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My driver's side (power) window rolls up, but it gets slow for about the middle part of the path. The start and end of rolling my window goes about the correct speed. I'm assuming this is from use because I think the previous owner is retired military and we have to show our ID every time we come on base. I think it's the motor for power window, but I haven't had to work on power windows before and I want to make sure before I spend money on parts I don't need before I find the problem. Am I right on this?
Many time you can just remove the door panel and spray a clear silicon spray on the felt in the window tracks and it will fix it. They get dry and it makes it harder for the window to slide up and down. While in there, spray some white lithium grease on the regulator joints.
Thanks for the reply. I'll try that next weekend after I find instructions to remove the door panel. I'm pretty sure I can figure it out but I'd rather not pull on something I think is a pressure **** and turns out to be a screw I couldn't see.
I had a drivers window that would slow up in the middle of travel. I removed the door panel and found the rear window guide channel was installed incorrectly which caused the binding. The top of the channel has a permanent clip that slides into the upper channel for alignment. It was miss-installed by someone as the door panel had signs of being removed before. To fix, with the window up, I unfastened the bottom bolt holding the rear channel in and repositioned the top guide clip and refastened the bolt.
Something you might want to check before replacing parts. Good luck.
My driver's side (power) window rolls up, but it gets slow for about the middle part of the path. The start and end of rolling my window goes about the correct speed. I'm assuming this is from use because I think the previous owner is retired military and we have to show our ID every time we come on base. I think it's the motor for power window, but I haven't had to work on power windows before and I want to make sure before I spend money on parts I don't need before I find the problem. Am I right on this?
I didn't even remove the door panel, just sprayed silicone on the front and rear whisker tracks and if possible leave the window down for about an hour until it dries. Should be good to go after that.
I'm sure the suggestions above about lubricating and adjusting it are the correct solutions. It certainly is not your motor IMO.
But if the lubrication doesn't completely fix the problem, do a little experiment when you take that door panel off before you do anything else. Get yourself a piece of wire (16, 18, etc. braided) with some proper loop style electrical connectors and run a ground from the door frame near the motor to a good clean grounding point inside the cab (the lower bolt holding that dash on that side comes to mind). Then try it. I've said this before--I truly believe that the ground connection with the door controls on our trucks diminish greatly as time goes by. My driver's side window completely quit working altogether. I ran a second ground and fixed the problem (after a new relay, switch, AND motor didn't change anything). You may end up running a second ground through that door boot with good success.
Thanks for all the replies. I took sprayed the whole window track on both sides with silicon spray and it works like a champ now. All the hesitation is gone. This is much better than the $50 for a new motor that I thought it would be.
Thanks for all the replies. I took sprayed the whole window track on both sides with silicon spray and it works like a champ now. All the hesitation is gone. This is much better than the $50 for a new motor that I thought it would be.
Thanks again.
That silicone spray is only temporary. It won't last long at all. What happens is that the felt liner that guides the window up and down wears out. The felt actually wears off of the rubber guide and you have glass pushing against rubber. It grabs and slows the window or stops it completely. The only way to fix it correctly is to buy a new Ford window liner/guide and install it in the door. Then you will have glass sliding against felt instead of rubber. I had the same problem and kept spraying WD on it, that only lasts a short time until it dries out and wears off, usually just a couple of days. Fix the problem, not the symptom. That's da fact jack!
That silicone spray is only temporary. It won't last long at all. What happens is that the felt liner that guides the window up and down wears out. The felt actually wears off of the rubber guide and you have glass pushing against rubber. It grabs and slows the window or stops it completely. The only way to fix it correctly is to buy a new Ford window liner/guide and install it in the door. Then you will have glass sliding against felt instead of rubber. I had the same problem and kept spraying WD on it, that only lasts a short time until it dries out and wears off, usually just a couple of days. Fix the problem, not the symptom. That's da fact jack!
I know this is a pretty old thread, but....
You are absolutely right! I have the same issue on my 2001 lariat, and carefully inspected it to find the exact problem. You are 100% correct. However, on mine, this rubbing of glass and rubber has also created an additional problem. It has created slop in the window mechanism so the glass jams on the front edge. Pulling the glass backward releases the stress and it goes up smoothly. I will be permanently fixing the track as well. If caught early, I wouldn't have to deal with that, but I bought the truck with the problem already there. I did get a good deal on it though. I bought it from a funeral home for $3,500 in 2023. They used it to haul and place tombstones and it only had 80,000 miles on it and handles like a brand new truck. It has very little rust, which I'll be fixing this spring. Other problems it had, which I've already fixed are.
rear driver side door wouldn't open. (Very easy fix)
I hand repaired damaged seat upholstery.
I removed the carpet and pressure-washed it but ultimately ended up installing rubber flooring because the carpet was stained with bright red marble etching dye.
missing ashtray. Got lucky and found a replacement at "Wrench & Go" in DesMoines. It was broken, but all the parts were there so I was able to fix it.
bad starter
leaking rear windshield
electric doorlocks wouldn't function. (I bypassed the electrolyte contact inside the motors)
valve train ticking. (I replaced the roller rockers, inspected push rods)
Edge of wheel rims were broken to the point new tires couldn't be installed. Looked like it was curb-checked a few times.
and of course, bad coil packs. For now, I just keep a box of them under the back seat with a socket & ratchet, but I will be testing each coil pack to ensure they are not receiving to much voltage, causing over-heating.
otherwise, it's been a great truck, especially for it's age. 2001 Lariat
You guys are on the right track
This is the stuff you use
It is thick liquid silicone
That window track lube is part of a 30k service, it should last 30k miles before needing it again if you use the Ford stuff
I can't speak for the window tracks but my power windows were slow and I found taking the door panel off and lubricating the window regulator at all pivot points and along the portion it slides helped a ton. Just be mindful in the lubricant you used as my truck cab smelled like the spray grease I used for a few weeks.
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