Hi,
The clutch failed on my A/C compressor pump a while back. I unplugged it as it is winter here and I won't need A/C for 6 months at a minimum.

that worked great for about a month, and now the bearing in the pully is freezing. there is a very bad burning metallic smell in the air.

The truck has been sitting at work for a week. I finally got a new pump online and it showed up today. I have several questions.

1. The truck is an e99, and this is the pump I got. I have a feeling it is wrong, because the front is different than the one I have. Can it get me by? 1999-2002 Ford F250 Super Duty A/C Compressor - Austin Baker 10303711 Discount Auto Parts and Accessories - PartsGeek

2. I don't care about A/C at all. Can I take the old pump out, put the new one in, and not worry about oil, freon, etc. As stated before I don't care about A/C. Will the truck be functional with an inoperable A/C system?

3. It is currently very cold, and we are in the midst of a large storm that we have been waiting for. 8+ inches on the ground so far and temperatures around 10. Does anyone have instructions? I know how to use the tensioner, and I can see the 4 bolts holding it down. Anything else I should pay attention to?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Lloyd

 

2. yes the ac dose not have to work and the truck will work, no the truck will not run if the compressor in not there.
3. 4 bolts 1 holding the pipes 2 orings that is it 1 plug.


my brothers failed and i just put a new clutch and bearing in it, no need to drain and refill the ac, as we need ac 10 month out of the year.

 

dont no if this help but, i swaped engines in a dodge ram gasser i had. put the old ac back on new motor with no charge at all . its been fine for over a year now.

 

SnakeDoc is DEAD ON!

Reps sent to him.

Just change the whole clutch assembly, not the whole compressor. About $120, and you don't lose any refrigerant.

Pop

 

alright guys, thanks for the quick responses. I'll get after it today and see what I can do. I al ready have a part that I can't return but if it won't fit in, I am just going to do the clutches. Let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

 

thanks for the reps!
i just know it is cheaper and fast to just do the clutch.

 

To change the pulley you'll need:

A half-inch breaker bar to relieve the belt tension

An 8mm, quarter-inch socket

Quarter-inch ratchet

Internal snap-ring pliers

Small wire brush and brake cleaner to clean up the "snout" so things will slip on and off easily.

Blue LocTite
-----------

You may have to remove the de-gas tank to give yourself some more room to work, maybe not

Get things clean before removing the snap ring, as things will move easier

I wouldn't bother replacing the coil that comes with the clutch (unless the current one is already bad), as it's unnecessary work. Just use the old one. It doesn't even have to come off.

Be careful about prying on things, that's an aluminum compressor and that casting CAN break

Make SURE the snap ring is seated properly after the clutch re-install, and before installing the clutch plate

Be sure to use the LocTite, but only the last three threads on the bolt, and after you're sure the air gap is close. See: http://www.springerpop.net/F350/air_gap.html

Pop

 

Not sure if one exists for the 7.3L but A/C delete pulleys are pretty commonly available parts - just a bracket that bolts where the compressor lived and supports a pulley on a bearing.

edit: this guy might could work - for a 93-97 but I'm not sure what changes happened to the accessory bracketry...there's a post on PSN saying this one might work:

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-21806-34180.aspx

It's $30 from summit.

Also there might be an OEM ford idler pulley available for non-A/C trucks, #2 (snipped from this post by Blowby: http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...1&postcount=15)



ItemPart NumberDescription
1 19D629 A/C Compressor
2 19A216 Idler Pulley (Without A/C)
3 19A216 Belt Idler Pulley
4 10300 Generator
5 3D673 Power Steering Pump Pulley
6 8A528 Water Pump Pulley
7 6312 Crankshaft Pulley
8 6B209 Drive Belt Tensioner

reedit:

Ford P/N looks like **TZ-8678-AB, replaced by **TZ-8678-AC. $81. "mounts in place of A/C compressor, With A/C delete package, ENG.SZ.: 8, 1999/ 2004 ; 7.3, Ford 250 Series"

rereedit:

Found this on the PSN thread above - shoulda read further: F5TZ-8678-AC, motorcraft YS-261.

rerereedit:

$68 from rock auto, looks like this:



keep in mind that the A/C does play a role in defrost too though - not just cooling in summer.