Another Header Question
Another Header Question
I searched so I know there has been a lot posted about headers. Some say Mustang shorties fit well but haven't found any statements on WHICH shorties. Haven't found a specific answer for my situation.
Plan is for a Windsor with 4R70W transmission in a '70 2WD F100 short bed. No power steering or brakes. Floor shift. 1 5/8" shorties would be OK if no long tubes are going to fit.
Anyone know what will fit?
Plan is for a Windsor with 4R70W transmission in a '70 2WD F100 short bed. No power steering or brakes. Floor shift. 1 5/8" shorties would be OK if no long tubes are going to fit.
Anyone know what will fit?
These are the ones I put on my truck, the po had some painted long tube headers that just plain did not fit (hammered/dented them in there) so I wanted a quick inexpensive fix... found these and the price was right for a quick cheap fix.. they fit great, easy install... Hope this helps..
SB Ford Polished Ceramic Headers 289 302 351W 5 0 Street Rod Full Size Car Truck | eBay
SB Ford Polished Ceramic Headers 289 302 351W 5 0 Street Rod Full Size Car Truck | eBay
Just fyi, they don't come with the collector.. i guess on the mustang they are a direct bolt on, so i had to get the collectors from my local muffler shop.. but for the price i could not complain at all...
That appears to be a great price. Think I paid $400 for Doug Thorley ceramic shorties for my Maverick. Should have them in a few days.
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When I get a chance - I'll do an extensive search on here about headers/exhaust.
But, some people have told me they don't like headers at all - that they're always causing problems, leaks, etc.
My mechanic said I'd be better off going with just a fairly low restriction dual exhaust & glass-paks.
Would these "shorty" headers be the ticket for my 1971 Ranger XLT w/360?
Actually, I'd like to go with the old style headers with the big collectors, and the thrush mufflers that bolt right up to the collectors - to me that's old school low restriction high performance exhaust!
Is there a certain (affordable) type/brand that would be good like that?
Thanks,
Bob
But, some people have told me they don't like headers at all - that they're always causing problems, leaks, etc.
My mechanic said I'd be better off going with just a fairly low restriction dual exhaust & glass-paks.
Would these "shorty" headers be the ticket for my 1971 Ranger XLT w/360?
Actually, I'd like to go with the old style headers with the big collectors, and the thrush mufflers that bolt right up to the collectors - to me that's old school low restriction high performance exhaust!
Is there a certain (affordable) type/brand that would be good like that?
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks
What you will find is with all the crossmembers in the way, there is no way to put a header muffler(bolts directly to headers like you mention) on these trucks. You need to snake around too many things, so you'll need a head pipe of some nature then a muffler.
Unlike the 1970's cars where the header is down below everything and you can stick a muffler right on it.
Thanks so very much for all the good info, guys.
Moving forward now.....I have now made the decision on my exhaust. I'm going to do what my mechanic originally told me to do - Have the guy down the street (top notch muffler shop) install a straight (true) dual exhaust from the exhaust manifold all the way back with 2.5" pipe and cherry bomb mufflers. It's $350 installed.
For what I want - this will be fine (and probably save me lotsa busted knuckles). I'm not building a racing machine, just want a strong running truck. Too many people have said it would be a real job installing headers, and there's always the chance they'll leak, etc. So, I'm back to "page one" and that's a good thing. I've learned a lot in my research.
One thing is that I have that extra fuel tank on the drivers' side (Camper Special?). It's not even hooked up, so I'll be removing it. This will make it a whole lot easier on Dave, the exhaust guy who'll be doing the install.
I just don't wanna jerk around with my shifting linkage, etc., and end up with a mess for an extra 2 H.P.
So, we're going with the Holley 4160 and straight dual exhaust. The quest continues!
Thanks!
Bob
Moving forward now.....I have now made the decision on my exhaust. I'm going to do what my mechanic originally told me to do - Have the guy down the street (top notch muffler shop) install a straight (true) dual exhaust from the exhaust manifold all the way back with 2.5" pipe and cherry bomb mufflers. It's $350 installed.
For what I want - this will be fine (and probably save me lotsa busted knuckles). I'm not building a racing machine, just want a strong running truck. Too many people have said it would be a real job installing headers, and there's always the chance they'll leak, etc. So, I'm back to "page one" and that's a good thing. I've learned a lot in my research.
One thing is that I have that extra fuel tank on the drivers' side (Camper Special?). It's not even hooked up, so I'll be removing it. This will make it a whole lot easier on Dave, the exhaust guy who'll be doing the install.
I just don't wanna jerk around with my shifting linkage, etc., and end up with a mess for an extra 2 H.P.
So, we're going with the Holley 4160 and straight dual exhaust. The quest continues!
Thanks!
Bob
My headers week no problem at all. They bolted right on. Torqued to specs. No leaks. I have never had problems with Headers leaking on FE engines. Now the exhaust manifolds, however, are known for it. My exhaust shop also charged $350 for 2 1/2" true duals from headers back. Sanderson guarantees their headers to fit and they do! Good luck.
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