the dumba$$ parts guy. I won't even waste my time explaining. But my alt came with a cool print out. But at the top it says 12v/ 135 amp but as you read down it says max output 163amp....wait for it..at 12000rpm's. I wonder what the engine rpm's would need to be for the alternator to turn 12,000? But it actually does have some real world info that is helpful. Mostly that the amp output curve with a 1.84 pulley ratio is not very good. So like Chris said I need to use the smaller pulley to get the rpm's up on the alt to get some AMP Output.
Stock 7.3 110 amp and 6.0 140 amp alternator
Here is a photo of the alt after being clocked. Now since I like to over think things I took a in/lbs torque wrench and checked the stock alt bolts and the new alt bolts were barely tight. But I came up with 75in/lbs so I used red locite and torqued the bolts to 75in/lbs. I know you are thinking RED locite well I'll never take it apart Lifetime Warranty. I also painted the stock pulley but I am waiting for it to dry.
I installed my 6.0 140 amp and it wasn't charging so I took it back to Advance to have it tested. Mind you I had them test it before leaving the store when I bought it. They retested it and it said it was putting out 14.1 volts. But on the truck it isn't anything out. I checked voltage in cab, batteries and at the alternator output I am getting 11.7v running and with the truck off I get 12.1v. NOTHING !?!?
Are these alternators self energizing ? And correct me if I am wrong that the alt plug with 2 wires is for the dash gauge and battery light?
I am wondering if their tester is bad or I have an other reason the alternator isn't putting out???
I would still check the rest of your fuses. In that diagram it just shows the inline but who knows if it's showing everything.
Thank you for posting the link it was a huge help. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to check fuses and check to see if I have power to the 2 wire plug on alt. And if I read that correctly one wire is always hot and the other is only hot with key on in that 2 wire plug on alt.
Originally Posted by F350-6
Sounds like you got the married version.
Use a volt meter and test the rear post of the alternator against a ground and see if you get a reading that way.
Chris that is too funny "married version" But I'm NOT laughing because I am married and I know what you mean. LOL
I put a meter to alt case ground and battery ground and + to the alt output and I only get battery voltage. But I have a feeling I am going to have to replace that 2 wire plug, wires didn't look good. Do you have any idea where to find that?
But my alt came with a cool print out. But at the top it says 12v/ 135 amp but as you read down it says max output 163amp....wait for it..at 12000rpm's. I wonder what the engine rpm's would need to be for the alternator to turn 12,000?
Here is the calculation premised on a 2.75 inch alternator pulley diameter and a 7 inch crank pulley (I just went out and measured the pulleys quickly):
(d1 x n1) = (d2 x n2)
d = diameter of pulley (inches)
n = revolutions per minute
1,2 = driving pulley or driven pulley
(7 x n1) = (2.75 x 12,000)
so, n1 (engine rpm) = 4,714 rpm!
If the output of the alternator was linear (and from the curve they supply it is not), the alternator would put out 68 amps at 2000 rpm. At 6,000 alternator pulley rpm it equals 2,357 engine rpm...so above full-rated output at 2400 rpm.
Hey Ed, did you put your old pulley (the one off the original alternator) on the new alternator? Also, could you measure the new alternator pulley diameter?
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