Well, I decided I would try to put all my information into one thread for now. Decided I would like to try and get all the cooling system maintenance and modifications into one thread since there's been a lot of random threads popping up. Here are my plans:

Cooling system flush with CLR and distilled water (using Senior Master Tech's method)
Refill cooling system with Final Charge ELC and distlled water (50/50 mix)
DFuser coolant filter kit
Motorcraft thermostat assembly
Install Fumoto drain valves to replace OEM block drain plugs
New Motorcraft block drain plug o-rings to use on Fumoto drain valves
IPR Research Gen 2 EGR delete kit
Motorcraft oil cooler
Install ARP head studs with Motorcraft head gaskets

Optional:
BPD billet aluminum water pump
BPD billet aluminum radiator
IPPR coolant filtration setup (100% filtration, not bypass)

I decided instead of using VC-9 or Restore+ I would go the route of CLR as it's more available and will do the same job. I'm debating finding another flush chemical besides Restore that will clean out the silicate goo and am thinking something like Prestone Radiator Flush would probably do the job. Final Charge ELC is available at O'Reilly's, has no silicates, and is SCA-free and comes in concentrate for around 22 dollars a gallon. Distilled water will come from Wal-Mart. I've read some people install the Fumoto drain valves in place of the block drains and am curious about this as well. It's supposed to make it so the coolant doesn't go all over when you're doing a flush, but I'm not sure how they work exactly or what risks are involved.

For the cooling system filter I'm debating just getting an inline filter to put between the passenger cylinder head and coolant expansion tank. It would be much cheaper than one of the bypass kits out there and perform the same exact job, just without the fancy filter block and ball-valves. I am not sold on the 100% filtration setup from IPR as it is hooked into the heater core and if plugged will stop the heater core from receiving coolant. It's probably a rare occurance but I'd rather be safe that sorry, not to mention the kit is like 300+ dollars. Also, I would prefer to just be able to replace the filter instead of having to try and clean it.

The EGR/cooler delete is a no-brainer for myself. We have no emissions testing in Iowa, so I would prefer to simply get rid of it, no questions asked. I just need to decide which kit to go with at this point. As far as the oil cooler goes I'll probably just put a new OEM one in the stock location. BPD's kit doesn't use the cooling system to warm the oiling system anymore, and that's a feature I'd rather retain since I live in cold climates. Also, the price of the kit is hard to swallow. IPR's external cooler kit is a neat idea, but has the downside of making oil changes more difficult, not to mention it ads a bunch of hoses and more possible leaks. It seems more geared towards the guys who don't DIY. I could buy 3-4 new OEM oil coolers for the price of the kit and I don't mind working on my own vehicles.

The head studs is kind of a no-brainer for the long haul. Of course I'll be using ARP's hardware and new OEM head gaskets as they have been shown lately to be better than the aftermarket head gaskets.

If you guys have any information or know something I may have missed for the cooling system please, let me know! I just want to try and get everything planned out.

 

Someone has to weigh in on this~!

 

question; What is the thread/pitch on the Fumoto Valves? 5/16" N.P.T.?

Best source to buy?

 

Apparent the part number is F-108N. I am curious if they're worth it or if there's downsides to them. I guess they help keep the cooling from going all over when you drain the block but I'm also worried about them failing somehow.

 

Maybe use loctite to put them in? Can always get them back out if you get them hot with a small propane torch.

Doesn't give thread size but;

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108N-...=F-108N+Fumoto

 

My only worry is the valve arm failing somehow. They would be very handy for doing coolant flushes as it would eliminate the need to remove the starter.

 

That's certainly one benefit, but I think the bigger reason for installing them is to make opening the block drains much easier during future cooling system maintenance.

I wouldn't be too concerned about failure of the valve. Lots of people (myself included) have been using these for a long time on oil pans and I don't recall seeing anyone mention a failure, and oil change intervals are far more frequent than cooling flushes.

 

Personally I wouldn't use CLR, but who knows, it may be fine.

Sounds like a good list to me. Probably any coolant filter decision will be of some help. The "EGR delete vs cooler upgrade decision" is a personal choice IMO, but some model years don't have proper fan operation without an EGR valve plugged in and my opinion is if you delete the EGR system you need a tuner to take that into account in the combustion controls.

I have had the block drain fumoto valves for over a year now. They are doing quite fine. Drain plug is 16x1.5. I used the O-Ring from oil drain plug part # 3C3Z-6026-DA

 

When I do a flush in the future, I will buy 4 gallons of Evapo-Rust at Harbor Freight. Drain and fill undiluted to the brim. Let it sit for 24-36 hours and presto not a speck of rust. At least that's the plan I'm going to use on my 1959 F100 Y block that's sat for 15 years.

I'm also sporting a pre-filter screen in my oil cooler cover that seems to be working flawlessly, time and miles will tell if it was a bad idea or not.

 

I wondered if anyone had done this before. Supposed to be safer than acid.

 

I'm a Rebel and like to try new ways of doing stuff. You can always use the Evapo Rust again and again for other projects.

 

I love to drive fast, but I love it even more when I have a lead vehicle up front.

Keep us posted on your long term results.

 

I've been using Evapo Rust on small parts of my '59 with excellent results every time. The only thing it wont do is free up parts that completely frozen from rust without a little heat. After 24 hours or longer, it annihilates any and all surface rust completely.

 

I know it works. Just curious how "careful" you have be using it.

 

Well the stuff stinks after a while. I don't use gloves. I'm actually going to try and brew my own with a jar of Molasses. Hours of lost time on You tube about it out there.