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Just bought my first classic truck, a 1952 Ford, and have some serious newbie questions for you professionals out there. I have rebuilt and worked on a few newer cars, but no body work like this. Want to take the body off the frame and examine everything, was wondering if someone could give me some direction on the best way to do that....in layman's terms.
We can help you with that, but before you do anything, tell us about the truck. What's the story? Does it run now? How complete is it. Got any pictures. I HIGHLY recommend that you drive it at least for a short bit if it's running before you do anything. We've seen a lot of guys on here go out and buy a truck, tear it apart, and get terribly discouraged several years later because they've never even driven it.
By the way, welcome! I see you're from KY. What part?
It's a 1952, all primered black at this point. I did drive it around the day I got it just to get a feel for what was going on. I admit that I know a little about cars but I am definitely learning as I go with these classics. It has a 302 in it, duel exhausts and was sure fun to drive home. I smiled the whole way. It definitely has some transmission trouble...it will start in any gear and doesn't seem to have a Park gear. Right now, it is a little scary to drive too much because the brakes go to floor and it just barely seems to stop the vehicle. I found the master cylinder (thank you FTE) and added fluid but it doesn't really seem to help. I have no exp with drum brakes. Underneath the frame looks really solid and there is little to no rust anywhere on the body except edges of running boards.
So, the brakes and the transmission are my biggest worries right now. Somebody hacked a little to get the transmission in there and I would like to fix that while I see if I need a new transmission.
Have pictures on my phone that I will post in a bit. By the way, I am located near Ashland.
Great website. Appreciate the feedback. I have wanted an old Ford truck for a long time.
The transmission issues may simply be whoever installed it didn't know how to handle the starter lock-out, and some adjustment on the shifter.
The brakes going to the floor doesn't sound right. Four wheel drums are nothing like disks, but there should be plenty of pedal. You're right, you need to address that.
I'm with Doc, though, have some fun before you tear it apart. They're easy to take apart, but it seems to take forever to put them back together.
Oh, and:
Just kidding, I saw where you said you'd get around to it.
The drum brakes on these trucks are manually adjusted to compensate for wear. Lift the front end, spin the tire and adjust thru the hole in the backing plate until you hear the shoes rubbing. Press on the brake pedal to re-center the shoes, and adjust some more, until the shoes are dragging pretty good. Then back off one notch. Re-center, and check again. Repeat for the rear wheels. It's normal for them to drag a little when cool (not driving).
The diagram below shows which way to move the adjusting spoon.
Start with the radiator cap and then disassemble the nearest nut/bolt. Continue 'till all apart. Assemble in reverse order. That's how it is done.
Just remember to take lots of pictures. You would be surprised how handy they are five years from now when you try to get the radiator cap on and wonder which way it went.
Good luck and I hope you ave as much fun as I have had.
Started here
And here is where I am today
I'm assuming that you have already bled the brake lines and checked the condition of the wheel cylinders & lines. If not, that would be job one since 'ya can't go if 'ya can't stop.
Drum brakes are completely reliable for the use these trucks typically received. When more powerful engines and other updates are installed, many - not all - chose to go disk.
Good luck with the build, I am in the newport area if you ever want to get together to do some wrenching. Sounds like you are near a lot of the Eastern Ky members more so than I... But I will help as I can, I am only a few months ahead of you (or behind technically as you are driving).
Well, I worked for half an hour trying to upload a picture, to no avail. The pics are on my computer but I am only noticing a button that asks for the URL of my picture.
Anyway, bled and adjusted the brakes today and they seem to be working much better. Thanks for everyone's advice.
As far as the transmission, I have figured out a couple of things: 1) the shift linkage is hooked up strangely yet even when I took it loose, I still can't seem to get the transmission to shift up into Park. 2) the vehicles rolls freely forward or backward no matter what gear it is in. Can someone explain? 3) I have a picture on my phone of the numbers on the transmission [first line PHB BG2 C, second line D90P GC]...can someone interpret that for me.
With all said, pretty fun day. I definitely know more about her now than I did this morning.
The pics have to be somewhere on the Internet, like a Photobucket account.
Here's one way to upload pics...
Go to Photobucket and sign up for a free account. Then create an album for your truck. Upload any pics you want to post on FTE to that album. Have this album open on your computer when you want to post pics on FTE.
While you're making a post on FTE, select the pic you want to post from your Photobucket album. When the large version of the pic is open, right mouse click on it and select "View Image Info". The image info will be highlighted and will look something like this: http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ghtsafter1.jpg
Copy that highlighted info (right click / copy).
When you have the spot in your post where you want the pic to be placed, select the "Insert Image" icon at the top of the post (looks like a mountain) and paste (right click / paste) the image info you copied in the highlighted box (just shows "http://" when it opens).
2) the vehicle rolls freely forward or backward no matter what gear it is in. Can someone explain?
That's how automatics are. Without the engine running, to build hydraulic or hydrostatic pressure, the transmission turns free. That's why they put a "park" on them.
If it still rolls when in Park, the parking pin mechanism is likely sheared off or missing. It's easy to tell if its sheared off. Just pick it up and shake while listening for a rattle.
The best I can tell from the codes I have seen on the net, my transmission is a C4 from a 1979 Fairlane. At this point, I dont know if it would roll in park or not because it will NOT go into park...reverse is as far as the shifter will go.
Welcome to FTE. I have a 289 with a c4. Sounds to me like the shifter isn't adjusted right. To get it in park the shifter arm on the tranny must be as far forward ( towards the front on the truck) as it can go and it kind of has to be pushed with some effort to lock it in position. That's just the way they are, not like modern trannys. Your shifter is not pushing the lever far enough to lock into park.
As far as it starting in any position, again may be a shifter adjustment or there is no neutral safety switch on the shifter at all. What kind of shifter is it ? Modified stock or after market ? The neutral safety switch will prevent the starter from turning in except when in park or neutral. Take off the tranny cover and see if there are any switches comming from the shifter, if not, you may need the neutral safety switch.
I don't think there is anything transmission-related on this vehicle that hasn't been modified...from the shifter on down. I have taken the linkage completely apart and still the shifter on the transmission won't go into park. Obviously there is more to do with this transmission.
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