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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #16  
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I'll pull the batts and run them up to sears after work...that way if they need swapped I'm already there. Connections all appeared clean but I'll check them again.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenterics
Connections all appeared clean but I'll check them again.
.
You DO have one of these, don't you?



If you don't, your connections may not be truly clean, and may have a fine layer of lead-oxide on them.

Pop
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #18  
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There have also been reports of corrosion having crept down into the cable under the insulation, and it's just impossible to see that, but some resistance testing might reveal if that is an issue.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #19  
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Another thing is if the batteries are discharged too far, it will cause them to fail. Like if you measure them and they are 3 or 4 volts, chances are they will never be right again.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:27 AM
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Yup.

A battery "at rest" should never read below about 10.5 volts. That's the point it is almost completely discharged.

It is sulfating any time it is below about 75 percent fully charged, so the more-fully-charged you keep a lead-acid battery, the longer it should perform well.

Low voltage kills, prolonged over-charging kills, heat kills, low water kills.

Pop
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #21  
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I do know it's not uncommon for corrosion to creap up a cable, but, I have a hard time visualizing how that would cause a problem. My understanding is that surface conduction occurs mostly in alternating current situations. Isn't that right?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by lartross
My understanding is that surface conduction occurs mostly in alternating current situations. Isn't that right?
Yes, you only have to concern yourself with that with AC, and then only at much higher frequencies.

Not a factor here.

Pop
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
.
You DO have one of these, don't you?



If you don't, your connections may not be truly clean, and may have a fine layer of lead-oxide on them.

Pop
Update

I do have one of those and after pulling the cables all four posts looked dark (oxide) cleaned them up and then put a load tester on them - like this
both read "0" volts

Didn't have time to go to sears so I put a charger on one all last night and then the other all of today - put the tester back on them and it read just past the "WEAK" portion of the gauge on both of them so either they need longer charging or....

Originally Posted by lartross
Another thing is if the batteries are discharged too far, it will cause them to fail. Like if you measure them and they are 3 or 4 volts, chances are they will never be right again.
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Yup.

A battery "at rest" should never read below about 10.5 volts. That's the point it is almost completely discharged.

It is sulfating any time it is below about 75 percent fully charged, so the more-fully-charged you keep a lead-acid battery, the longer it should perform well.

Low voltage kills, prolonged over-charging kills, heat kills, low water kills.

Pop
Do you think these batteries need replacing seeing as they saw 0 volts for an extended period? They are AGM batteries if that makes any difference...
Should I leave them alone and see if they hold a charge disconnected?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:44 PM
  #24  
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I really don't know about agm, but, I think they will sulfate at low voltage also. You could try to "equalize" them [a designed overcharge with a specialized charger, which further reduces the life of your battery by causing the plates to degrade]. Really, I've tried all that stuff and really, it's a waste of time. Trade 'em in.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #25  
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Gotta agree with Larry here. I've tried to limp sick batteries along too. Just delaying the inevitable. One thing I always considered was if you did eventually get stranded and needed a jump, it's not like you can just have any old Hyundai to come give you some juice. since these vehicles require so much more in terms of cranking amps. For that reason, I've always erred on the conservative side when it comes to battery health. 2 cents...
 
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #26  
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Never had to deal with sears on battery replacements anybody know if they're gonna give me a hard time getting these exchanged?
Description states "Four-year free replacement and 100-month pro-rated limited manufacturer's warranty"
 
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #27  
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DB electric. Large case alt on my e99. Two new quality batteries at the time on installment. Lasted me about 16the mos. We has very little snow here in NH last winter, so i didnt even use the plow much. I use a winch occasionally. The regulator loosened up. I tightened it......got a spare regulator and its been ok again.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #28  
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I found AGM batteries to be quite a investment, I noticed the oddesy batt. specs call for a min. of 40 amps ,and no more than 15 volts 14.7 preferred ,when deep discharged,they claim most larger batt chargers put out to much voltage under higher amp charges.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #29  
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AGM's are definitely an investment. I've been running Optima Red Tops in my truck for several years now with a 165 amp alternator. I'm starting to hear a slower start than it had last winter, but am also still running OEM glow plugs and GPR, both of which I am seriously considering replacing to see how much difference that makes.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #30  
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Well had to leave the batteries at Sears overnight because there were not at 100% charge. Both tested "good" and thats all the information I was given. Couldn't be replaced or even prorated because the machine said they were good. Going to get them put back in and start chasing a draw somewhere when I get home tonight
 
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