Hey Donn could you post a diagram of how you want to wire in the battery disconnect that you choose?? You could save many of us some work by taking the lead on this. Unless of course it has already been done but I don't recall seeing anything about. What do you think about that Marv ??
How about it? I know we have a ton of experts ? If this is considered side tracking this thread , ignore me completely. I'm not a rude person.

 

If the CAT battery disconnect is an anti-theft measure, I don't think it will be nearly as effective as some other simple things you can do.

Look at it from a semi-professional thief's point of view:

You get in and there's absolutely nothing, electrically, going on. "Batteries are disconnected" is your very first thought.

Or, everything works but the starter motor won't turn over, you'll think, "Some large solenoid is not allowing the current to get to the starter".

Easy-peasy to look at the cables, see they are still connected, and then look along the path to the starter.

Either way, you'll find that CAT piece in under a minute.

There are other things you can do to thwart theft that are more effective.

As an aside, I got a PM from someone telling me that his home-made disabler likely saved his truck just this last week! He believed it was a professional, as they took measures to prevent getting caught, and after not being able to get it started, simply left without taking anything in the truck. Two broken locks, however, but they're going to do that anyway........

Even a simple kill switch, IN THE RIGHT CIRCUIT, properly hidden, will go a long ways to keeping your truck in YOUR driveway!

I just don't think that "the right" circuit should be the high-current one going to the starter motor. It's way too simple to diagnose and bypass.

You asked my thoughts........

Pop

 

I believe you miss understood me, I am going to use the disconnects to kill power to equipment I have installed on my truck, to kill energy vampires, and to not have my hoist active all the time.

On the guy I was responding to earlier it looked like some one had put the Cat disconnect in the power wiring between the battery and the starter.... aka no power to the starter.
I agree with what SpringerPop said about there being better ways to immobilize a vehicle.

I had thought about doing a remote start on my Excursion till I found out how well the PATS system works on it and what a pain it is to reset when and if it is triggered.

 

Yea, you don't wanna' do that!

I have a good friend with a 2000 EX, and there are a LOT of different things going on there.

It's even different to get the remote fobs re-programmed.

Whooda' thunkut?

Pop

 

Yup, but since I have my A.E. it's no sweat.... once you figure out is happening.

 

The disconnect was there from the PO, truck came out of Florida and was also wired for strobes...not sure of the reason for either.

Got the new alt. installed, put in all new 2/0 charge cable from Alt to GPR to Batt. - Also installed a 200A Mega "Slo-Blo" fuse on this cable near the alternator.
Added 2/0 ground cable from alt. bracket to battery, cab to frame, and cab to bed.
Also did some needed maintenance, oil change, fuel filter, and air filter. First glance everything seems to be working well. 12.5 volts with engine running and glow plugs on, 14.5 volts at idle. I will update with any happenings and pictures of the new setup if I remember.

 

Voltages sound about right.

The added wires on both positive and negative will serve you well.

Fuse is a very wise move!

Pop

 

I did a similar thing when I had to replace the Alt on my Excursion last month. I picked up a 200 amp alt for a 08' 6.4 It mounts up just fine with no clocking or grinding required. I added 4 guage ground and charge wire with a fuse on it. I think it is either 175 or 200 amp. I had all the parts to do it left over from my car audio days.

I did have to notch the end of the cable for the shroud of the charging post and drill out the factory charge wire for the larger post too.

It works and charges good when driving but I was unable to swap the larger pulley from the new alt for the smaller that was on the old one, since the new one has a smaller shaft size. It doesn't charge when you first start till you tap the throttle up 300 or so rpms to get the alt to activate. Then it stays charging, so I am looking for a smaller pulley for it, It was 170 bucks at Napa, so if I have to take it back I will swap it for another one, or just take it back.

 

I'm not-so-sure that the regulators in those alternators are compatible with our trucks' wiring.

Aren't the newer ones PCM-controlled regulators, whereas ours are stand-alone?

Pop

 

They all have internal regulators. I had the same question.

 

Yes, internal. That's where they are physically located, but the determination about voltage output is determined in different ways.

