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AC down - but which part?

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Old May 26, 2016 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
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AC down - but which part?

This happened near 2 years ago and I'm now trying to repair:

Just bought 79 Ford E150. 8cy Windsor
I was told in advance the factory AC no longer worked but he didn't know why.
So, driving down the road one day and smoke starts pouring out from under the hood. Turns out it was the AC belt melting on the seized up compressor. The whole thing has been removed since then.

So now I am trying to figure out... what do I have to buy (besides a belt. lol)? Compressor? Bearings? clutch? whole darn thing?
Not sure how to diagnose without it attached as most sites start with what's happening inside and that isn't an option now.

Thanks
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 04:55 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by mandi
This happened near 2 years ago and I'm now trying to repair:

Just bought 79 Ford E150. 8cy Windsor
I was told in advance the factory AC no longer worked but he didn't know why.
So, driving down the road one day and smoke starts pouring out from under the hood. Turns out it was the AC belt melting on the seized up compressor. The whole thing has been removed since then.

So now I am trying to figure out... what do I have to buy (besides a belt. lol)? Compressor? Bearings? clutch? whole darn thing?
Not sure how to diagnose without it attached as most sites start with what's happening inside and that isn't an option now.

Thanks
Hi mandi,
If the AC was not switched on when it blew then I am going to say the bearing locked up. If the compressor clutch wasn't engaged then the pump should not have been turning, only the pulley was free-wheeling on the bearing. Try turning the pulley by hand, it should spin easily.

If, however, the AC was on, then the compressor probably locked up. To check that you would need to hook the clutch to a battery to engage it then try turning the pulley. It should turn but it will feel some resistance.

The clutch winding may have come apart, leaving wire wrapped around everything on the hub. A clutch replacement may be all that is needed.

To get the whole system working, almost everything will need to be inspected. A new receiver/dryer is always advised.
jim
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 10:57 PM
  #3  
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Jim is spot on there about the clutch and bearing..
IF you want to fix the AC system, how much is your budget?
I have an 88 e150 and just recently bought all the parts to replace the system new except for the blower and dash controls. An estimate would be around $800 to $1000 for all the parts.
There are people who flush out the old system and that would be much cheaper but it can also leave contaminants in the system that might cause a new compressor to go bad.
Can you do most of the work yourself or will a shop need to do it for you?

There is a chance that it is just the clutch bearing and clutch coil. A bearing is around $10 and I am not sure what the coil is for a York compressor. You might also want to replace the compressor shaft seal since it has sat for so long.. That would probably be around $10 to $15.
If you need any new hoses it would be best to find a AC shop that makes custom hoses. they can use your old metal fittings and will replace the hose itself. The price in my area was around $60 per hose depending on the size..
You will need a new dryer around $15

You will also need to decide what freon to use, R12 or R134. The dryer will need to match the freon type..
I don’t know if your year has a orifice tube or expansion valve on it. I think older vans had the expansion valve and they are around $15

If you flush the system instead of replacing everything, you might want to install a “pancake filter” in the system.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/140918719128?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
It will catch some of the trash that might be left behind. I don’t know if it can be left on though. the instructions for my system said to run the system for a hour or so then remove it..

Well there are lots of great folks here that can help you through this if you choose to do the repair..

First would be to check the clutch and compressor like Jim mentioned and go from there...
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 05:16 AM
  #4  
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Anna you're correct about that secondary or pancake filter--its intended only for short term use. I'd leave it in place for no more than two days assuming the A/C would be used extensively during that time. By that time its done its job and should be removed.

Jim's advice about the receiver/drying being changed it also very sound. Some have a bag of desiccant that ruptures allowing the little pellets to circulate in the refrigeration circuit. That will lead to the expansion valve or orifice tube clogs and another loss of cooling.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 06:18 AM
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Amazon has the pump with clutch, reman-ed.
http://amzn.com/B000C2Q7CQ
And the receiver/dryer.
http://amzn.com/B000CZ342Y
Plus expansion valve.
http://amzn.com/B000C2QO1U

Probably the cheapest/quickest way then there is just flushing the system before installing parts and pulling a vacuum on it. jim
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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In a different post I think was in the truck section, Mandi indicated a $300 budget max.
I am thinking,, if the compressor is not bad, the AC might be able to be repaired within that budget.

