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So I'm having some problems with my 95 I6 f150. I swapped my cluster to a new one ( so I could get a tachometer) left the lights on killed the battery.
Recharged the battery over night died within the day, bad alternator.
Fixed alternator, tested at auto zone works, but still the battery dies in a day.
Only thing i can think of that could have caused this problem to arise is possibly a short. I grounded the starter when changing the temp sensor on the block the same day
What model year cluster did you swap in? This is a very common problem. I think you need to use a 1994-95 cluster because of wiring differences in the clusters over the years. Using a newer or older version usually triggers this issue. I think subford has some info on this in the forum.
What model year cluster did you swap in? This is a very common problem. I think you need to use a 1994-95 cluster because of wiring differences in the clusters over the years. Using a newer or older version usually triggers this issue. I think subford has some info on this in the forum.
I got it form a junk yard, forgot the year. Everything works great on the cluster.
Do you think the new cluster could cause a problem with the alternator? It just seems it not recharging the battery thats the only problem I am having
Thanks for the help
Mike.
Yes the cluster could be causing your issue. The power for the alternator "exciter" supply comes from the ignition switch, through the instrument cluster (bulb and bypass resistor), then onto the alternator. The exciter wire, Light Green/Red, should always be hot when the key is in the On/Run position. This "exciter" signal tells the alternator to turn on.
I would start at the alternator to verify this signal is getting there, then work backwards from there.
Yes the cluster could be causing your issue. The power for the alternator "exciter" supply comes from the ignition switch, through the instrument cluster (bulb and bypass resistor), then onto the alternator. The exciter wire, Light Green/Red, should always be hot when the key is in the On/Run position. This "exciter" signal tells the alternator to turn on.
I would start at the alternator to verify this signal is getting there, then work backwards from there.
Alright so you think i should just swap my old cluster back in and see if it fixes the issue?
Alright so you think i should just swap my old cluster back in and see if it fixes the issue?
I think this would be you best bet. if it clears the problem then you know you had one that was not compatible.. Then you can search for the proper one, you need to know what year it comes out of, junk yards will tell you they are all the same.... Sorry they are not!!!
Edit: This response was assuming you had done the simple test you were given back in post #4..