The regulators are determined by color combinations. The ones for our (1999-2003) SuperDutys are Gray/Gray, meaning a gray regulator with a gray "cap" or "cover".

Here is a reasonably-good (but not great) treatise on the various ones:
http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=18

To see some illustrations, see:
http://store.alternatorparts.com/vol...ulator-12.aspx

Do you see the one you have described as different from Gray/Gray?

Pop

 

Good info. I appear to have a 14.0 set point regulator in my aftermarket alternator the PO installed. I wonder what the stock alternator is supposed to put out. I'd rather see 14.4, like my yukon, but maybe there's a reason for 14, like less water loss or something.

Donn, how did you discover a '08 alternator would work? After all the research F350_6 did to get the 140A 6.0L alt. to work, your find seems a lot easier to implement, except for the need to upgrade the charge wires.

 

Bump........

 

Ok OK, so this is the part of the thread when I say that SpringerPop is correct, I had been looking around for a smaller pulley for this Alternator and not finding one, well I ended up sending an email to the company that rebuilt the alternator I installed on my X telling them what one I used and what I found and asking them for a smaller pulley.. this is their reply.

Please advise whether you have a 6.0L or the older 7.3L. So we’re on the same page, the spec for the pulley is 3.0” outer hub diameter, and 2.7” OD across the tops of the ribs between each groove. Is that what you received?

We’re a little puzzled that the 6.4L alt would work properly (other than the RPM issue), because the 6.4L uses a computer-controlled regulator and the 6.0L/7.3L apps do not. Usually, if you try such a substitution, the unit will either not charge properly, or it will keep the dash warning lamp on because of the “incompatibility” of the circuitry.

We’re going to try some experiments and see whether glitches develop. In the meantime, I’m hoping you have a 6.0L. If yes, we have a special 200a version of the 6.0L alternator – a WILSON # 90-02-5139HO, that’s available as a special order thru NAPA.


I called Napa and ordered the new 6.0 alternator, it should be in tomorrow. It runs around 365bucks for a 200 amp, I guess i will clock it and swap them out.

I replied to the email below.

My Excursion is a 2000 7.3 powerstroke. It has the same wiring connections, though from what I have learned the factory wiring on the 6.4 uses the center wire to regulate the charging and my Excursion only uses the 2 outside wires of the plug. My Mechanic had told me about this "swap" as an upgrade due to the add on electronics in the vehicle. I have ordered the one you spec'd below and it should be in tomorrow. I will be installing it since it will work as it is internally regulated not PCM as I have found out that the one that I have installed now is. I had questions about it and the guys on the Ford-trucks forum had said that it would not work also. It does charge once the idle is upped from initial start up. It shows it charging at 13.6 volts on my Fluke meter. I had added the 4 gauge fused charge wire to the unit, and also added a ground wire.



This was his reply,



Wise decision! The 13.6v-13.8v range is also the “limp home” charge rate when the (213-9738) regulator loses communication with the PCM. So, using the incorrect regulator in your “experimental” alt may not be allowing the normal 14.2 – 14.6v charge rate, and would not allow proper charging with any serious load.

Go with the 90-02-5139HO and you should be golden. You’re very lucky you’ve got a 2000 model. In 2002, Ford changed specs and the 2002-2003 Excursion uses an alt with a different rectifier (w/”avalanche” diodes for special spike protection). We do not offer the “avalanche” unit in a H.O. version.

I’m also glad to hear you switched to heavier gauge output wire. That’s very important. Make sure to change the value of the charging system MEGA FUSE to correspond to your higher amperage as well.

I found it interesting that as the email went on it was CC'd to other people in the company. So yes I have learned that what I did was wrong and I had a feeling that I would end up swapping in a 6.0 Alt.

Frankly I am surprised that the Tech support department took the time to answer my question, I will be using their products again.

(It was BBB industries that rebuilt it...)

 

I assume you still have the alternator from the 6.4.

It is easily converted to use with your truck simply by changing the regulator/brush assembly to a gray/gray (use the heavy-duty version). These run under $30, and are easily exchanged by anyone with a small set of Torx drivers (three screws inside) and little mechanical sense, which I know you to have lots of.

Pop