My truck just ate it's 3rd alternator in 3 years (1st was on the truck when I got it - maybe OEM?, second was from O'Reilly, 3rd was a local rebuild). I'm sure this has been discussed many times but I'm currently at work and don't have the time to search. Can anyone point me in the direction of a high quality high output alternator option? I've heard of DB electric, Mean Green, etc.... good, bad, others? Not in huge rush to get this done as I have another vehicle so would like to do it right this time, anything else I need to upgrade (wires, connections, etc.?)

Thanks,

 

Need to figure out what is eating those alternators up....Check your belt tension. You may need to replace the belt tensioner and belt. A loose belt CAN cause the alternator to fail over time.

 

I'm not sure I understand how a loose belt could cause it to fail? If it would loose the belt could slip and cause the alternator to not charge or charge intermittently. If the belt was too tight I could see it wearing out bearings, etc. faster. Either way I'll take a look at it tonight.

 

Why do you need an upgrade to the available output current?

The 6G OEM unit at 105-amps is usually more-than-adequate for the truck's needs unless you have a LOT of aftermarket additions.

Bigger isn't always better.

Pop

 

Some options I found over lunch:

DB Electrical - High Output

2003-99 FORD 7.3L DIESEL

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/vafproduc...rstroke+Diesel

6G Series High Output Alternator with Extra Heavy Duty Components


Any Opinions?

 

Not sure that I do, just figured if I'm spending the money anyway it can't hurt anything....All the typical sayings about "too much is never enough", "bigger is better", "overkill", etc. apply here.

I don't run a ton of accessories - some additional running lights, CB, in dash touchscreen stereo/GPS, amp with sub

My main reasoning is that it should follow that a higher output alternator would have upgraded internals/bearings etc. and therefore be more robust/reliable (I'm sure this is not necessarily true). By all means if you can point me to a well built stock output unit please do.

 

I'm running two brand new aftermarket alternators... a 165 amp unit from DB Electrical with an external bridge rectifier on my F250, and 180 amp unit from Nations Auto Electric on my Excursion. No troubles out of either after 1-2 years of running. If I had to do it again, I would go back with another one from Nations because it is a true bolt in replacement. I had to do a bit of grinding on the bracket for the one from DB.

 

would this be the right page for Nations? didn't see a 180 amp unit listed...
TAD High Amp Ford Diesel Alternator- Nations High Amp Alternators

Looks like Nations is also a distributor for DC Power Engineering

 

Just looked it up and I had this alternator rebuilt in December of last year, gonna give the guy a call and see if he'll work with me at all (warranty?) on another rebuild.

 

Yes, you SHOULD get more than a YEAR out of a quality rebuild! In fact, you didn't even get that!

That is, if it WAS a QUALITY rebuild to begin with, and not just "warmed-over".

Since this shop's local reputation is on the line, he might-well be "persuaded" to do it over, right, under warranty!

It doesn't hurt to ask him.

However, if you have lots of additional off-road lighting or something similar, I wonder a bit about his obligation, unless he knew yours wasn't a stock truck.

Pop

 

The 180 amp units have been up-rated to 190 since I got mine. And, yes, that is the unit.

 

If you're still on the fence about what to do, I've got a DC power inc. 190a OEM series in my truck that i've had for over a year with no problems, and i run high output headlights, foglights, 2 air compressors, and a thousand watt stereo and rarely see my volts dip below 14 cold and 13.5 hot

 

what are the symptoms of your failure? just not charging or bearing failure?

 

Well it looks like any warranty is out of the question, the rebuild shop closed up a few months ago.....however I'm not entirely sure I was on the right track anyway -
When the truck wouldn't start I just assumed the alternator had quit charging. "Timeline":
the battery light had been flickering for a few days (after start up, then would go away once the truck warmed up) - similar to the last few alternator failures.

Put the battery charger on when I got home from work, was showing 45 amps - thought the alt might have a short so pulled the hot lead on the back of the alt - battery charger dropped to ~40

Checked the charger the next day after work (~24hours) and it was showing under 5 amps - unhooked charger

about a week later I went out to start the truck to turn it around (figured the batteries should have enough to accomplish that) opened the door and had no interior lights - dead

The batteries in the truck are Die Hard Platinums ~2years old (DieHard Platinum Battery : Buy High-Performance Battery at Sears)

So either I wounded these batteries by driving too long without an alt and now they wont hold a charge or I have a short/draw somewhere in the truck - does this sound right? Where do I go from here? Take the batteries in or chase something else?

 

It's easy enough to get the batts load tested, so I would start there.

I assume that you've already checked your cable ends and lug connections to make sure there is not some creeping corrosion.