York is still used on some tractors and perhaps a big truck junk yard might have a used one.. it would take some research to make sure it would fit.

Another thought might be a adapter to a saden compressor and find a used saden compressor.. would have to do some research to make sure you had the right compressor and what adapters it might take..
York to Sanden: Air Conditioning & Heat | eBay

here is one for $210 that says for Ford
York to Sanden A C Bracket Conversion Kit for Ford with V Belt Compressor | eBay

There is another for Jeep and sometimes they interchange. it is $163
New A C Compressor and York to Sanden Mount 9285 Sanden Style 508 Double Pully | eBay

If converted to R134 that would save a good bit of money. I have read that hoses might be a problem with higher pressure when using R134..


Some other thoughts might be to pressure test the system and see where leaks might be.. IF the condenser is bad, RA has a wholesale closeout for $50 that fits a 79 van.
Actually from what i have read, cleaning the condenser is a big problem if the compressor has gone bad. That is why I replaced mine.. I read that the evaporator can usually safely be cleaned.. but then again the flush kits are about the same price as the evaporator coil..

If Mandi's AC system is like my moms 78 E100, it is fairly easy to access. I replaced the heater core on my moms van in about an hour!

I have the York AC compressor from that van and it was taken off of the van in 1982. I am not sure if it works or not.. It might be frozen up for all I know.. Since the van was converted into a mini camper, my dad figured he didn't need the ac and would rather have the space in the engine compartment.
I also have one of the few bottles left of Motorcraft YN-2 York compressor oil for R12 system

A last thoguht for now.. Again a used compressor that has sat should have the seals replaced. I was also reading that if you convert to R134 you might need to replace the York gaskets to work with the R134 oil... I don't know how critical the gaskets would be.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
In a different post I think was in the truck section, Mandi indicated a $300 budget max.
I am thinking,, if the compressor is not bad, the AC might be able to be repaired within that budget.

York is still used on some tractors and perhaps a big truck junk yard might have a used one.. it would take some research to make sure it would fit.

Another thought might be a adapter to a saden compressor and find a used saden compressor.. would have to do some research to make sure you had the right compressor and what adapters it might take..
York to Sanden: Air Conditioning & Heat | eBay

here is one for $210 that says for Ford
York to Sanden A C Bracket Conversion Kit for Ford with V Belt Compressor | eBay

There is another for Jeep and sometimes they interchange. it is $163
New A C Compressor and York to Sanden Mount 9285 Sanden Style 508 Double Pully | eBay

If converted to R134 that would save a good bit of money. I have read that hoses might be a problem with higher pressure when using R134..


Some other thoughts might be to pressure test the system and see where leaks might be.. IF the condenser is bad, RA has a wholesale closeout for $50 that fits a 79 van.
Actually from what i have read, cleaning the condenser is a big problem if the compressor has gone bad. That is why I replaced mine.. I read that the evaporator can usually safely be cleaned.. but then again the flush kits are about the same price as the evaporator coil..

If Mandi's AC system is like my moms 78 E100, it is fairly easy to access. I replaced the heater core on my moms van in about an hour!

I have the York AC compressor from that van and it was taken off of the van in 1982. I am not sure if it works or not.. It might be frozen up for all I know.. Since the van was converted into a mini camper, my dad figured he didn't need the ac and would rather have the space in the engine compartment.
I also have one of the few bottles left of Motorcraft YN-2 York compressor oil for R12 system

A last thoguht for now.. Again a used compressor that has sat should have the seals replaced. I was also reading that if you convert to R134 you might need to replace the York gaskets to work with the R134 oil... I don't know how critical the gaskets would be.
Wow! Thanks for all this info.
 
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Old May 28, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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You are very welcome.. I hope it is just your clutch or something simple.. The only reason i am fairly well versed in the AC system is because I just spent 3 months gathering up all the parts for mine along with reading and learning how the system works. I hope to get mine done by next weekend... I haul people in mine fairly often and it is getting too hot in there! i hope your side and rear windows open?
you might try one of these fans. I had one and it worked really good.. I don't know about the plastic ones they sell..
RoadPro RP-1179 12 Volt Fan | 12V Fan
 
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