Alternator
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Clinton, MI
So if I want to replace that cable, what size fuse? I'll be sure to check all my connections too
Wait! The alternator is the only thing than can produce a voltage above that of a fully-charged battery (about 12.6 volts), so the alternator must be outputting.
The red-hot connection is from too much current passing through the connection, but now we can be reasonably sure it isn't going from the battery to ground through a faulty alternator. The reason for too much current draw must be elsewhere.
I have to assume that all the connections were tight at the time (though charred now), but if that connection was loose (even a loose crimp between the eyelet and its wire), it could cause that display.
Looseness causes arcing, which causes heating, which (in your case) causes "light"!
Pop
The red-hot connection is from too much current passing through the connection, but now we can be reasonably sure it isn't going from the battery to ground through a faulty alternator. The reason for too much current draw must be elsewhere.
I have to assume that all the connections were tight at the time (though charred now), but if that connection was loose (even a loose crimp between the eyelet and its wire), it could cause that display.
Looseness causes arcing, which causes heating, which (in your case) causes "light"!
Pop
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Goleta, CA
Yes, you SHOULD get more than a YEAR out of a quality rebuild! In fact, you didn't even get that!
That is, if it WAS a QUALITY rebuild to begin with, and not just "warmed-over".
Since this shop's local reputation is on the line, he might-well be "persuaded" to do it over, right, under warranty!
It doesn't hurt to ask him.
However, if you have lots of additional off-road lighting or something similar, I wonder a bit about his obligation, unless he knew yours wasn't a stock truck.
Pop
That is, if it WAS a QUALITY rebuild to begin with, and not just "warmed-over".
Since this shop's local reputation is on the line, he might-well be "persuaded" to do it over, right, under warranty!
It doesn't hurt to ask him.
However, if you have lots of additional off-road lighting or something similar, I wonder a bit about his obligation, unless he knew yours wasn't a stock truck.
Pop
01, F250 7.3
PWRPROD
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From: Goleta, CA
I'm not sure I understand how a loose belt could cause it to fail? If it would loose the belt could slip and cause the alternator to not charge or charge intermittently. If the belt was too tight I could see it wearing out bearings, etc. faster. Either way I'll take a look at it tonight.
PWRPROD
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
The other alternator, if a dual system, is also 105 amps.
The large-case 6G came out in about 2003 or so, and is rated at 135 amps. I think it was available for the ambulance-prepped chassis at first. Its introduction may have been coincidental with the six-oh! engines, but I'm not sure.
Pop
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
Thanks.
Pop
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From: Goleta, CA
PWRPROD
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From: Clinton, MI
Well the post melted off the back of the alternator.....
I've been working to remove the charge cable (its really tucked in there and tied into loom) from the truck so I can make up a new one and ran into a snag. The cable connects: Alternator to GPR to AIH relay to Passenger side battery. Also tied into that harness is a smaller wire - what is it? and can it be disconnected and attached to the battery separately?
The smaller wire appears to be brown? and looks to have a fusible link near the battery post connection.
I'm also going to have some ground cables made up to replace the one from the body to frame and add one from bed to cab and alternator bracket to battery
I also forgot about some connections I need to clean between the battery and starter (see pics from when I first got the truck below) - those posts are looking much worse with a lot of corrosion and the key doesn't seem to want to turn anymore....
I've been working to remove the charge cable (its really tucked in there and tied into loom) from the truck so I can make up a new one and ran into a snag. The cable connects: Alternator to GPR to AIH relay to Passenger side battery. Also tied into that harness is a smaller wire - what is it? and can it be disconnected and attached to the battery separately?
The smaller wire appears to be brown? and looks to have a fusible link near the battery post connection.
I'm also going to have some ground cables made up to replace the one from the body to frame and add one from bed to cab and alternator bracket to battery
I also forgot about some connections I need to clean between the battery and starter (see pics from when I first got the truck below) - those posts are looking much worse with a lot of corrosion and the key doesn't seem to want to turn anymore....
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Nice, some one put a Cat power disconnect on your truck. I would like to have one on my trucks, makes for a great anti theft, unless some one knows where it is at and just jumps it. So that is on the starter wires? That is kind of smart...
I have a few power disconnects that I got from Harbor Freight that I am going to use for my inverter and power to my hoist, so I can remotely power them down rather then having them be hot all the time and leach/ rob power while the truck sits when they are not in use.Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch
I was thinking either that or a Perko switch on the power feeds. so I can have one switch.
I have a few power disconnects that I got from Harbor Freight that I am going to use for my inverter and power to my hoist, so I can remotely power them down rather then having them be hot all the time and leach/ rob power while the truck sits when they are not in use.Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch
I was thinking either that or a Perko switch on the power feeds. so I can have one switch.
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From: Clinton, MI
**SNIP**
The cable connects: Alternator to GPR to AIH relay to Passenger side battery. Also tied into that harness is a smaller wire - what is it? and can it be disconnected and attached to the battery separately?
The smaller wire appears to be brown? and looks to have a fusible link near the battery post connection.
**SNIP**
The cable connects: Alternator to GPR to AIH relay to Passenger side battery. Also tied into that harness is a smaller wire - what is it? and can it be disconnected and attached to the battery separately?
The smaller wire appears to be brown? and looks to have a fusible link near the battery post connection.
**SNIP**
It would appear that I could eliminate this wire and just jump from the two wire plug to the stud on the alternator with the appropriate fuse inline. Any idea what the gray fusible link is rated at? Also going to eliminate the AIH relay while I'm in here....
Last edited by rpenterics; Apr 8, 2013 at 11:36 PM. Reason: add picture
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Goleta, CA
Be carefull with Sears Auto. There testers are not always acurite and they have been known to fudge in their favor. Ask to see the test procedure in cluding any set up and adjustments to their machiene. If the teck refuses get a manager instantly. Battery does not have to be fully charged to show condition just CCA or state of charge. You are very interested in the condition of your battery. If you do get your replacements they will only do it once. Be sure that every thing in the charging system is 100% and working as it should be. This is why I buy Interstate. FYI same factory builds boath brands, just diferent specks. Don't forget that our two batt system requires boath batts be replaced at the same time. So if one is bad you still need to get boath. Sears probably won't do that, actually nobody will. If you don't you will kill the other batt in very short order and possibly an alternator.
PWRPROD
PWRPROD
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Long Island,NY
I had a bad battery that I bought at Costco. Knowing that I needed to change both at once, I brought them both back. I put them on the counter & said "These don't work any more." They pro-rated them & I bought two new batteries. Never had a problem using common sense at Costco.
I also used to go to Sears until several batteries died just at the point that it was just a little cheaper to get another Sears that go somewhere else. I've had much less battery issues in the last fifteen years since I got off the Sears merry go round.
I love this place where we can look out for one another & help a brother out. Thank you for all of the knowledge that you have so freely given! you guys are the best!!!!
I also used to go to Sears until several batteries died just at the point that it was just a little cheaper to get another Sears that go somewhere else. I've had much less battery issues in the last fifteen years since I got off the Sears merry go round.
I love this place where we can look out for one another & help a brother out. Thank you for all of the knowledge that you have so freely given! you guys are the best!!!!