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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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Heat shield mod

I notice that with my headers my carb gets so hot that I can't work the throttle with my hand! I was thinking of fabricating a heat shield out of a 302 shield. But was wondering if anyone has experience with this, or if it might be easier to wrap the header tubes?

Thoughts?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 11:09 PM
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depending on the driving conditions and what not...unless your headers are amply ceramic coated and/or stainless...it wouldn't be a long term fix to just wrap them. the wraps are pretty handy at the track keeping underhood temps down, but for the long haul, they trap moisture and promote corrosion. it'd suck to have those headers get pitted bro. just my .02, but i'd recommend investing in the fab time putting together a heat shield.

i will be running the HD exh manifold soon...don't anticipate too high temps coming off of it, but i might be putting something together anyways to preclude any issues. i'll let ya know what i come up with if ur interested. REALLY looking forward to hearing how it sounds!
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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check this one out brother...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...eat-riser.html
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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I wanted to post some photos. Thedudeabides posted the link to these, and Vincenthp posted the photos.

This seems a simple solution to to carb getting hot. I also noted that the mustang with a 302, early eighties, came oem with a heat shield for the carb.






 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:56 PM
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I sent the template out to the shop today. I should have it installed by the weekend.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 08:47 AM
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I got the shield back. It is nice and clean. I just have to round the corners and it will be finished. With the Autolite 4100 on a DP, the carb extends almost to the v.cover, so I made the shield that wide to deflect the heat.

I also bought an insulating 1/4" thick 4v gasket for the base. I'm waiting on the jets from Mike's to finish the carb.


Odd, but I found the 600 cfm autolite I have uses the same booster on the primaries as the 480 cfm.

 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I got the shield back. It is nice and clean. I just have to round the corners and it will be finished. With the Autolite 4100 on a DP, the carb extends almost to the v.cover, so I made the shield that wide to deflect the heat.

I also bought an insulating 1/4" thick 4v gasket for the base. I'm waiting on the jets from Mike's to finish the carb.


Odd, but I found the 600 cfm autolite I have uses the same booster on the primaries as the 480 cfm.

I'll be curious to see how it looks when you get some pics.

Is the Autolite a spreadbore at all? It'd be nice if the 480 and 600 used the same size primaries, just different sized secondaries to make up the cfm difference.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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Mike's Carb Parts?

I'm very surprised: I got my jets back today from Mike's Carbs. The first order I got from him were the wrong size, and were supposed to be brass; but instead were some odd metal that flaked on my fingers.

He was so alarmed on the phone (no offer of refund or making it right) that I wanted to give him another shot, so I ordered these jets from him. The secondaries were supposed to be .48. But I received one .48 and one .46. I kind of feel bad for the guy b/c on his youtube vids he sounds like an old guy. (But maybe everyone in WA is that way. That's a poke at Harte3.)

You know, apart from the wrong sizes, there were metal filings in the bore as though they were just bored to size. I don't mind that. I can blow them out with an air nozzle. But what I mind is the rim left in the jet orifice from boring from the underside. Now I am supposed to bevel that edge?

I'm kind of afraid to say anything. I don't want to upset the old guy, but yet I want good parts. Looking with a magnafying glass, I can see the tool marks.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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Poke away you wuppersnapper! LOL
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 11:27 AM
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Well, I heard back from Mike's. He is shipping out a new .48 jet.

However, after seeing the quality of the product Allstate Carburetor has, and knowing I would have to file/machine off the burr of Mike's jets, I think I am going to just write them off as a loss and go with those from all state, with the beveled orifice opening, etc. So I loose $20.

Thanks to Abandoned Bronco and Harte3, who have for years given me good advice. Thx.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Funny things happen...

Yesterday I had a problem that nearly caused my engine to explode, and left me with a burnt thumb. I installed the Autolite 4100 I rebuilt, and it has an auto kickdown arm on the throttle. I was under the hood doing some tuning. I revved it once and the k.down got stuck in the return spring. When I released it it pulled the thottle wide open. By this time the throttle was so hot I could not touch it, but had to fight with it to free it from spring. Rpm's whent through the roof. I finally got it, and realized that my 'heat shield' was useless.

I also found the shaft wobbled, causing v.leak, and making the carb impossible to tune.

Another problem: I'm getting the same problem of the fuel getting past the needle/seats when the bowl is full! It starts flooding the bowls.

It has to be fuel psi, although it is just over 4psi.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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What is the deal with fuel spraying past the needle/seats!? 4psi shouldn't have enough power to do that. Most carbs call for 5 - 7.

It'd be interesting to check out the results of your heat shield mod with a temperature gun. I got one off Ebay for about $20 and it's great. Just point it at something and it'll tell you the temperature. Who knows, may have been 250° and 175° after, but is still going to burn your hand either way.

But too hot to even touch the throttle? That's pretty hot under the hood in my opinion.
 
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