A new question has formed...I admit that I don't know a whole lot about converting from 6V to 12V but I am pretty sure that is what this box anchored to the firewall does. The wiring in my truck is totally shot and spliced and taped, etc. I am going to order a new wiring harness and just wondered if this conversion requires modifying things or will the wiring harness pretty much work as is?

 

Finding very little info...I am sure there has been a thread about this before that addresses my previous post.

 

Can you show us a picture of this "box" you're referring to? Would be helpful...

 

My bad...I just looked closely at the box and I think it is an electric ignition box. Motorcraft on the side, maybe 4 inch by 4 inch. Sound right?

So now I am trying to find out if my truck has, in fact, been converted to 12 volt. My battery has two caps, I popped them off and there are six holes. Someone told me that that says it is a 12 volt. Anyone agree? I have an alternator but no markings on it or the compressor.

 

Each cell in a battery is 2 volts, so sounds like someone already converted it. Not to mention, I am pretty sure the the electronic ign. box didn't come in 6v .

 

So I am back to my original question:

If you just buy a new wiring harness for the truck, what will you encounter when compensating for the 12 v conversion?

 

Since it has a 302, it's a pretty safe bet it has a 12 volt system, at least for the engine/starter/etc.

The switch from 6v+ to 12v- isn't a big deal. If you're going to buy a new harness, get a custom set-up like EZwiring, Painless, or another equivalent. Many of the speed shops like Speedway offer their own, and other variants. Typically, the entire wiring harness will cost less than all the parts of an original reproduction, and will be easier to install.

The modern harness will have a fuse block and connectors to make the job fairly easy, and very safe. The only problems you should run into will be if you choose to use the original gauges. Even then, there are ways to step down the voltage at the gauge, or the sending unit, to compensate.

Edit: In your case, the sending units on the modern engine will likely be 12v, so it would be easiest to step down the voltage at the gauge. The starter relay (sometimes called a solenoid) will have to be 12v, but again, it probably already is, since you have the modern engine. You will also have to change all the bulbs, of course. Otherwise they light up really bright for a few seconds, then burn out. It's pretty, but a waste of good 6v bulbs.

Personally, for the money, I like EZwiring, but that's just my opinion.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

"UnderthebridgeJim" is our resident C-4 expert, check out this thread for a possible solution to your trans problem:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-c4-help.html

 

Doc's right on the money. Fix it and drive it. Tackle all of the little problems while the truck is still driveable. Once you start the big frame off resto, you're off the road for years. My truck wasn't in running shape when I got it. It took six years of work before I got to drive it.

 

What is the trick to getting the steering column out of the gear box? There is a collar around the base that I have loosened and everything inside the cab is off.

 

Why do you want to remove the steering column from the steering box? It's recommended to remove the steering box and column as an assembly. Pull the steering wheel, jack up the truck and remove the assembly from underneath after you have unattached the steering box from the frame and pitman arm. You also need to remove the plates on the floor around the steering column. Removing the assembly through the cab is possible, but may take some wrangling.

 

rebelwire.com has really good deals on wire harnesses.